Randy in Maine

Actually compressed air can work pretty well. I have a little gizmo that I made from cheap stuff and some fittings in the shop (garden sprayer + cone incense burner + vacuum fittings and hose) that plugs into the vacuum sysem with the car off and some "cling wrap" over the air inlets and it does OK for what it cost ~ $15 to build. I only pressurize it to about 4-5 pounds though. I was looking for smoke coming out of any vacuum leaks. SnapOn has a really nice one that does a better job but it costs about $3K.

I put Herculiner on there about 3-4 years ago and it is still holding up pretty well. I think I used a gallon and a quart and have about 4 layers on there. Make sure your prep it well though.

Why not just re-build the carb you currently own? Usuallyu it is the thottle plate bushings.

Easy. They work every where but here.

A quick side question since I am here anyway.... :brows: I used a cork gasket last time and set it in Hylomar to keep it in place while I was installing it. Seems to work but it has been about 3 years and 30,000 miles..... Do you use any sort of "locktite type" product on the hold down bolts? I check the torque on mine about every other oil change and they all seem to work themselves loose. Are they supposed to use a lock washer?

Sorry to dig up an old post but has anyone ever tried these for valve cover gaskets? http://www.realgaskets.com/files/automobile.htm I need to deal with mine (again) soon.

I would say invest in having someone who knows something about cars check it out front to back and get it up on a lift to look on the underside. Have them check everything including the suspension, brakes, rust issues, and for oil leaks. Easily worth a couple of hours of the shop time.

I use these gauges in my other car. They are kind of nice in that you can set them to "flash" at a predetermined XXXº so you do not have to watch them all of the time. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/ ... prd365.htm

Ever test the residual fuel pressure?

Just about the first oil ever found in this country was in PA. Thus the names Penzoil, Quaker State, etc. This is in Bradford, PA and it is green in color.

Mucho appreciado.

So where do you buy it down there? I have to go to Wayland tomorrow.

I stand corrected. Here is some pretty good reading on different oil aspects, but keep in mind that most aircooled run significantly higher oil temps than anything we would expect to see on a Jeep. My new bus engine is getting the Brad Penn. http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html http://www.rdtlabs.com/Presentations/oi ... /frame.htm

I personally do not use Fram filters but I have to ask.... These Fram guys have been building all sorts of filters for a long time now. They must know how to do it better and at least as well as WIX/Mahle/and the other guys. I am sure they also must have some sort of QA/QC department there and can read what is written about them. Is it a money thing so that they can sell them for a couple of bucks cheaper at Walmart? Why do they even bother make crap when they could make a quality part that could sell for more money? They would probably sell more of them if they were any good. I guess I just don't understand it.

NAPA Gold/WIX and Mobil 1 10-30 every 5K. I would go to Brad Penn oil for the zinc, but I don't want to clog up my cat converter.

I am not sure at what pressure the factory sending unit light comes on or what the thread pitch is but something like this might work to confirm what the pump is really putting out. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Last Labor Day I was driving back from the midwest in the Comanche and in numerous places, people were taking pictures of my little daily driver. I know they are not common, but still not rare. And I thought I did not get out much! I did have a nice chat with a guy about 70 in Ohio who had a sweet FC 170 all cherried out and was using the huricane 6 in it. He had done all of his own work and I thought that was pretty impressive. Now that was rare.

Well I don't have much but this is where I got it..... http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/Renix_ ... Manual.pdf Page 41/46 Thanks go to great lakes for putting that up! Here is a handy website for comparing various tire sizes.... http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

At 1000 miles, your new rings should be broken in by now. I am still learning the Renix FI set up myself, but there should be a way to measure the output of the O2 sensor using a volt ohm meter att eh wiring harness to see if it is sending the correct voltage (I want to say that it should be in the order of 0.5 volts) output to the FI ECU saying "too rich". Sometimes they get "lazy" if they have been run too rich for too long. Sometimes, if you have used a "non-sensor safe" RTV sealant somewhere that will also throw it off. You can also do a check of the injector spray pattern to see if it is atomizing the fuel correctly. When I get home I will attach a link to the Renix FI troubleshooting pages, but I don't have it handy right now. Compare the diameter of the 31" tires to the stiock size you have to see how far it is throwing off the odometer. Example, if you are running a 31x10.50x15 tire it will throw off the odometer by about 14.27% over the stock 205/75/15.

Sorry, but if I were going after a guy with at least one known machine gun, I would at least want a SWAT team to go in first. I have had one of these gun wackos pull a gun on me before for no reason and I didn't care for it. Most of them don't care if they kill you anyway.

If it were me: 1) I would first do a compression test to see what kind of shape the engine is in. If compression is leaking out someplace, a leak down test will isolate it. 2) Have a look at the tires to see how close they are to the stock size. Too tall will really gear it up too much and will also throw off the speedo. 3) Correct tire pressures are important. 4) If you jack it up, do the brakes drag? 5) Are you leaking gas somewhere or is your gas cap not correct? Is your fuel pressure correct? Spark plugs black? Got any vacuum leaks?

I dug up this old post and found that my dash light/tail lights were "el bunko" at the harness connector behind the drivers side rear wheel. Great tip. I never read it before because they worked before. The Search button really is your friend. The harness was actually a gelatinous mass and we just replaced it with a gernaric one we found at the FLAPS.

I think it falls off. Not good.

Excellent advice above plus you can "see" the richness if you have a wideband exhaust gas analyzer (I use a LM-1), but you will not know which cylinder it is coming from.

When you do a compression test, keep in mind that you have to do it to give you the information that you seek. I like to loosen the torque on the plugs and then start the engine and warm it up, not hot just warm. Remove all of the plugs. Put the testing in #1. Put a brick on the accelerator pedal and pretend you are at wide open throttle position. Using a fully charged battery and a remote startter switch, I let the starter go for 10 compression cycles and write down the number. Then I do it again and write down that number and average them out. I call that the "dry test". Then I remove the compression tester and squirt in about a tablespoon of oil from my oil can, and repeat the test for 10 cycles and write down the number for the "wet test". I repeat the testing (without injecting oil in there) for another 10 cycles and write that number down and average the 2 "wet test" numbers. If the wet tests raise the compression by more than 10-15 pounds, the piston rings are "iffy". If it doesn't, and one of them is still low, the valves are "iffy". A leak down tester will confirm where compression is leaking out of the cylinder also. Just my 2 cents....