HOrnbrod

The poor Appy looks a bit sway backed. It's no wonder carrying all that weight around. Check out the astern shot. The rider's arse is wider than the horse's. Looks like an Alabama BUFF. :yes:

^^^ Most definitely.

I've heard this a lot. I don't get any popping sound making tight turns. I've tried to make the popping sounds with it. My D44 has new gears, new clutch packs with correct diff fluid and additive. :hmm:

Check your leaf spring and shackle bushings. Then get a 3' cheater bar and tighten the crap out of your U-bolts.

are now compiled and pinned in the DIY Project Writeups forum. Good stuff.

http://www.oreillyau...N0290&ppt=C0142

Forever BLACK Bumper & Trim Reconditioner. Lasts forever. NOT a paint, but a dye.

Killer deal if they functioned.

^^^ Ditto. The timer is the ECU and can only be reset by the stealer with the DRB-II.

Yep, that happens to all of us. Got to remember to K.I.S.S. first try.

Thanks. Was it a certain fuse, or the fuse box in general? Renix or HO?

Ferrari 456GT :drool: :drool:

BFH I presume.

Yep, when I grabbed the coil HV wire like a dumbazz. :eek: Made me dance a bit. I had a spare so replaced the CPS today and took a 50 mile or so drive, no problems. Because I disconnected the battery last night to clear the MAP fault code it ran rough at idle as the HOs always do until the ECU "learns" the new settings. Wish there was a way to speed up the process. She's running great now - hope that was it. :crossfingers:

I usually get the Mobil 1 M1-301 filters at Amazon. $8/ea w. free shipping (over $25), so I order four. I haven't found a better price.

Forgot about that one - will do. Thanks. :thumbsup:

My best "tool" is above the garage. Fully independently heated/cooled 24'x20' loft, bathroom, bedroom, w. Internet, satellite TV, and the all-important beer fridge. Keeps me away from the never-ending female drama in the main house. Gus the Cocker Spaniel lives here too and covers my back. :yes: Best real tool down below? My chainfall on tracks. Helps with the bikes.

Here's a list of larger hi-capacity oil filters that fit the HO 4.0L engines with the SAE 3/4"x16 thread. All of these have good ratings depending on which ones you read. I used to use Purolators exclusively, but since I've read in several places that they are now designed like the Frams, I've switched to Mobil 1. Approximate prices are shown. $18.75 for the Amsoil filter? No way........ Oversize Oil Filters (3/4"x16 thread) 5.178" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF2, $6.28 Motorcraft FL-1A, $6.49 Purolator L30001, $5.76 Napa 1515, $6.69 Wix 51515, $6.69 Baldwin B118, $9.26 Hastings LF115, $8.73 Mobil 1 M1-301, $8.00 Amsoil EaO15, $18.75 Donaldson P550008, $4.21

I wiggled all the engine management connectors I could lay my hands on including my self at idle, no effect at all. Since I had the fault code 14 I verified the MAP input and output voltages against the MAP connector ground, they were all within. I disconnected the battery to clear the reset the codes and just have the normal 12 and 55 codes now. Come to think of it, I never cleared the codes after replacing the MAP last month; wonder if that could have caused the problem?

Before I start throwing parts at the thing, I have one of these intermittent ignition problems that are hard to track down. This is mainly directed to those who have a DRB II scan tool like Cruiser. I can drive for weeks with no problems, the out of the blue while driving along sedately on level ground the ignition cuts off for a second, then immediately cuts back on. It cut off twice yesterday, the most it's ever done. I have a Unichip on it but have it bypassed it until I figure out this problem. Once I had a coil go bad causing this same problem, but I replaced that. I know all the things that could cause this (CPS, TPS, even the ECU, etc.). No codes except a 14; MAP sensor supply voltage too high or low. The supply voltage reads 5.2VDC which I think is okay since my FSM gives no voltage tolerances. No problems starting either hot or cold. I've also cleaned the connectors. Parts replaced so far: IAC, MAP, coil, clean throttle body, plugs, cap, distributor wires. My question is will a DBR II scan tool point out the problem? I suspect it would not because it a rare intermittent thing, but I don't know. The local dealer still has a DRB II. Worth bringing it in?

Actually open to closed loop transition on OBDI models (91-95) starts when the O2 sensor starts passing traffic to the ECU. Real easy to see if you have an A/F meter. This usually occurs in less than two minutes; or up to three on a real cold start. After the O2 sensor passes traffic to the ECU (not PCM, that's OBDII) full transition to closed loop occurs within a minute or two max.

Good to see the nitrous bottle and spare in there Pete. Never leave home without it. :thumbsup:

The rods are the same 84-86. However, the fuel pumps for 84-85 were different than the 86 pump. 83500873 for 1984-85 83502715 for 1986 Try cross reference the part numbers first to be sure you have the correct pump installed.