Sir Sam

since you have the 4 cyl radiator setup it looks like you've got the room, you should think about running an intercooler.

Back in December of 2006 I bought a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Freedom for $2000. I like the freedom package and yellow has grown very much on me. It needed a new fender, bumper end cap, front end, and airbags. Total price in invested repairs. $300(also converted it from non-cruise control to cruise when I replaced the clockspring) Partway through repair: old fender: Which is the new part? Closer: Back together sans paint: Painted: Later updated with the correct wheels: Cleaned up as it currently sits: So thats the backstory on the swapee, now lets talk about the donor. I had been stalking this rolled 2005 limited CRD since october or so, finally it came up for auction and I put in my proxy bid. This weekend was slow torture with me checking the status of my proxy bid.....winning at $100, then someone else bids......winning at $1700, then someone else bids......winning at $2500........I starting to get nervous. It sits at 2500 untill the auction. I wait, I wait, I wait, its run number 176.......they slowly approach my unit, time seems to slow, I swear the second hand on the clock just ticked backwards. Finally mine is up on the auction block, bidding starts out at my proxy bid of $2500......2600....2700....2800....2900, its skyrocketing quick, finally the bid slows at 3000, I am still winning with 3100, one last bid trickles in at 3200, my proxy bid for 3300 becomes the high bid. My pulse quickens, my vision narrows, the uncomfortable feeling in my gut from not leaving for the bathroom half an hour ago becomes acute. This is it I think, this is my highest bid, I cannot afford to go any higher, if he bids 3400 I am out.....all of a sudden the unit dissapears, and the next one is up......if it were possible my blood pressure goes even higher, confusion sets in. It barely sat on 3300 for any amount of time, they didn't hold it there long.....did I miss the bid? did I buy it? then it pops into the sale history list....I see the $3300......and next to that I see my bidders number.....GREAT SUCCESS! And with that, Project CRD XJ is born: http://ww4.klode.com/kws/napplications/ ... Exit=Close

My CRD engine has that setup, I am going to be converting it over to a normal canister setup instead. Just curious, why? At least in my case I don't want to have to order filters in bulk from overseas just to change my oil. Converting to the normal style means I an pickup filters locally.

It looks like the rear window is busted out of the shell, but other than that what kinda shape is the shell in? Could you be a little more specific about the location and or name of the junkyard...... might try to find a way to convince the old man to pickup the shell for me...............

I think this is really the best way to do it, get everything all bolted up, use a hammer to set pinion angle, make sure its centered, then tack the perches, drop it off, and fully weld em on. Seems safer than trying to measure out in the open.

There is nothing "supposed" about it. And they will never be available to the general public in the US.

In addition to that I would also add that if we could measure the full value and the empty value of both units we could very easily construct a resistor network to correct the resistance.

beer. beer. beer. I have 3 microbrewres here in town. and budweiser(we don't drink that).

My CRD engine has that setup, I am going to be converting it over to a normal canister setup instead.

Sentry key is standard on the WJ. Whoever told you that they cannot "make" them at the dealer is full of it. They order the key blanks, cut them to your Jeep,, then they need to be programmed with either the Scan tool or with two good keys. Or if you really wanted to, you take the one good sentry key, attatch it to the inside of your column cover near the module antenna, then you can use any normal key cut to your ignition code to start the Jeep. 2nd.

Well I had been wondering about what to do for a radiator, and the 4cyl 2.5 radiator seems like it was perfect match....unfortunatly no one seems to make a good replacement radiator for it, only single core, plastic aluminum setups. There are some all aluminum radiators on ebay, but they are single core. Well this was all moot, I was just going to wait untill I came to that bridge to burn it. The thinking was that I would wait untill I knew for certain what I needed to use for a radiator to order one....I have a good 2 core OEM radiator here from a 2001 6 cyl, that I could use, and I have the crappy old radiator from my MJ I could use for mockup. The problem was, the more I looked at it and the more I measured the more certain I became that I would need to use it. Which left me with the problem that if I did need to use it, there would not be a good replacement option. Now anyone can spend the time to custom mount a custom radiator, or an off the shelf radiator for something like a YJ/TJ, but since I am faced with enough fabrication already here I am hoping for something that will bolt in. Now that being said I came across something at the junkyard that is either a windfall, or a white elephant, here we have a nearly new, single core(but thicker than a double core) OEM style radiator, $50 is a little pricey in my mind, but if it works out will be a good solution. If it doesn't well crap, I just wasted $50. Got the windshield removed and safely stored in the basement: Got some tie downs off of a ford exploder sport track(and a 8.8 with 4.10s and LSD- all ready sold ) And of course further probing reveals more rust, what ticked me off about this bit was all the rust was below the seam sealer........ya, the metal rusted out below the seam sealer......grrr, oh well, I got a junk hood that I will raid for patch metal. Fun part is going to be welded in the patch panel with an Arc welder......I got some 1/32" sticks that seem to work OK on sheet metal. I need to spend a hour or so cleaning up before I move on with work, garage is cluttered with a bunch of parts strewn around. I got these dollys at harbor freight, they actually work really well for rolling the Jeep back and forth in the garage, I would highly recommend them to anyone who thinks they might be useful.

Nope. I think RI is kinda unique like that.

I agree, but it is gonna be a chick car, after all. :rotf: Then it sounds like it needs to be as idiot proof as possible = 4wd.

Its not a Jeep without 4wd.

Yup, there were diesel sprinters, and gas sprinters......stupid gas versions. :roll:

I think that 5cyl mercedes engine is sleeved too, which would make for fairly easy rebuilds........ course, this is only in reference to the diesel models......who gives a $#!& about the gas versions.....

Please see this thread(I think most of your questions can be answered there): viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10092

The NV3550 is sold behind the diesel in the rest of the world, the NV3550 is conservatively rated at 300ft-lbs of torque, the stock CRD puts out under 300. Even the more aggressive tunes out there will barely up your RW torque above 300 ft-lbs.

Connect the pins that would otherwise lead to the 4L ECU to the CRD engine, then only a half dozen extra bits of wiring need to be run around. Things like 12V switched, starter signal, etc, all just need to be spliced in from the XJ wiring.

So since your doing the swap hows it going? Any info to help. I was thinking the CRD and either an NV3550 or 4500(over automatics already) and just beef up my NP231 and get some dana 44's. How would you estimate the cost of the swap? Cost and time finding a 2.8 CRD is my main concern. NV4500 is just plain stupid, sure is a strong trans, but when you can just boltup a NV3550 theres no reason to dick around with a 4500. CRD's are actually fairly common for used engines these days. Finding a complete engine/EFI harness/ECU is getting to be the hard thing.....most parts recyclers just chop the harness to get the engine out. And to date I have only seen one engine fail. Electronics are not that bad, IMO if your going to goto the trouble to do the CRD swap you should swap over to a 97+ interior, it will make for a much cleaner install.

Pretty sure thats a completely different chassis as what the sprinter is based on.

I'm doing this swap now. Using the VM2.8 and Chrysler 545RFE and NP242 together is the smart way to go.

they are a mercedes design, manufactured all over the world.

you need a good 2.5?