Randy in Maine

I am not sure I even have the correct torque valve for the lug nuts. I run alloy wheels and have always used 104 foot pounds. Is that pretty close?

Well Fort Kent is about as far up there as anyone can get and as far from Key West as Route 1 goes. Enjoy your stay.

You need not limit yoruself to just things in walking distance. Public transportation works well in and around Boston.

You can buy a decent timing light for cheap money. E-barf has some but I bought mine at Sears (with the crank in centrifical advance) for $70 about 5 years ago. Money well spent. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921023000P

I have used: http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/reifenbest ... 61&dsco=35 http://www.tirerack.com/ With good result. YMMV (your mileage may vary 8) )

He was here just a minute ago..... He was funny. We all rent here on earth and you don't get your money back.

That is pretty cold blooded stealing gas from a 61 beetle. What are you going to get 10.6 gallons? When I had a 61 (last year of "no factory gas gauge" BTW) I was pretty good with the reserve lever and usually the passenger never even realized we had just run out of gas. I could fill it up for like $2.50 (back in 1970).

When was the last time you changed out the fuel lines on that 61?

Just buy a timing light and cut to the chase.

I get a pretty constant 21 mpg driving ~ 65 mph. About 460+ miles on a tank of fuel. (longbed so it is a big 23.5 gallon tank though). I run about 2200 rpms at 65.

I also have a 1979 baywindow westy camping outside of Moab.

Anymore when I buy a used car I just buy new 2 new replacement cables for them. Better to do it in yoru driveway than in the middle of nowhere when you really are not prepared to do it. I know I am going to have to do them eventually or they are goping to leave me stranded so I just cut to the chase and do it when I first get the car. I am using an Optima red top and don't get any of that crud on my cables.

May also have rust in the fuel tank and munged up fuel injectors. I woiuyld send them to www.cruzinperformance.com and get them cleaned and calibrated. It should run better on 87 octane fuel.

Another option would be to seal it off with duct tape and use your hand vacuum pump to see if it will hold a vacuum.

Georgia has some super nice interesting people and great BBQ.

They may not be around in 2013. Too little and way too late.

A fool and his money are soon parted.

You may want to consider using a ball joint/tie rod boot. I measure the holes with a digital caliper and take that to the parts store.

I have never found the factory air cleaner to be restrictive. So why do I need a cone?

That doesn't work any more. It is all done via computer through the state DMV so there really is just about no way to cheat the system. Keep in mind that when the air gets to CA it is clean, when it leaves it is crap.

I also like to clean the star adjustment sytem on my bench grinder's steel brush wheel and then give it a nice coat of 50/50 of anti-sieze and wheel bearing grease to make sure they turn really nicely for a while.

That (no bumper and the tires) would never pass the annual saafety inspection in this state.

If you have a plastic fuel tank, you can run it dry. If you have a metal tank, leave it full of stabilized fuel. I use regualar gas and regular 30 weight oil with no issues.

Line-X is pretty good stuff. If they will fix the paint, you are OK.

Usually if there is no signal to the injector, there is no fuel being injected. If you have a "noid light" that will tell you quickly if the injector is seeing a "fire" signal. I like a bad plug or some other weak ignition component (ignition wire?) or a leaking injector or poor compression. Usually incorrect fuel pressure will make them all run rich, so that would be less likely IMO.