Bornindesert

Goods inputs - thanks. Looks like I'll be reversing the rear shocks after I confirm with the product sheet on their web site.

Was wanting to see how Comanche or Xj owners felt about shock absorber boots and orientation when there is a choice. First is the front Billstein with the large unruly black boot. I'm not feeling the way the boot looks like the shock could be bent. Would you leave it or remove it? Then the rear shocks would tend to mount reversed from the way I have them. I'm not sure if it makes a difference, although I like seeing the rod end down so someone trailing behind can spot an issue. Would like to know what opinions are out there for gas side on the top like mine or mounted down toward the axle end. The axle mounts are Barne's 4x4.

Nice, if there's a chance you'd go back I could use the mini console, shift boot, steering wheel, black plastic across the back and the door panels. Would pay you to ship, Scottsdale. Thanks for posting up the pic.

Airspeed, thanks for posting. I think this could be my solution because everything else checks out. Didn't think about how the horn switch was grounded.

The best you can do with the drier is take all the fittings off and let the oil run out in a pan. If you had a large funnel I guess that would work too. It drained out pretty slow in my case, and only got like an oz out of it.

Thanks Hornbrod, I will go through the HVAC system vacuum lines in more detail. I had all that stuff out to clean up and work in the engine bay, and thought it all went back together but may have screwed something up. The canister ball is already moved up under the coolant pressure bottle, should be easy to go through it.

Haven't checked, but agree that would rule out a valve or ring issue. Thanks

88' 4.0l Auto 4x4 MJ - healthy engine, around 70K miles, 154K on the truck Just got this Comanche back on the road this past week. First took a few short trips to break in the new gears, than a trip to the gas station followed by a quick off-road detour to check for wheel rub. Was starting to notice that it was down on power, as in struggled to hit 55 mph coming up the hill. When you floor it, starts to lug and actually looses power until you let off the pedal. Passed inspection, so emmissions, evap recovery and cap all checked out with flying colors. All factory vacuum lines are in place, mostly in decent shape. Good fuel pressure, new filters, plugs and tune-up. Replaced the Cat, muffler and tail pipe. Engine runs good. However, when it's under load like accelerating up a grade, the A/C moves from Vent to Defrost. That tells me it's losing vacuum under load, not sure why or what would cause that only under heavy load? At idle, coast or light load it blows out the vent again, runs smooth. Starts normal, idles normal, sounds normal. can't locate an obvious vacuum leak. Question - what else to look for? Could a bad O2 sensor be the cause? Dirty trottle body? It's almost like the ECU is retarding the timing. Maybe I don't want to fix...because my teenage son will be driving it :dunno: a built in governor!

Thanks for the info, helps me focus my search - I've definitely moved forward with looking around for a 03-06 D44. They're out there, but not in great abundance around the Phx area

Agree, the 2.5 is actually a decent motor and more gas friendly than the 4.0l. The Jeep guys that got me into Comanches were big on the 4.0 engines, but didn't dog the 2.5 like they did the V6. Coming from a life long Jeep Eagle mechanic (not me, my Jeep friend), I'd say that's a pretty good vote of confidence for the 2.5. Drive it, fix it up a little at a time, add some options or upgrades that you pick from the JY or find on line. Learn about the vehicle and I'm sure the right 4.0 4X4 will eventually come along. I didn't get a 4X4 until my 3rd Comanche! What color is the interior, it looks like Maroon, or could it be Black?

Much easier job starting with a R134a system. The pump and drier are the two components that hold oil. Not much oil came out of my old drier, but I'd still drain the old so you know what it held, then add (pour in) about 1 oz of PAG100 in addition to what you got out of it. Same for the compressor if you decide to go the extra yard and replace the old PAG100. Main reason to do the compressor is when you switch over from R22, so I think you'd be OK there. If you did add PAG, try to get it in via the side plug, not the ports. Adding 1 oz to the compressor probably would be a safe thing to do. Definitely pull a vacuum to get all the moisture out once the lines are buttoned up, that is a key step before you charge it back up. Other things you could do - get the valve kit which let's your replace the Shrader valves and Dust caps on the compressor ports. That's an easy step and should eliminate a potential leak area. I'm not a certificed AC mechanic, but have done a bit of research and just passing along what I've learned.

Just converted my Comanche over to R134a, so here is the basic process. You'll need R134a fittings for high and low pressure side of the compressor if it was previously R22. If it was R22, you should remove compressor and dryer, drain them into something that measures ounces. I flushed mine with clean parts cleaner and blew it out before reinstalling. I'd go ahead and get a new dryer/receiver from RockAuto, they are only like $20 and don't reverse the brass check valves (they are not available). Order the O-ring conversion kit from RockAuto while you are there or pick up locally. Get some Synthetic PAG with dye already in it. Remove all the lines and TX valve, replace with green o-rings and yes you can coat them with the new PAG oil. Be very careful with your condensor, it's aluminum and you can easily strip the threads. If you do, like I did (they came apart extremely hard) it's back to Rock Auto for a new condensor. There are a few different liguid line set-ups, the ones that go all the way through the radiator support are more common than "American" or dealer installed A/C. You'll need to pull the grill, front header and top brace to get at the condensor (might be a way around it, but that's what I did). When converting from R22 to R134a, replace the old PAG oil (non-synthetic) with an equal amount of new PAG oil, plus 1-2 oz's over what you recovered. Should be looking at like 5-6 oz's. Button everything up, tight but not too tight. If you don't have a vacuum pump, or gages, or R134a charging attachment...go to a local garage and have them pull a vacuum for 30-45 minutes, see if it holds (another 45 minutes or so) and then charge with, and I may not have this totally correct...two and 1/2 cans of R134a. I started with just two cans and the air is ice cold. When I do the other Comanche, I'll splint one can between them. Good luck, let me know if this all makes sense.

Just put this one on the road this weekend, breaking in the gears. The bed had some rust and is sand blasted around the wheel well, so body and paint are next on the list. A better angle White on Black on Dirt

Finding a full cluster has been on my list. The one that was swapped in my desert rat Comanche was a hack job. Looking for a 88 4.0 floor shift full gages. Will send PM.

So my 88 has the BA10 4.0 231 combination based on the production years for the Peugeot. The PO said he did the clutch and slave, it's good for now while I figure out the build I want to do. I came across a 95 Rubion 4:1 tcase the other day, got me thinking what would work between it and the stock 4.0l. Thanks for the info.

I need to start learning more about the various transmissions. So the BA 10 is the Peugeot manual? And AX 15 is AMC?

Hey nice score on the drivetrain, are you converting or upgrading?

Nice Axle purchase....I want one of those.. B) how'd you ever come across it? What years did Rubi's come with the set-up shown here, looks like a bolt on MJ/XJ axle? So many questions now...sorry. Some nice upgrades on that D44/30 too, not to mention the Solid Diff cover. Happy to see it's getting installed in your Comanche! Crazy that Jeep would run HP's on some models, and LP's on others. Was reading a post earlier regarding how they went back and forth over the years.

BTW, what does the 2003 Rubi have up front in terms of an axle? D30 or HP D44?

Got it, thanks - that was the description I was looking for in terms of how rugged the carrier would stand up. Obviously, the feller selling his must want to romp and stomp. I'm going to contact the guy and see if I can get a good history on the one he has up for sale.

Sorry I missed this last month...my final drive angles turned out good after I removed some rear shims. I'm really close to putting some road miles on the '88 Comanche build and will see how well it all works together (lift, tires, gearing, suspension). I have some wheel hop driving around the dirt in the yard but haven't installed the rear shocks yet. I've got a big shackle out back too which I'm not sure will stay in it's current configuration. The 67 GTO is a beast and agree has great lines and grill. The 69 is much more vanilla but is very fun to drive. Love the Cuda's too, grew up with a friend that had the pistal grip 440 :bowdown:

Makes sense - a feed through and a notch in the shim pack. At $500 or so as listed, probably a good value compared to an ARB. My plan for this next project is no bigger than 33's, do you think Rubi locker is a weak point in the rear at that size tire? thanks!

Second that emotion - tight truck

Holy Sweet Justice! Tranny for a Title, the sweet smell of critter dust burning off the manifold :)

There's a 2006 Rubicon Air Locker for a D44 for sale locally. Does anyone know or have experience with installing this thick gear carrier in a 1988 Comanche D44? or Similar vintage D44... Any sources - greatly appreciated, thx