coheed

Is the price too high? No one wants to deal with this much of a project? Both?

I'll root around in my 86 parts manual to see if I can figure it out. I sorta remember removing it from the column, but that was a few months ago, and it was also in my pile of steering column parts Both of the inner fender braces are installed so I know it's not one of those

It's a different length and angle than both of those. Really scratching my head on where I removed this thing from. Changed the title to describe it better

Putting my interior back together and can't remember where this brace rod goes. I've got the 2 that go from the column to the left in, just don't know where this one goes.

Dash and electrical mostly back in

Bump, I'm planning a trip to Flagstaff in a month along this route and would be willing to bring this with me for a club member. I'd also trade for an ARB bumper for my truck. Again I'm flexible on price

Miscounted plugs for the floor, oops. Quick coat of POR15 over the sealer so the floor looks uniform until I get some carpet. Got the underside sealed up today and I'll wait for the rain to hold off in the next couple days and I'll do a quick coat underneath as well. Put one thick coat on the roof. Hoping that and the new SMS headliner will cut down on some noise and radiant heat in the cab. Put a coat on the seat mounts as well and they're hanging in the cab to cure out of the rain.

It's not in the greatest condition but it's not falling apart like some other trucks are. I'll reexamine that area when I go to seal the rest of it. Thanks for letting me know.

That's a good tip. I was going by where the sealer was originally, but we all know these trucks weren't sealed the best. How much further in did you go? Or should you have gone?

Should've bought myself a needle scaler years ago. This is so much less work than a wire wheel. This matercoat stuff is no joke. Let some dry on my arm and can't get it off no matter what I try. Not the prettiest seal job, but a sight better than what AMC put on the truck. Got the AC Delco sealer for a good price. Hopefully it won't shrink too much, but I applied it pretty liberally. Still gotta seal underneath.

I wasn't trying to imply they are designed to lift the truck. I'm saying that I purchased what was advertised as an OEM replacement for the metric ton spring that lifted my truck over 3 inches compared to what the 86 FSM has indicated for ride height range. Like @ghetdjc320 I bought them hoping for a lift, but I was also prepard to get none. I was happily surprised that I got the amount of lift I wanted from what was supposed to be a factory replacement.

Finished all the welds up. Used a compact needle scaler I bought from harbor freight and hopefully peened some stress out of the welds to avoid issues in the future since it was all gasless fluxcore and I know there's slag left in some of those welds lol. Thinned out a pint of POR15 and brushed it over all the seams. I know it seeped through the way I hoped it would because when I used the needle scaler on the underside of the truck a good bit of excess came out. 4 coats of POR15 on the interior. Needle scaled underneath the truck and hopefully tomorrow afternoon and Friday I can put down some coats of the Mastercoat I got for the bottom and use the internal frame coating on all the unseen stuff.

No, I spoke with general multiple times and was told every time that the lift pack with military wrap isn't in their system anymore. I purchased the 97-571s directly off their website and the springs ride more than 3" higher than factory measuring how the FSM details how to measure ride height. The discrepancy between reported lift is due to their manufacturing.

Mine are a little stiff with nothing in the bed, but I've had more than one none car person friend say it just rides like a truck and that it's not a rough ride. With the camper top on the truck it smoothes out the ride considerably.

Man, time can really get away from you. Going on 6 months for a floor replacement.... I'll just let the pictures do the talking Still have the section of the tunnel right above the tcase on the drivers side to weld up then paint and put the interior back in. I also managed to score a nice set of XJ Icons so I can run a skinnier 32 at some point. Stock size tires are so tiny

As much as it bums me to sell this, I just don't have the time or resources to devote to restoring this camper properly. I would prefer it go to a Comanche owner since it's lived on a Comanche most of its life. Some background on the camper and info in this post: Currently the camper is mostly taken apart. The canvas is off, and the roof hasn't been reattached with the new foam core I made out of poor man's fiberglass. I have a myriad of parts that I bought for it including; new canvas, some XPS foam, dicor sealant, turnbuckles, a new roof vent, contact glue, elastomeric roof paint, and other stuff that will be included. At this point I'd just like to get money back out of it and it go to a good home. Asking $1600obo right now, and would also consider trades for an ARB bumper

Received mine a couple days ago and I'm very happy with the fit, finish, and color match. Very much worth the money!

I bought the 1700# ones for my truck almost exactly a year ago and can confirm I also gained 3" over stock with them.

I usually cover mine in dielectric grease. It's clear so you can see if there's rust forming under it so you can clean and reapply. I refreshed the tail light ground on mine a few years ago and no issues so far.

Yeah, both my truck and my trailer are 86s so they both had the flat brackets. I did buy an old Smittybilt tube rear bumper in a junkyard one time, so I do know of the bump you're talking about. In their Facebook comments they said they didn't have a long bed to test fit on, so I assume they weren't designed with those measurements into consideration at all like you're saying. But on the product page they say you have to drill to mount. So potentially drilling 2 instead of one to get them to fit isn't a huge deterrent. Recently I had to cut my bumper mount bolts off with an air hammer and fish some in to remount my bumper when I installed my krusty hitch. I used a 3/8 breaker bar that also doubles as an extension and used more extensions to get deeper into the frame as needed with some painters tape in the socket to hold the nut, so that also isn't a deterrent. I may pull the trigger on these since they are doing a limited run to gauge interest and set pricing this month, and they'll probably be more expensive afterwards. At the bottom of the page they say a long bed version is in development, but I asked them about a timeline and they didn't have one. For anyone interested in them here's the product page https://ironman4x4fab.com/collections/comanche-mj/products/mj-rear-shackle-relocation-brackets

Looks like Ironman4x4fab is going to make some shackle relocation brackets. I personally would buy a set because it's an automatic inch of lift and if you're running longer shackles you can make sure your shackle angle is correct, instead of extreme like some of the longer shackles tend to get. But they're saying they'll only fit short beds. I don't know if the distance from shackle hole to the last bumper mount hole is different from lwb to swb? I measured my lwb at 3 11/16ish. Could someone measure their swb to see how far off they are?

As someone who's had asthma since birth and has been in or around the welding field for about 10 years at this point I only started using a P100 respirator about 2 years ago. The difference it makes is astounding. Even if other dudes are a holes and try to make fun of you, the PPE is worth it.

If you have any interest in replacing the stock tail lights, the oracle LED ones have insanely bright reverse lights. They've got their own issues like not having the light projected to the sides or reflectors and don't have an OEM look. But the actual brake/turn and reverse lights are much brighter than what most LEDs can accomplish in the stock housing.

Well, my generator is only there because it's a fairly large/heavy one and I haven't put wheels on it yet. So, that ends up being the best interim storage place lol. Once I get wheels on the gen I'd like to either buy or build some storage up front. Diesel heaters are looking much better these days as alternative to propane. I've read up on them some and it seems to pay to get the smallest one that meets your needs. People are saying if you run them on lower settings all the time that they build up soot and need more maintenance than if ran on WOT all the time. Also, it only weighed in at 1150#? With the idler axle and c-channel tongue on mine it might clock in under 1000.

Yes on the 2.8 it's inside the carb. If you look at the bottom of the block on the driver's side there's a mechanical fuel pump that'll have 2 rubber lines coming in and a metal one going up to the carb. You have to undo the meal line going into the carb and the little metal cylinder that it goes into is the housing. That then unscrews from the carb and you can slide the filter out. Installation is opposite of removal. Rockauto has the reprints of the FSM decently cheap and it'll have all the diagrams you'd ever want. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12534281&cc=1181393&pt=10335