HOrnbrod

In a pinch you can use a male spade connector shoved into one of the unused fuse block female clips for a 12V connection. It makes for a pretty solid connection.

Classic? :rotf: Not hardly. Maybe here because we love them, but not in the real world. Never will be.

86-90 XJ/MJ fuse blocks are interchangable. Get one preferrably from a donor w. the auto tranny for obvious reasons. The only difference is if it's from an XJ that has the rear hatch wiper, but it still can be used as a replacement.

Most all the chain stores have pretty good web sites. Using this, determine the correct part number you need, and come in armed with it. This will avoid having to have the parts drone having to look something up and cause confusion.

If the flexplate that's cracked is original factory, the part number should be stamped on it near the center, probably starting with an 89. Anything there? It almost looks like the outer ring gear has slipped.

Hey, at least the dude is working and trying to earn a paycheck. Not unemployed and sponging off Mommy and Daddy and/or drawing welfare.

It's in the link James, except it looks like you need gauge tool gauge tool J-35853-2, whatever that is. Where you beem shipmate?

I tried this procedure on my 91. It's similar to the one in the FSM, but easier to understand. I got the valve shaft flat in the ballpark w/o the special gauge. My valve shaft alignment was definitely off. It requires the arm to be removed from the valve shaft, turn the valve shaft to the correct alignment rotation, then replacing the arm back on the splined shaft. The brakes are much better now. There are two entirely different procedures, one for the 86-89 models and one for the 90-92 models. Try it - it's worth a shot. HERE

Bf 109 and ME 109 = same aircraft. :yes:

For sure not a 130. Looks like one of the older Lockheeds though. You're probably right.

Well, spell checker worked for a few days, now it's AFU again. It works in all other forums and and email programs, everywhere, just doesn't work here on CC when posting. I'm using FF ver. 16. Any ideas Alexis? Guess you mean check the "Correct spelling as you type" box in Firefox? If so, yes that is checked.

No it's not. The He 111 was a twin-engine bomber transport. The pictured aircraft is a Messerschmitt fighter, probably a Bf 109.

Komanche comments: 1. Never liked the Bushwacker-style flares with the screw heads. Painted regular XJ flares would have looked better. 2. Don't like tacky diamond plate either. 3. Don't like the side exhaust. Duals out the back would be better. 4. I do like the overall wedge shape of the body but the roof should have been parallel with the wedge slant. It's sets too high in the back. Roof height is fine. 5. Don't like the front bumper. It looks out of proportion because its too large. Would I buy one with these improvements? Hell yes. :yes:

Boooo.

To determine unknown parasidic battery current draw using a multimeter : Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Use the 10A jacks on your multimeter, and observing polarity, connect the leads in series between the disconnected neg battery cable and the battery neg terminal. If there is current flow indicated, the meter will show an indication. Next start pulling the the fuse block fuses one by one until the amp draw decreases to zero (or near) on the meter. This will put you in the ballpark to see which circuit(s) are causing the amp draw. You will need an accurate schematic (preferrably from the appropriate FSM for your model/year) to find the point on the affective circuit where the short or partial short circuit occurs after the fuse and the device the fuse is protecting.

Cool. The very first NEW vehicle I ever bought was a 1984 Chevrolet S10 from this same Casey dealership in Newport News. Back then they were a combo GM / Jeep dealership. It had the paltry 2.8L engine w. 4WD. Jeep MJs were not introduced yet, or otherwise I would have surely bought one. I shipped it to the Philippines, and it served me well untill I wrecked it on a mountain road (goat path) and replaced it with an XJ. far as I know, casey is still thriving and going strong.

How many? The authentic chrome accented ones are the hardest to find in good shape, 86-87 only. Jim, sell Bo your tail lamps mate. You don't like chrome anyhow. :yes:

Agree. Sounds good.

:yes: Yes, but you are a knowledgeable smartass. Big difference. :thumbsup:

It looks great, but I have no idea of the resale value of Saturns. Y'all keeping it in the family, or going to try to sell for a profit? Seems like a buttload of lot of work for perhaps little return? Like I said - no idea. :hmm:

Forgive me for editing your post above Cody (in RED) but I assume this is what you meant. :cheers: If I'm wrong, let me know.

Good solid lift summary Alexis, and fine work as per your usual. :cheers: One minor comment though; M14 (or 9/16" dia depending on the year) fine thread were the factory size used for the non-standard HD U-bolts and long nuts on the MJs w. D44s and the towing package option. This size also does not require drilling out the slotted holes in the spring plates. 5/8" dia. U-bolts are kind of an overkill IMO and are really not needed.

Same rear window treatment on this ZJ-based pickup. Image Not Found

:agree: Don't be a clone. Stand proud.

Try this. Since you have pulled the throttle body, the TV cable is probably way out of adjustment. If maladjusted it will cause your AW4 shifting points to be all over the place. Takes no tools and about five minutes to do. 1: Push in and hold the release button 2: While holding in release button, push "conduit" in as far as it will go 3: Release button 4: Rotate the throttle pawl to WOT. 5: Hold at WOT for a few seconds, the cable should ratchet out a click or three. If not, the TV cable outer sheath is AFU. If it extends correctly, then.. 6: The TV cable should be properly adjusted. :cheers: