HOrnbrod

Do it. :cheers:

You shouldn't need any resistors. The ohm range for the Renix is 0 to 88. The range for the HO is (IIRC) something like 104 to 4. The substantive difference is the reversed polarity. You can fix that by tracing the two leads from the fuel gauge back to the plug at the back of the cluster. Remove the corresponding two wires from the plug and reverse their positions. That will not reverse polarity to the gauge, it only shifts the sender pot slider sensing point. To reverse polarity you have to do it at the sender potentiometer; remove the output lead from the + potentiometer leg to the opposite - leg at the sender. The ohm difference between the Renix and HO pots is negligible, but will cause a ~20% difference in the fuel gauge indication.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/15047-ho-fuel-sending-unit/

Yes, the MPG display requires OBD2.

Overhead ZJ (or similar) mini-console.

I'm sure he did it correctly if it's a reputable suspension shop. You will drop in the rear eventually, maybe up to an inch, so the excess rake will have to be corrected up front.

Thanks. Looks okay, but a couple of questions: Did you install the rear springs yourself? The proper way is to leave the mounting bolts front and rear loose, lower it to the ground with the wheels on of course, get in the bed and jump like hell to settle them down, then torque everything up. They might be binding as it looks pretty high in the rear, higher than the MT springs when I first put mine on. And if they are binding you'll sit a bit higher and it could wear out the bushings in short order. They will settle down some as all new springs do eventually, but you can help the process along by loading up in back with sandbags. It took about a year for mine to drop an inch with a heavy Leer shell on top.

Arch, when you get a chance, measure the distance between your upper and lower rear leaf spring shackle bolts.

My GS MT springs rode a bit stiff at first, but after they settled out about six months later they were fine. For rear shocks I first tried a set of Monroe Sensa-Tracks (they were mushy and didn't last six months), then tried a set of Bilstein 5125 series (like a buckboard) then the OMEs. There was no comparison, you will notice it immediately. Also went through the same cycle for the fronts. I did notice the rear sway bar stiffened up the ride some, but in a positive way. I'm happy with the ride and handling.

Once you install those OME Nitrochargers and take a drive and see how they ride / handle you won't care if they are pink or chartreuse. :yes: And if you go to 32" or even 31" tires, go with the WJ LCAs. Not only for the tire clearance, but they handle much better than the stockers due to their solid construction and larger bushings.

:popcorn:

I had an 84 2.8 S10, also with an O2 sensor. It should be an 18mm thread - try threading an 18mm spark plug into it to plug the hole. You might have to run an 18mm thread chaser first to clean up the threads. Any chain auto parts store carries these.

Eagle, good to hear from you. Looks like you're in for a bit of snow and wind tonight. A good bit...........

Yes, you will need at least 1/8" thick shims on each side. I have 1/4" on each side more than I had originally and it's right now.

You can get right at 1/2" total shim thickness in if the studs on the shim clevis are not broken off.

I believe the adjustable ball joints are only to correct camber. Besides I had new fixed Mopar ball joints already in.

My MJ has been feeling a bit squirrelly going down the freeway at 70-80 MPH for quite awhile now. Not terribly bad, but worse than I liked it. Since the lift I had replaced every bushing or steering/suspension part up front (new WJ LCAs, new UCA bushings, new Teraflex adj. track bar, ball joints, new ZJ steering box, steering box linkage, etc.) and everything was tight with no play. My caster reading at the upper ball joint flats read +4 degrees on both sides, so I decided to add another caster shim behind the LCAs. All I could find were 1/8" thick shims, so I threw one in on each side. The caster measurement went up to +7.5 - 8.0 degrees, dead on. Took her out and what a difference - solid at speed and on bumpy roads too, no wander or steering play. It made a big difference. Dealers do not stock the shims anymore, but aftermarket 1/8" thick caster shims are available HERE. TIP: Check your caster with an angle finder and correct it to as close to 7.5 degrees as you can. It's easy to do and it really helps the road manners. If your rig is 4WD, increasing the caster also increases your front drive shaft operating angle, not good. You'll need to experiment with the caster while watching the drive shaft angle, and drive shaft angle always has the priority. The Moog 1310 u-joints can handle up to an 11 degree operating angle with no problems.

What parts do you need on the below diagram?

Good to hear. Curious, were the new coils marked R & L?

How about Jon down in Gardendale? http://www.rpmextreme.com/Tuning-Services.aspx

We're pretty close. I'm at 19.5"

That doesn't sound right with a SOA unless you have modified the shock mounts. For a stock SUA MJ with zero lift the rear shock lengths compressed and extended are 14.375" - 23.000". What is the distance between the shock mounting pins when it sitting on the ground for your rig?

Old idiom: You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. WRONG! Very nice work Ben. :cheers:

No longer for sale on Ebay.

Agree, but all I'm saying is a bobbed longbed looks better proportioned overall. It retains the wheelbase of the LWB and has a few inches in the bed than the shortbed for cargo. I could live with that as a street truck when used as a truck.