Jerry

Poor pup :(

Bump :waving: Please can someone let me know if I got it right now? TIA :bowdown:

OK, edited. Thanks Eagle :thumbsup: 1 - Get XJ Proportioning valve from wreckers and check/clean 2 - Remove MJ rear load sensing valve assembly and all the rear brake lines 3 - Remove MJ front proportioning valve 4 - Install XJ front proportioning valve and re-connect the front brake lines as before 5 - Install new brake line from lower front prop valve port to rear brakes 6 - Bleed system 7 - Test drive 8 - Drink beer and feel satisfied with another MJ upgrade successfully completed :wrench: Before: After: Credits again going to MrSimon :cheers: I'd like to get this spot on so this thread will be useful as a simplified cheat sheet for anyone doing this common mod. Once I've got it nailed and confirmed as correct I'll post a new thread with just the instructions and diagrams Thanks for the input guys :thumbsup:

See my avatar :thumbsup: <<

I think this thread has slightly lost the thread :D In summary then: 1 - Get XJ Proportioning valve from wreckers, check/clean and blank off lower front port 2 - Remove MJ rear proportioning valve assembly and the brake lines that feed it(optional) 3 - Remove MJ front proportioning valve 4 - Install XJ front proportioning valve and re-connect brake lines 5 - Bleed system 6 - Test drive 7 - Drink beer and feel satisfied with another MJ upgrade successfully completed Please can someone confirm this is correct or edit as necessary? :wrench: The diagram below is correct but should show an XJ proportioning valve not the MJ one?

Thanks for the info :thumbsup: My blue truck never had a load sensing valve since I got it and I've never had any lock up problems. On the other hand, my red truck still has one and I have tried the manually locking the load sensor arm in different position and it seems much more prone to locking up without a load on board :dunno: Weird! I thought I read somewhere that the XJ prop valve doesn't apply full pressure to the rears right away when you hit the pedal? Any more info on that anyone?

:thumbsup: That was going to be my next question

Sounds like a fair assessment. So if I understand you right, the front proportioning valve must be removed anyways in order to blank off the lower front port? And if it's off anyways then ........... Is this an easy task? :cheers:

Hello all :waving: I'm doing some preliminary reading up on getting rid of the rear axle load sensor valve, please can any of you fellow Comanche nuts confirm/deny that this diagram (Thanks MrSimon :bowdown: ) is the correct and most simple set-up for removing the load sensing valve? And, what's the deal with the XJ front prop valve? I've read that if I don't put one of those in, rear brake lock-ups might become a problem. Is that correct and if so how bad is it? Does it make the truck un-drivable? I'd like to avoid the hassle/expense/time factor of swapping out yet more stuff if I can! Thanks in advance :wrench:

:clapping: :rotf:

Good idea! Reckon I can figure out some method to transfer heat to the blank with electrikery :thumbsup: The gadget has a couple of batteries in it that somehow warm up a thin piece of metal that slides out from it like in this pic. I guess the metal bit is like a resistor? It works but it's real slow and the batteries run out quick.

I've got one of these and it sort of does the job but it's pretty cheap and plasticky. I'm looking for somewhere I can get an upmarket version of the same thing that won't fall apart in 10 minutes. What I really need is a supercharged one cos my blue truck loves to refuse to let me in regularly during the winter :yes: "I couldn't get into the car,,,,,,,,again" is wearing thin on the boss :roll: Is there something (silicon spray?) I can blast into the lock to stop it icing up in the first place? I've tried the little bottles of isopropyl but it doesn't work for my locks. Or do I have to pull the door apart and grease up the mechanisms to stop the ice? :cheers: in advance :wrench:

Big Foot good! :thumbsup: My current fav :wrench: From Corb Lund album: 'Hair in my eyes like a Highland steer' QCcWzLAcv4o

Thanks for giving me a good morning chuckle Jim :clapping:

Camping cool :thumbsup:

Welcome :wrench: Got any pics of the Cadmino? :cheers:

Welcome :wavey: Nice Jeep collection, love the Waggy :thumbsup:

Any pics or hints? :thumbsup:

OUCH! :( Anyone seen a conversion to a more reliable system? e.g handbrake lever or such? Or maybe a fix for the ratchet? Mine has a tendency to slip sometimes when I push it down to certain teeth in the ratchet. It's a bugger cos it's a manual box and I often need to hop out when the motor is running and I'm on a hill. Don't like to stop and start the motor just for two seconds while I go a get whatever I forgot.

Is your 2.8L kaput? Or are you just looking for more power?

:rotf:

It will easily be a reliable DD truck once you've trapped all the mechanical and electrical Gremlins and sent them packing. Might take you a little while to catch them all though. Don't worry about any "my dana35 or aw4 or engine exploded" threads, they're mostly on trucks that get an off road pasting. If yours hasn't been too badly abused it should be fine. Sounds like you want a bed liner though :thumbsup:

:yes:Me = :dunce:

Sorry guys, didn't mean start a pc/mac flaming thread! :eek: Being fairly slow on the uptake with all things computer and not being pc OR mac biased I was just wondering what all the 'i' fuss was about, I've seen/heard/observed a fair bit, either directly or in the media.

You must have a big yard! :yes: