Htchevyii

I want the style that retains the tailgate so that narrows it down even more. Another option I've considered is building one, I have a friend who built a one similar to the pic below for his f250. There are many online who have as well. Most use extruded t slot aluminum. I would just build the shell and use a wedge tent on top though. With all of the stuff that we carry, I would not want to have to empty the bed onto the ground to access the tent. Sorry to the OP for the hijack.

I've got mine mounted higher. It probably sucks for aerodynamics, but I spend a lot of time crawling around in the bed, (we take at least two 10-15 days overlanding trips per year so the bed is full). The tent isn't really very heavy, I can't tell a difference driving it and my stock XJ. I don't really like having the Rotopax fuel cans mounted as high as they are, but I got tired of having to empty out the bed to get to gas cans, (our fridge and food storage are at the rear of the bed). If I can someday find a contractor type camper shell I may go that direction for better weather and dust protection as well as some theft protection. I 've also been eyeballing the Inspired Overland lightweight wedge tents they are 87 LBS for the standard and 93 LBS for the XL and are lower profile than my current tent. They are supposed to have a Black Friday sale. IO Lightweight Rooftop Tent - Inspired Overland

Well, another trip is in the books in the old Comanche. We successfully completed the Lassen Backcountry Discovery Route (BDR), Shasta-Trinity BDR and part of the CA Crest trail. 1000 miles on as many dirt and back roads as possible. Part one of the Lassen BDR is out and there should be another on Friday. The only issue with the truck is that the plastic that the headlamp switch mounts through seems to be mostly broken and the switch feels like it's ready to break off. I'll have to see if I can install a washer or something. I'm calling that a win. Oops, I didn't realize that I already posted this. Sorry to spam ya.

I've got a stack of stickers with our 1988 Comanche on them to give away. If you'd like one, just be sure that you are subscribed to our YouTube channel below and shoot me a message with your name and mailing address. Thanks for your support! https://www.youtube.com/@campoutwestus/videos

Thanks for watching! It's been washed twice since then. The bad thing about the tires throwing mud everywhere is when the truck is your home for 9 days, you keep getting muddy! I also despise dried mud falling in my eyes when I work on things.

We survived another 1000 mile trip in the old Comanche. We completed the Lassen BDT, Shasta-Trinity BDT and some of the CA Crest trail. The first video is the Lassen BDT. The views from the Burney Mountain Lookout were amazing, but my wife was not a fan of the shelf road.

I agree, if it is not in stock and is going to drop ship from the manufacturer, the website should be transparent to that. I believe that Summit and Jeg's are usually pretty good at telling you before you order. Try searching for an older OEM part. Half of the time it will show available from multiple sources only to be cancelled a day or two later when it is determined to be obsolete.

If you want to investigate the dual diaphragm booster upgrade, see below. You can ignore the Bendix ABS removal part.

Perfect!

@EUREKAI had Joes Auto Glass in Fortuna install one in the MJ and XJ within the last 18 months, (only a few months ago for the XJ). I'm pretty sure that they had it in stock. We used the later rubber moulding on both.

I would definitely read the reviews and try to find one with thousands of reviews and good ones at that, (too easy to influence the rating with few reviews). I bought a $20ISH dollar one that actually drained my battery.

I've got one in my parts rig. Yours for shipping cost if you still need it. You don't have cruise control right, (if you did you'd already have the bracket)? I just did the swap on the XJ, but had to get a little creative to use the new switch and retain the vac dump.

Thanks!

Bummer, that cab looks pretty clean. Can you even see out of the windshield? I'm bummed that if they were going to waste an FC they didn't at least do a decent job.

With the help of information gained on CC, I managed a nearly bolt on conversion to the later model XJ DUAL DIAPHRAM brake booster and master cylinder on the 1989 XJ, (of course almost everything applies to an MJ as well except for the BENDIX 9 deletion). I used a brand new OMIX ADA booster and master ASSY and a Fine Lines front brake line kit for a 1996 XJ. This allowed everything to bolt into place with minimal modifications, (I did need to extend the rear brake tube about 4"). It was a little more complicated due to the XJ having cruise control and needing to keep the VAC dump valve. The part numbers are linked in the description.

Except for plastic!

I use the free Tremec app to calculate it. The correct angle will depend on if you have a stock driveshaft or SYE.

no cutting, perfect fit in the MJ and XJ. Yes, that PN has a fill neck/cap on it. I believe it's for a 92. Not much to the conversion, just a few heater hoses and the overflow tank.

https://bleepinjeep.com/video/jeep-cherokee-closed-to-open-cooling-system-how-to-part-1-of-3/

I'm running this one in the XJ and MJ with no complaints after my Cold Case radiator fiasco, (insufficient fan clutch clearance for off road). The Performance radiator is a single row, but thicker that most. It also has the fan sensor fitting. https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=7809

I am running the RRO. I liked the extra brace in the back, plus the fact that the braces kind of act as a ramp if you were to back over an obstruction as opposed to some of the others that just stick straight down.

Control arm. I wouldn't use sway bar drop brackets unless you had to, extended end links are better. I do have sway bar drop brackets because I'm running a steering box brace with a sector shaft support and they are needed to clear it.

I've ran P rated tires. They are OK for mostly street use, (lighter weight can improve performance). Although they are less expensive, they often have half of the tread depth of an LT, thinner sidewalls and are much more likely to get punctured off road. I am running 4.5" springs with 1" spacers and the ride was brutal. The same components but with drop brackets improved the ride drastically.

Probably. Mine will probably blend in pretty good by the time it gets smogged, (currently only upon change of ownership in my area and I don't plan on selling). I've seen smog techs hook a vacuum pump to the EGR valve to make sure that it functions, (vehicle should stumble or die when opened at idle). I think they are supposed to check it unless you're in an "enhanced" area that requires dyno testing for pre OBD 2. Not really sure if the tech would bother or not? "Now as for the Enhanced Smog Test, the smog test machine reads NOx emissions through the tailpipe which eliminates the need for the smog check technician to inspect the EGR system physically. During the Enhanced Smog Test the smog machine determines whether or not the EGR system is functioning properly based on the NOx emissions content."

Thanks, good to know that those numbers worked for you. I ordered them last week from my local dealer, just waiting for them to show from the east coast. I looked up the parts for a 1997 TJ and crossed my fingers that they would work. Since Mopar doesn't give you dimensions on anything, (bolt DIA, thread pitch, ETC), it's kind of a guessing game sometimes. I thought I had it made when the catalog showed 1990 being different. I ran out to my 1990 parts rig just to find that it was the same incorrect one. I'll update and close this thread if the parts fit.