pantera1973

Wow, a Pegaso!! That was an exotic! You don't happen to have any photos do you; I've never seen one in public. :)

Thank you. :) It is a 1973 model. It has the 351 Cleveland; all 71-88 Panteras came with 351 Clevelands. This particular Pantera is rather unique; it isn't a restored car, it is a survivor; an original unrestored car. Other than tires, belts, hoses, fluids, and the intake, carb, and airfilter (I still have the originals) it's factory original. This photo is one of my favorites; it seems that a "Red Ferrari" went by them about 30 minutes prior going at "an extremely high rate of speed". I assured them that it couldn't have been little ole me. After checking out the engine they remarked that they needed to get some faster pursuit cars! :laughin:

I've had my Pantera for 30 years now; time does fly & so does she! :driving: For those who aren't familiar with the DeTomaso Pantera, it was a joint effort between Ford and the Italian Manufacturer DeTomaso. It was the replacement for the Shelby Cobra (AC Cobra). Ford imported them from 1971-1974 and sold them thru select Lincoln Mercury dealers for $10,000. They were built in Modena, Italy just down the road from Ferrari. The bodies are steel & they came with all the goodies; independent coil over suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes with 4 piston Girling calipers, Campagnolo Magnesium Rims that weigh about 15 pounds each, rack & pinion steering, all the works for back in the day. They were powered by the Boss 302's big brother; the 351 Cleveland, and they used the 5-speed transaxle right out of Ford's GT40 race car. It's an Exotic with the heart of a Muscle Car. :thumbsup: Here are a few recent pics:

Works for me. :thumbsup: You have a PM.

I need a TCM/TCU (Transmission Computer) for an 87-90 MJ or XJ with the AW4 Tranny. Thanks.

Partially true (I used to work as an Auto Insurance adjuster). The NADA guides used are not the "Consumer Edition" that 99% of most folks are familiar with and are set up to sucker people into believing the elevated value of a car, rather they are the "Business" or "Association" guides which reflect much more closely the value of the car. These guides are updated monthly, available only by subscription by a verified business, and they even differ by geographical region. Even their online "Retail Edition" is screwy: Here I put in a 1992 Comanche 4x4 with 50,000 miles on it. Clean retail is listed as $3,387. http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=21&p=1&f=5014&m=1199&d=653&y=1992&vi=9193&z=27205&mi=50000 Then I went to the "Classic Cars" section and they list a 1990 Comanche 4x4 with no mention of the mileage at $7,950: http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1990&m=1357&d=7848&c=10&vi=107461&z=27205&da=-1 Point is, the Consumer editions of NADA are worthless.

Exactly right. NADA, Kelly Blue Book, etc has never written anyone a single check to buy a car. A car is worth what someone is willing to pay. Is anybody really going to pay $13000-$21,000 for a base 195 horsepower 1979 Corvette? http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1979&m=1035&d=37&c=11&o=6281&vi=66514&z=37062&da=-1 If so, I've got some swampland in Florida I'd like to sell them. :rotf:

That's not a master cylinder, it's a fuel sediment bowl: Ford didn't come out with hydraulic brakes until 1939. Pre-1939 used rod or cable actuated mechanical brakes. I believe what you have is/was a Model T coupe. Model T's were simple cars, no fuel pump (gravity feed), no oil pump (splash type lubrication), no battery, magneto ignition.

Sweet ride! :thumbsup: Thanks. She was always my dream car. Part Muscle Car, Part Exotic. I've had her for 24 years now, she's a keeper. nice man! keep its clean and care it like its ur baby. :) Oh I do treat it like my baby. It's never been in the rain or spent the night outside a garage since 1973! It's still wearing it's original paint too. Not too bad for a 37 year old paint job huh?

It's probably electrical (coils breaking down, ignition switch, dirty/loose connection). As the temperature increases so does the electrical resistance.

Someone here should be able to help: http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/ Great folks. The Honda 350 twins are great old bikes. Also old road test on CB350: http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php?dir=testcb350&page=cb350&PHPSESSID=f6lodg2oas25l8d5ik685a2mcqgkn4hi Here's a photo of my Honda Twin, a 1971 SL350

It's a shame the AMC AMX/2 or AMX/3 never made it into production: AMX/2 AMX/3 Most folks never knew these AMC Prototypes ever existed. Wouldn't it have been wild to see these AMC's out running around!!! :bowdown:

Sweet ride! :thumbsup: Thanks. She was always my dream car. Part Muscle Car, Part Exotic. I've had her for 24 years now, she's a keeper.

Holy cow! I've never seen anything like that! :eek:

I'm 6'4" and I have Cherokee buckets (taller than MJ's), & still have enough head room and plenty of leg room. :thumbsup: Here are the specs compared to others (source Edmunds.com): COMANCHE (1992) Front Head Room: 39.4 in. Front Hip Room: 55.3 in. Front Shoulder Room: 55.3 in. Front Leg Room: 41.1 in. CHEROKEE (1992) Front Head Room: 38.3 in. Front Hip Room: 55.3 in. Front Shoulder Room: 55.3 in. Front Leg Room: 41 in. (2000) Ford Ranger Std cab Front Head Room: 39.2 in. Front Hip Room: 52.7 in. Front Shoulder Room: 54.5 in. Front Leg Room: 42.2 in. (2000) Chevy s-10 Std cab Front Head Room: 39.5 in. Hip room not listed Front Shoulder Room: 56.9 in. Front Leg Room: 42.4 in. (2000) Toyota Tacoma Std cab Front Head Room: 38.2 in. Front Hip Room: 54.6 in. Front Shoulder Room: 54.1 in. Front Leg Room: 41.7 in. (2000) Nissan Frontier Std cab Front Head Room: 39.3 in. Front Hip Room: 55.2 in. Front Shoulder Room: 55.3 in. Front Leg Room: 40.9 in.

Ron Woods tends to be a bit higher priced than others, but not always. I would try Keith Fearing over at American Dirtbike : http://www.americandirtbike.com He's a heck of a nice guy & he knows his stuff. Even though the belt might look ok it's always recommended that you replace the belt often. Some folks do it yearly as it's cheap insurance. Do this and your engine will last darned near forever. Belt's run around $35 as I recall.

I used to have 2 ATK's, both Rotax powered. Amazing engines. Change out your cambelt once a year and it will run forever. BTW, in case you hadn't guessed I'm Pantera over on Thumpertalk. :wavey:

PM sent on the Medium Blue decal. :thumbsup:

I cleaned the hose and the rubber grommet on the back of the valve cover on mine (4.0 with 180,000 miles) and eliminated about 60% of the oil coming out from blowby . Later I changed my oil and added a large can of Restore (the V8 sized can) and ELIMINATED the rest of the oil coming out from blowby within the first 300 miles!!! :bowdown: I'm very skeptical about most additives, but I'll tell you what, this stuff works as advertised. I've used it for years.

Yeah, I'd say it will be a while before I find the right side one new! Oh well, no rush there, I just wanted to get this one to hold onto until I decide to totally redo the truck. BTW, i saw it on Ebay before it was posted here. :cheers:

Wow, they look brand new!!! Nice Job! :clapping:

I'm in shock that they accepted my offer. $54.55!!! :eek: :eek: Holy crap!!! :D

That's great, he's going to love it!!! :clapping: If he's looking for a bit more performance this is the way to go: http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_20tsivl_long.html I had one on my A4 and it was a hoot! You change programs by pressing your cruise control button a set number of times. You can set it for stock if you are taking it to the dealer and open her back up once you've left. It was the best mod I've ever done. The HP #'s might not look very impressive but the Torque increase throughout the RPM range is wonderful. You will also pick up about 2 mpg to boot (if you can keep your foot out of it). It transforms the car. P.S. I'm not sure on the 2007's, but have him check behind the rear center armrest for the neat factory emergency kit.

Direct from the Automotive Experts at Mobil Oil Corporation: Question: Any Problem Changing the Oil When the Engine is Cold? I have read that the engine needs to warm up before you do an oil change to make the oil flow better. I never did this. I just let the engine cool off overnight to let the oil settle at the oil pan, then do the oil change in the morning. Logic here is that the old oil is collected at the pan and when you drain, you get most of it, plus it is a cold engine, easier to work with. I also put some oil in the new filter so it will not be a dry start. What is your opinion on this method? Thank You. -- Alex Garcia, Franklin Lakes, NJ Answer: "We think it is best to change the oil when it has been warmed up. The reasoning being that the oil flows better, and sludge and other deposits are more likely to be removed from the oil pan." Link: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Changing_Oil_Cold_Engine.aspx From Castrol: "Cold oil will not drain properly, so before starting work, drive your car around to raise the oil temperature to bring it to normal operating temperature." Link: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=8264013&contentId=6003180 :smart: