AeroNautical

I've got it in the freezer now, just hoping that'll help a bit. Thanks.

clean, smooth, rust free. I did get the bushing in slightly, but it was very slightly crooked. When I pulled it out I could see it was etched a bit off. I didn't even have this much trouble taking the bushing and bearing off, haha.

3 hours of wasted effort, I can't get this bushing in for crap. How did you align it perfectly enough to go in?

Out with the old:

I had pumped it several times, so when I checked it was empty. Once I got it home, I refilled it and pumped again to find the bottom of my bell housing pouring out brake fluid, which confirmed my internal slave went boom.

He has a point, they are very rare. Someone I know just happened to come across a factory long bed roll bar, but he cut it down and put it on his short bed. Told me it took him 10 years (yes, ten) to find one. He owns a 92 he drove off the lot himself that came with one, think he said it was stolen right off the back of the truck.

Happy to report it all went well thanks to your suggestions. Soaked the bolts in pb blaster, used that bolt freezer, etc. None of the bolts were rusted, but they were torqued so tight I almost broke a breaker bar trying to get one off.

I honestly try to use the search, but maaan, it sucks. I'm doing a tranny swap, in order to do this I need to remove the section of exhaust pipe that runs from the manifold to the catalytic converter. I'm terrified to do this, however. There is no rust, but the bolts connecting it to the manifold seem rough and brittle, not surprising considering the heat they put up with. I REALLY don't want to snap it, because an exhaust leak would stop my MJ dead in the water. My questions are: Are these bolts, or studs? How can I somewhat safely remove them, PB blaster can only do so much. I figure if they are bolts, they can be replaced, but studs.... I hate them with a passion.

That is pretty awesome, especially since it's the only tool brand I use on my MJ... Well, that and pittsburgh, the cheap off brand at Harbor Freight, haha. can't beat it when you need a tool once or twice, but don't want to spend top dollar.

She's in, and was convinced at the last minute to go SOA by an avid comanche fan, who happen to also be the welder. Gonna get shock mount brackets welded onto the axle, but this will do for now. She sits a little high, I'll put in XJ shackles until I can get bigger tires.

Looks like it. I had a ride-along field mouse in my MJ for awhile after I bought her. It took out all of my interior electrical, and left piles of mouse turds and pee everywhere. I put a "mess free" trap in my glovebox, as it seemed to be a high traffic point for it, with some peanut butter. Also didn't want to poison him and have him die behind my dash. Next day the little bugger was almost split in half in my glovebox. Talk about an effective trap. I couldn't even find all the damage it had done for at least 6 more months, plus, ripping out the interior and dash to clean mouse pies is not a fun project. Word of advice: FIND THAT BUGGER! FIND IT NOW!!

Started the D35 to 29 spline 8.25 swap:

I just wish I knew this when my internal blew up in an intersection. Might not have gotten myself home, but could have atleast pulled it aside.

15 with that much weight AND climbing a mountain? That's incredible. I think my average with no load on the highway is about 19 or 20, don't ask me how.

Not bad, shame I can't justify buying it right now. Someone needs to jump on it, before a scrapper does.

The efficiency only a nuclear reactor could get, hahaha.

Awesome amounts of help, thanks. I have another question, however. This weld job is a bit out of my league, so I'm taking it to a shop. Once I find pinion angle, what do I tell them? I figured it'd just be easier to give them the 8.25 AND my D35 and say mirror it. But if the pinion angle is different between the 2 axles, obviously that won't work.

Glad to hear it, brother did that disc swap on his 8.25 so I'll just get him to do it, haha. Plus, with 31x10.5 tires, I doubt this axle will ever come close to snapping. I've got a dana 35 in it now, if I take it out and just mirror the perches from it to the 8.25, I'd imagine it'd measure out perfectly, right?

Believe me, I kept my eye out for 8.8s. All the ones I found nearby either were geared wrong (3.07), missing axle shafts or just asking way too damn much. I'm getting a good deal on this 8.25, it's geared the way I want it and I've heard they are near D44 strength anyway. Don't the perches have to be rewelded on an 8.8 also?

I'll be picking up a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 axle this sunday, but it's off of a cherokee. Does anyone have the specific measurements for rewelding the perches to MJ SUA? What about driveshaft length with an ax15 and 231 combo, 3 inch lift short bed? Any writeups for a disc brake conversion using a grand cherokee? The search function is honestly hit or miss most of the time, and I got no hits for any of these.

If i understand the procedure correctly, there is a pilot bearing that should have come with your clutch kit. It has roller pins and an o-ring inside it, and slides into the crankshaft. The pilot bushing goes on the input shaft of the tranny. So you should have 2 parts, the pilot bushing and bearing. Was there not a bearing on either cherokee when you removed the tranny? Correct me if I'm wrong, this is just how I've come to understand it.

Awesome, thanks for the help. This really did answer all my questions.

I didn't want to cut it because I still need that hole. Glad I can remove it, but what about threading the rear hole? Bolt strength? Cutting into a unibody doesn't exactly seem like the best idea, haha.

I'm doing a pukey to ax15 swap, but am using the same cross member. I have a 1 inch t-case drop kit, so I'll need new bolts. The issue I'm having lies in two places. The stud that's in the frame, is it threaded or actually part of the frame? If it is threaded, the easiest way I'd imagine to remove it is to get 2 nuts to lock onto each other and just wrench it out. Next question is the third hole in the rear is not threaded. Since the cross member is moving back to that hole, what would be the best way to thread it? I've never threaded metal holes before, I don't want to mess it up. The bolt I removed already also has markings on it that don't fit sae or metric measuring. It looks like a crucifix with a number 2 below it. I'd guess it was grade 2, but that seems weak for a bolt that holds the tranny to the frame. Any help is appreciated.

That is exactly how it is done....mine lived through the 3 months and still has the same starter....still going strong Really? I had no idea those starters could take that kind of abuse, that's good to know! Hell of alot of torque out of that little motor.