AeroNautical

I got mine off of a 98 ZJ, and it came with the spacer. You do not want it, if you use it, it'll push the booster too far out and your brake pedal will appear to be pushed in, plus you won't be able to depress it enough to get full braking force. This is my experience, best bet to be sure is to measure the length of your old booster rod and the rod of the new one. If the old one is longer than the new one with the spacer attached, remove the spacer. Watch this video, it'll answer all your questions and show you exactly how do install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPL2ZqcDQoY&index=3&list=FLN4Z-G7MrQnP3ha7tBtn4Ww

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/home.do They've got good prices as it is on rims and tires, will match anyone elses offers if you find them lower, and when you order them they are usually at a local store the next day, free shipping.

Eh, never fix what isn't broken. My old booster was just about shot, and I got the newer valve cover when the lines to my stock renix one broke, and I didn't realize at the time they sold entire vacuum harness kits for it. My cooling system works like a champ. Sitting in traffic in the dead of summer near or at 100 degrees, all I have to do is flip my secondary fan on and my temp doesn't hardly approach 200. Heat blasts hot, too. I was gifted with an MJ that the PO took care of in regards to the cooling system.

This is a VERY unfair comparison, because the first photo does not show an undisturbed C101. It shows a rat's nest of loose wires after someone has ripped them out of the C101. Cmon man, it wasn't meant to be a fair comparison. People who have a c101 know what it looks like undisturbed, I just wanted to be a bit more dramatic with the comparison shots.

To go from this: To this: Is worth it alone, in my opinion. Cleans it up nicely.

On my list before this trip is to get my front bumper, possibly my winch and another track bar. Oh yeah, and the time off from work I most likely won't get. Go figure. Glad to hear your stroked rig is back on the road. Did you get the locker in?

Gotcha, and it did start up quicker. I used a 3/8 drill bit, but it had a flange on the end of it a bit larger than the body of the bit (concrete bit?). I'm not sure, but it's all I had in that size, and it made the hole a bit bigger than what your list calls for. Maybe that's why I've got a higher output.

I have now, made the hole bigger and advanced the timing. Its putting out .9 ac volts now, and i havent had a no start yet. What does advancing the timing benefit?

Hmm, now I'm getting consistent no starts. I know it's not the harness, because I was getting non consistent no starts before the upgrade. It's a new CPS, but the first thing I noticed was the wires for the new CPS versus the old one were considerably smaller. I also tested the ac voltage of the new one and it's getting .4, I remember reading in your tips that .35 is a no start. It was a cps from rock auto, I guess I should have just gotten one from napa. Thoughts?

Edit: Withdrawn. I had made a new grounding harness for the sensors, and when I had it connected the idle went up. Disconnected it and all is fine. I've never seen anything electrical reject a better ground before, haha.

Well, checked 3 times and all the connections are correct and soldered together. Went to start the engine, hoping for the best, expecting an engine fire. It starts up just fine, but it jumps to 2500 rpm, and slowly rises. I'm sure if I let it run it would redline itself eventually. I checked the TPS voltage to make sure it's adjusted properly, good to go. Any idea what it could be from that bundle of wires?

I've started on the c101 elimination, but I've got 4 wires that don't lead to the other side of the connector, and 1 that does, but has different color wires on each side. Is this correct? I figure the extra wires are for accessories I don't have.

Here's the tubing: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=586586&cc=1181584 And the Grommet: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=14900&cc=1181584 Also, is this a 2.5 or 4.0? I'm not sure it makes a difference with the CCV line, but if it does, those links are for the 4.0.

Hmm, I hope it's just the c101 causing bad readings, then. I installed a brand new O2 sensor a few months ago, and they aren't cheap.

That makes sense, didn't think about that. The butterfly is adjusted and the TPS readjusted to your specs. It runs cold at about 600 and warm at about 800 now, occasionally hitting 1000, but usually coming back down. It still hunts a little, but that's a separate issue I have to figure out. As always, thanks cruiser. I'll be running through your list again soon to eliminate my c101 and adjust my CPS timing.

I'm trying to help a buddy find an MJ as a DD. Craigslist isn't giving many good results, so what better place to ask then here? The criteria are: 4.0 Engine 2 or 4wd Auto preferably, manual acceptable Long bed preferably, short acceptable 87 or later Rust free where it counts (floor, frame) It can't be a project, he doesn't have the know how, time or money to be fixing it up. In North or South Carolina, the closer to Charlotte, the better. Paint is a non issue (rattle cans are cheap) Minor issues are fine, I'm here to help him out if something doesn't work right. I won't say the price point, but it's very reasonable for a stock or slightly modded truck. Let me know what you've got, thanks.

That sounds awesome, I'm sure the hardest part for all of us is getting that time off, though. Being over a month out, might give enough time for some leeway.

This post was kind of abandoned for this one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40139-north-carolina/page-4 They actually already had a meet n greet in concord, unfortunately I wasn't able to go. It's about time we get another date to gather and BS about Mjs, haha.

You have to be a member with them, contact Pete about it. He goes through every so often asking if people want a membership through CC to get the 10% off.

A 35 with all that extra leverage? I'd imagine hitting a pot hole too hard would snap the axles.

I adjusted the butterfly, now the engine almost stalls when I put my finger on the idle bypass. It lowered the idle, temporarily. I can start it cold and it'll be at 700, but when it's warm and I apply throttle and release it, it goes right back up to 1100. It seems to me the computer is compensating incorrectly. If it were a leak, the idle would always be high, wouldn't it?

With how often these duallies have been popping up recently, it's as if they came from the factory like that. Did they?

I have not tried that, I figured since my idle was good until recently the butterfly valve was in a good spot, but I'm desperate right now. I'll give it an adjustment tomorrow. Thanks for bearing with me, cruiser.

Yeah, no doubt. When I start it, it jumps to 2000 and (when cold) comes back down to 800, or when warm it jumps to 2200 and falls to 1200. It all started when I put the new EGR in, but maybe that's just a coincidence. Something is sucking air in, and I've sprayed carb cleaner everywhere to get a spike with nothing. It hunts a bit when it's cold, too.

Alright, plugged it with my finger and it barely made a difference, lowered the idle just barely. Also started with the TPS disconnected with no difference, though I was surprised that the engine would rev without the TPS connected. Doesn't that tell the engine how much fuel it needs?