Akula69

Purchased a three core for the '89 and a two core for the '94 from Radiatorbarn. Never had a problem with either one, fast shipping. When they were out-of-stock on the three core, I called them and they gave me a hard in stock date...and met it.

I have used the Silverstars as an upgrade in all the rigs, and have been very pleased with them. It is usually the first thing I replace when I buy a vehicle. OTOH, I see exceptionally well in the dark...so the H4-type bulbs on other cars irritate me as 'too' bright.

I have them, but I'm in Louisiana. Is that close enough?

Its neat, sure...but what about the horse? He's 'shoeless' now! (just kidding - it looks great!)

I did it on all three of mine - it looks hairy but if you are careful it works. 1) Take off the compression ring with pliers. Take care cause it will fly great distances if it slips out (ask me how I know!) 2) Spray some lube on the motor shaft (I used white lithium spray grease but any thick spray lube will work) and if possible shift the squirrel cage up and down. I had to tap on two mine with a soft head mallet to shift them a bit, and in one case I had to take a small flat screwdriver and gently pry the tabs apart, putting more lube in while spreading them. 3) Get a flat (2") prybar and work each side of the cage upwards to force the cage off the shaft. It will look like its gonna break but none of mine did. If you get worried about the slow progress keep your eye on the motor shaft end - the cage will start working its way off. When the cage is about 1/2 way off it will all of a sudden come free. The new motor shaft should be flat on one side - be sure and align the cage on it before pushing it down. Initally the cage will feel loose and may even shift up and down on the shaft but when you replace the compression ring it will be snug. Good luck!

I learn the same way Jim....sometimes the simplest solution really is the right one! :yes: Glad you got it

Me too! Glad that was not the case

Your welcome...but more importantly - do you have heat now?

Take a clear picture of that area and post it here. We will show you what you can safely remove. Best I can do at the moment unitl I can search for the pics of the valve on the forum.

If you have a sufficently warmed up engine and the blower operates you are probably looking at the heater control valve. This valve is vacuum operated and located up by the firewall on the passenger side. It is in the group of lines that go to and from the overflow tank. You may need to either check the vacuum supply at the valve or the vacuum line that comes out thru the firewall by the heater core connections. The other possibility could be that the valve is broken or debris has clogged it - in which case you might need to replace it. Some folks have cut the valve out and connected the lines straight thru, allowing the coolant to flow through the heater core full time. In any case, do not mess with it when hot. The valve body is plastic and will break, spewing hot coolant all over the place. Good luck!

Ignition switch is a fairly easy fix - drop bottom of dash and drop steering column. The switch is located down the column on the left side. However, there is a different switch for the tilt and non-tilt column....ask me how I know :doh:

Same thing my daughter's XJ did when the ignition switch melted. If the radio and A/C blower will not work when the key is in the on position I can almost tell you for vertain that is whats wrong.

Yep, I was thinking of ordering them both as well ($13.00 includes shipping), but I don't have an actual quote for pressing it in, ( off-hand comment was 200.00 for the whole job - R&R). Still, I wonder if getting a newer AW4 (from 94 to 97) would be a better deal. Even assuming a 10.00 machine shop charge I'd be looking at 26.00 versus 56.00 for an entire unit (including tourque converter). All I have to do is solve the question of the spline count.

Got mine at NAPA - used the Bosch and have been happy with it so far. Documentation with it describes it as a 'high speed turbine pump' and I believe it actually does come up to pressure faster (judging by the sound) then the old one.... 'course the old one was, well old :roll:

I am exploring the need to get a new tail cone for a AW4 (on the 93 XJ). The bushing in the tail cone is worn and allowing the output shaft seal to seep. Despite a $13.00 cost for the bushing (and who knows how much to have it pressed in) I am rapidly discovering that purchasing a whole (used) transmission (and drive shaft) could be more cost effective. If I go back with what I have, it'll be a 23 spline unit. The problem is I'm thinking about a transfer case at the same time and have confusion about the spline counts and years. Searching the forum, some posts say that from 1987 to 1990.5 (first half) the spline counts for the AW4 was 21, but from 1990.5 (second half) to 1997 the spline count went to 23. However, other posts say if a NP 242 was attached, the spline counts were always 23 regardless of year. Other posts say if a NP231 was attached the spline count could be 21 or 23. Is there a master list somewhere that spells it out? (or is this like most of the other Jeep applications...they used what they had available at the time without rhyme or reason?). Thanks.

Not a particularly nice guy, this seller...just saying. :roll:

From the 'net....two "artic" jeeps. http://editorial.autos.msn.com/blogs/autosblogpost-ute.aspx?post=ce507140-3300-4fe4-b51b-06de0a1ad764&icid=autos_0060 PS - whats a 'yeti' footprint?

Yes and yes. However, I was always lead to believe with the open system that was not necessary. The system seems to be operating as advertised, its just that the gauge doesn't match. With a little help I did locate a source for the replacement gauges, but I'm going to get a laser thermometer and confirm the component temps and thermostat opening temp first. If all is accurate in the front I'll just replace the gauge.

OK - let me understand what you want: There is a vacuum "ball", which is truly ball shaped. They come in one port and two port models. I have one of the two port models in the shop and can get you the number. The ball shaped ones are no longer available as far as I know. There is a vacuum "oval", which is more football shaped. They come in one port on each end models, and two ports on each end models (for a total of 4 ports). I have 2 of the one port models and 1 of the two port models in the trailer. The oval shaped ones are widely available online and in the JY.

Recently the 94 XJ had to be towed back to my daughter's dorm - it had bled out all of its coolant (through a failed solder joint in the 1 year old radiator). After tearing into it, I found the thermostat was faulty also and the water pump impeller was loose on the shaft. Replaced: Water Pump Thermostat (195 degree) Radiator Upper and Lower Hoses (with spring!) Thermostatic Fan Clutch Radiator cap Now, when she called me to report the failure, she indicated a large puddle of coolant was under the vehicle, and she had shut if off at the temp gauge in the red. When I opened up the block it was almost dry. :( Replaced parts, closed it up and noted the temp gauge is now acting strangely. When cold, the needle rests just above the 100 degree mark, and upon start it moves all the way to the red side, then back to 100... then slowly climbs to what appears to be 240...then falls back to below 210 momentarily before climbing back to 240. Obviously, the momentary drop is when the thermostat opens, and when I hold the upper hose I can feel it happen, but the climb back to 240 after that bothers me (cause she's about a 5 hour drive away from dad). When the vehicle is fully warmed up I can still hold the hose in my hand...which makes me think there is no way it could be 240 degrees in there. Replaced the temp sender for the gauge 8 months ago (purchased from stealership). So the questions: Can the needle on the gauge be pushed out of accuracy when it bottoms out in the red zone? Can it be "reset"? (wouldn't bottming out in the red zone cause the needle to read low instead of high?) I read Don's writeup on testing the gauge, but don't have the equipment to do it. Does anyone know of a place where you can get OEM temp gauges for the 94 XJ? (the 93 and younger gauges are not the same scale). Thanks

Were you going for the 'Spare the horse - ride a cowboy' award? Hope you recover fast Jim

Great find Rob. Got a set of those red seats lurking in my son's truck (under the seat covers). Even though they are in great shape (only 1 burn mark) I just couldn't bring myself to re-cover them...lol

No - sorry I don't have a picture of mine right now...but I switched in a 1998 brake pedal assembly and then converted the switch. It is true that a floor shift is required. and the newer brake light switch comes in the 91 to 2001 XJ models. It is widely available at Autozone for about $24.00.

Most of the brake pedal assemblies have two holes in the bracket - one for the cruise control switch and one for the brake switch (on later models). When we replaced the brake assembly in the 87, I ground too much off and after some thought decided to attach a piece of aluminum angle iron to the side of the brake pedal arm, and move the brake switch to the second hole. In order to get it 'just right' I used a small binder clip to hold the angle on the pedal arm till it was in the right position, marked it, then removed the pedal arm and drilled the holes. Works like a charm.

Ignition switch is melted. Had it in all three of our older jeeps. When you look at the switch (located down the steering column) you will find two plugs, one blue and one black. The first tab for the blue plug controls the current that 'flows thru' the switch and powers the radio, starter, blower motor and radio. It will be shorted from heat, and in extreme cases the plug will be melted. Reason? The main culprit is thought to be the blower motor. Older blower motors tend to draw more amps then the 14 Ga. wire can carry. As the switch for the blower goes to high speed it draws even more amps, and (although it did not happen to me) I have read in Google it can actually cause a dash fire. There is a different ignition switch for the tilt steering wheel...the non-tilt switch will not fit a tilt (no matter how hard I tried!).