jaekl

Let me jump in here. Stupidiy is in the eye of everyone else. Ignorance is truly bliss. When you don't know you're stupid, you're happy but everyone around you isn't, but you don't notice that either. Judging the person based on the poor grammer and inaccuracies is a bit haste because they really don't know they are wrong. Sure they may not have paid attention or purposely didn't want to learn, but typically, no one purposely makes numerous mistakes unless they want to portray themselves as someone who can be taken advantage of. However, judgement can be made to those individuals who after being informed of items like the fact that all 6 cylinders are not V6, get upset at the informer rather than thanking them. These people are just being difficult. If the concept of 'you don't know what you don't know' was truly understood, nobody would say 'if you don't know, just ask'

Is there a problem here? The issue of mixing ratios relates back to the transfer case having to deal with different drive shaft speeds. Tire circumference is part of the equation. I believe the the front of the truck travels the same distance as the rear but the wheels will rotate at different speeds with different sized tires.

You can feel even the slightest mismatch. I was running 205 and 215 tires for a while and it was a bit squirrelly on a snowy road. Not enough difference to do any harm. It just wasn't as comforting to drive than when the tires matched

I've seen it many times here. 4 spd and 5 spd have different rearend ratios. My stock 86 4cyl 5 spd is 2300 to 2500 at 55. My 4 spd without a tach doesn't sound to have excess rpm. Your 2750 at 70 sound extremely low for either box.

Don't overlook that stream he had to ford. A fully capable truck.

I'm confused. Is he trying to sell them or showing you why you shouldn't since they don't fit either XJ or MJ?

Sorry, my bad. It was a 99 Cherokee. Sometimes this typing, thinking, and remembering is too much to do all at the same time. Good thing I have to stay in one place when I do it.

OOPS, Repetitive. How was I supposed to remember that sight? It all occured after I left work and during the weekend. I don't have time to check this site like I have at work - I got playing to do.

I can't believe nobody has brought this one to the site ebay item #260388040874. He put together a 2004 Cherokee and a 89 Comanche. It's in a bidding war and already over $7000 without busting the reserve. It looks like a nice job, but the seat cracks me up. Considering the expected sale price, does it have 2004 buckets - no - he goes to the trouble of using a Cherokee rear seat and fabricated something to make it work and get this doesn't show a picture of the seat. Be a lot easier to fabricate brackets to use late model buckets. The rear of the box is a lot of effort too. It's all second generation XJ including the bumper. The tailgate looks like the bottom half of the hatch, but doesn't show it down. Most likely doesn't.

Come on now has anyone ever put the bench in a XJ? Should work if you have XJ brackets for a non rocker seat. Be a one of a kind.

I admit I didn't read thru all the pages - it's kinda of repetitive. But seriously let's put this in perspective. What's the issue? Don't what to get hooked into a discussion to only find out youv'e already read it before, but you don't want to miss anything? Picture yourself at a worldwide party of people with a common interest. Some come and some go and some just stay. Just been involved with a discussion on a topic. Then some of you walk over to another group and before you join in, do you know what everyone knows or what to know? Maybe you listen for a while and you either bring something from your previous conversation or you walk away. This is the nature of a forum. Nobody forces you to read everything. The searches and titles can use some improvement, but how many rules do you want to have. Do you want to fill out a form when starting a new topic where you check off predefined subject matter and whether you're just asking a question or adding information so that the viewer knows what he is getting into but would make it easier to search? Then the reponder has to define what type of reponse they are providing - clarification, answer, correction, more question etc. It sounds like everyone wants hindsight in the beginning.

I see a problem. What's the point of 4wd with horsepower. If the front wheels get stuck, just do a wheelie to get out. However, the rears will be in the same spot shortly with the nose in the air. Any attempt to apply power will result in another wheelie. Oh yeah, that's sarcasm.

That new "As seen on TV" tool really only works for screws that lost their heads. It's not going to do much for a bolt where you ruined the head because it was a seized bolt.

Isn't it great to be handy? The beauty of being an owner mechanic. You repaired only what was worn, used less resources, honed your skills, and had a constructive past time. It would never work as a pro doing it to a customer car. Sometimes with this approach it's a fine line between a real repair and a haywire patch but this look thorough. The only questionable area is what cause the piston to increase in size and will the rate accelerate so the next time will be in 15 years. It's good to hear there are still people who approach a problem this way rather than always throwing parts at it. It's a personal choice of course.

Peanut butter is a common trick with the middle schoolers. Yours sounds higher. Spreading the force is the theory with the PB. Maintaining even force on the egg may do it, but a collapsable shell reduces the impact and decreases the deccleration.

You don't have to reset the switch since it is still floating and sensing different pressures between front and rear as it should. The feel of the brakes with the brakes applied will tell you alot. You should be able to do it with one side off the ground and then try to rotate the wheels at your different pedal positions. That will tell you if the front or rear are working and when. I suspect you got some air into the rear emergency line. There is a procedure to bleed it and hopefully someone who has done it can jump in, but it could also be a failure of the master cylinder. Sorry to hear about your funeral, but the sarcastic comment is for my earlier post about the picture of the truck on it's side. For everone's information, I was not serious. When you realize how little force there is on that prop with the truck at the angle, you'll know how dangerous it was.

Okay, now I'll try to be serious and not sarcastic. Something moved the brake failure plunger. Could have been a failure in the front or the rear. The 'pop' probably was when it moved and the light came on. You need to tell us if the truck is pure stock with the original hardware like the rear height sensing valve and the Comanche proportional valve where the brake failure switch is. If it is modified, who did it? Previous owner? In the meantime pump the brakes and hold while someone checks to see if all wheels are locked. Does the pedal hold or does it leak down while you hold it? I suspect once you fixed the front brakes another failure showed up. Until the brake failure switch is reset you don't know what the brake system is doing especially if it had been modified.

They climb mountains because they are there. Others complete projects because they can. You feel great about your accomplishment and want tell people about it but they don't think much about it. (This is where forums come in to find someone who understands) It made sense to you, you exercised/developed your skills, and you didn't cause anybody any harm. You saved a good item from the trash and may or may not have spent more resources to fabricate your solution,but that doesn't matter. You did it because you wanted to, for your own reasons. The important part is you completed it, it looks good, and you can use it.

People still make those offers? It's a shame you can't make a living doing it. There are those wanna be people that have a dream of having a older car rebuilt but they have no skill, desire, or money to do it, but have an 'angle'. They find someone who likes doing it as a hobby and approaches them with the 'deal'. I'm not saying it is a bad thing. It's just comes with the territory when people find out you are a 'wrencher'. Just go in it with your eyes open and expectations clearly understood and agreed upon. The odds are equal to have a positive experience as a bad one. Bartering can easily create some hostile relations. Money has an established value. There is alot of room for interpretation with bartering.

It would only be stupid if a welding spark gets him and he jerks back forgetting the prop was behind him and he knocks it out. See the shadow - he has a spotter - who doesn't want to be identified in the picture and is standing safely away in case something happens - some spotter! What cracks me up is he took the time to clean up all of the equipment to lift the truck, or his buddy is using that for his project. You wouldn't want all the blocks and jacks lying about, you might trip over them and fall and you thought he wasn't concerned about safety. A clean worksite is a safe worksite. He even chocked the wheel. Also notice the angle of the prop is such that it wouldn't slip where it hits the truck. He's really thinking here. You know how you are doing a short repair and then do something stupid and it turns into a much bigger job. He took precautions here. If the prop was square to the ground but angled to the truck and slipped out, it could possibly cause damage to the truck (or the prop)and that would have ruined his day because now he would have more work to do - if he survived that is.

Don't rely on the accurancy of the answer. I'm getting the impression that it just randomly assigns a name from a predefined list when it encounters a new input name, but then adds that definition for future use so you always get the same answer.

That's better than my 86 with a 85 gauge cluster in it. The warning light is instantaneous and starts flashing with the sloshing fuel with half a tank. While the 88 with a 88 5/6th cluster starts coming on at the last quarter if the float falls long enough to make it think it is down to 2 gallons.

You must make sure the cables are moving freely. Then continue to adjust until you have just enough to hold for reverse. You will still have to push all the way down to get full braking but they won't rub when off. Drum brakes can have a leading and a trailing shoe. Our brakes are symetrical so there is always one leading shoe for either direction. Some shoe sets have shorter harder lining on the leading shoe, but every set I've bought in my years have been unmarked and identical. Therefore they should work in both directions but it is so easy to have slippage in reverse. I don't know why. Perhaps the parking brake leverage prevents the leading shoe to dig in. As far as drum verus disc brakes, I see drums as the the better design. (if it weren't for the fade) Think about it. Disc require much higher forces which require beefier components, bigger piston - more fluid displacement - higher capacity master cylinder. Drums use the rotation of the drum to increase braking force (leading shoe) and springs to pull the shoes off the friction surfaces. Ther must be a limit as to how much performance can be developed with drum brakes which necessitate the move to discs. Drums are a carry over from wagon days with a block on the wheel and could be done with mechanical leverage. There are mechanical disc brakes on smaller equipment, hydraulics are required to get the higher forces required to get the better performance. This is contrary to good design but seems to be the necessary approach. Of course heat dissipation is a good thing.

Through the production run the 2.5L made some significant improvements. You should be glad you don't have a 84 or 85 set up. (XJ) Compared to a 86 throttle bottle the carb versions is terrible. Then in 87 they squeezed a bit more out and my 88 is noticeably different than my 86. Perhaps as a minimum you might be able to retro yours using a later model donor. Renix era probably fairly easily but MOPAR era would require a total swap. Does anybody have a list of the changes required to turn a 86 2.5L into a later one?

Looking at the schematic the vacuum routing to the switch is not complete until the CAD is fully actuated. Basically, it's vacuum to the transfer case where you select vacuum to connect the right axle shaft of disconnect it. That's the three tubes to the selector. Then the two output tubes (on or off) go down to the axle to move the dog clutch where you want it (on or off). The third tube from the axle goes up to the light switch. At the right fender well is the switch and a couple of check valves and a vent. If you want to keep it, ensure you have vacuum to the selector, make sure you have vacuum for on and off to the axle and make sure the CAD actuates with vacuum. If all of that works, then all of the problems are at the right fender well and need to be fixed or patched. Once you start looking at it and thinking about it, it becomes obvious how it works and what needs to be fixed.