johnnyc

http://www.alloyusa.com/faq.html Cool, so the 10-year warranty on my Alloy USA shafts is still good. I got 33-spline Dana 44 shafts from Alloy USA a couple of years ago for $200. It was good to know someone who worked there.

When ever you have the time :cheers: Tomorrow afternoon? :D Since I put rear discs on, I picked up a prop valve from a 4-wheel disc ZJ. This should work okay, shouldn't it?

So Cracker, when are you gonna help me do mine? :D

We have these electronic message boards on the freeways to advise drivers of accidents, traffic jams, and such. When the roads are open, these signs urge drivers to "Call 911 to report drunk drivers". Always wondered if calling 911 on a cell phone while driving is a ticketable offense.

I did a two inch budget boost on my MJ when I first got it. The V8 ZJ coils only netted me half an inch. So I added a 1.5 inch spacer. In the back, I added the main leafs from an XJ for two inches.Then I added 245/75/16 tires (just under 31") on Moab wheels. These parts worked great for a few months, until I went SOA. I don't see a problem running coil spring spacers on a street vehicle. Hell, now I have 3.5 inch coil springs with ACOS set at about 2.5 inches. And the ACOS is just an adjustable spacer.

I used the main XJ leaf as a AAL and got about 2 inches. In the front, I used V8 ZJ coils (1/2") and 1.5" spacers. That was just right to run 245/75/16 tires on Moab wheels. When I went SOA, I just took the XJ main leaves out and gave them to another MJ guy.

I'm not saying you can't use a stubby bit. I've done it that way plenty of times. But the last time I mounted newer doors on my Jeep, I was also changing fenders and had them off. It was sooo much easier getting the doors lined back up without the fenders on. You can use a full-size ratchet wrench. And the fenders are only held on with a few screws. Well worth the extra few minutes.

Remove the six torx bolts per door, put on new doors, mount new strikers. The torx bolts are easier to get to if the fenders are off. There are holes in the hinges to allow easy access.

There was a recent thread about this. It's the harmonic balancer that is separating. Like Geonovast said, you need a new one. Don't even try welding it. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22209

Actually, mid-99 is when they switched from composite to cast rotors. Whatever rotors you decide on, be sure to use the corresponding unit bearing, or else you'll have big problems. You cannot just freely interchange rotors only.

After our texting session yesterday, you still had to come on here and ask advice? Fine, I see how it is. :D I have Thursday and Friday off if you need help with the wiring or the new doors.

The last time I helped a friend change his HB, we put a socket on the nut with a long handle that touched the ground. Then he just blipped the starter to loosen the nut. While this may not be the recommended method, it did work quite nicely.

The harmonic balancer may be starting to separate, which is causing the belt to detrack.

Please tell me about the Kilby pulley and why you used it. :D Sorry. I only mentioned the Kilby pulley to kinda explain why I had installed a 98 XJ alternator into a 92 MJ. I had a York OBA system in my 98 XJ, which used a Kilby bracket and pulley that had an additional groove to drive the York compressor via a v-belt. I saved the alternator when I scrapped the XJ. After I lifted the MJ, I wanted to install the OBA system into the truck. Instead of installing just the Kilby pulley onto the 92 alternator, I simply swapped out the entre unit because the XJ alternator was only a couple of years old.

Okay, it's working now. But it wasn't an hour ago.

No. I keep getting "no results found".

I have my old 98 XJ alternator (with Kilby pulley) on my 92 MJ.

I put a newer "softball" canister in my MJ. It fit inside my winch bumper better than the "blimp" one. Heat and cruise control work just fine.

I like that Shadetree Mechanic show too. I'm sure they used the hoist in order to get good camera shots. It would be hard to stick a camera underneath a car if you didn't have a hoist.

Yes.

I'm with you there. I had originally wanted to get my bed Line-Xed and still may do so some time in the future. But for now, my budget said Duplicolor. I used two cans of their spray-on bedliner. I wasn't expecting great results, but I was still pleasantly surprised. It looks a lot better than it did before, and it has held up pretty well, even after throwing stuff in the bed to take to the scrap yard. There are a few scratches that need to be touched up, but that's about it. I'm not saying that my method is the best. Clearly, it is not. But for someone on a tight budget, it is an option. Cost me about $10. Of course, good prep work is the key to making the stuff stick. I just washed the bed and sanded it really good.

My 92 was also an unrestored 100% rust-free, leak-free truck when I got it a couple years ago. Of course, being in Las Vegas for its first 17 years helped quite a bit.

You can remove the "factory MJ brace". Underneath it, the control arm mount is exactly like an XJ's. So the RE drop bracket braces will work.

AND...if you want a smooth ride, the bushings are the key, not the control arms themselves. Get some aftermarket control arms with rubber bushings, as opposed to poly bushings.

No, I DID see the drop brackets on your list. Even though you are using drop brackets, at 5.5 inches, the arms still need to be longer than stock to retain the wheelbase and front pinion angle (if 4WD). There are some charts floating around showing control arm lengths in relation to inches of lift. I too am running drop brackets and I know stock length arms were not going to work. At least in my case. Plus, did you miss the part about strength? If you are going to wheel your truck at all, those flimsy control arms are going to twist and bend.