Randy in Maine

"Ply rating" is sort of a holdover from the days of bias ply tires. In real life, most tires (including semi tires) anymore just have 2 or 3 plies. Everybody uses the "Load Index" rating number. I am now running LT235/75/15 Load Index 106 tires. (which would be considered a "6 ply truck tire"). They are taller than stock tires (205/75/15) which gears me up some.

Of course the big thing is also that I am running the stock gearing (~ 3.08) and the slower speed. I am not sure how much not having a lift kit helps me gas mileage wise. I don't have cruise conrol although I wish I did.

Those taller than stock tires are throwing off your odometer. Most 31x10.5x15 tires turn about 678 revs per mile (outside circumfrence is about 93.45"). The stock size is 205/75/15 and turns about 766 revs per mile (outside circumfrence is about 82.72"). The change is about 1.129. So your actual trip was likely closer to 3353 miles and you probably got closer to 18.3 mpg when you do the math. I have a 5 speed 4.0 and turn about 2050 RPM doing about 65 mph when I had stock tires. My MJ just likes to run at 65 most of the time. I am OK with that.

Did you account for the taller tires? I use 10% ethanol all of the time, but only drive about 65. I get 21 usually and almost see 22 mpg some of the time. These things are amazingly comfortable tooling down the road.

Any of you guys know anything about these? I am thinking about getting one (used) with a 10' mason dump body to use as a snow plow. I think they are sort of prone to frame rust and wiring connection problems. 4 cylinder turbo diesel. Lock hubs. They seem only a little bit more streetable than a Unimog. Pretty rugged and slow. I think they are pretty durable though. Any of you guys ever have one or work on them? Know of a comanche club type of forum for them?

Update.... my fix it guy tells me I need a new radiator. Would I be best to get one with a real radiator cap? If so, which one? Thanks!

Put a quart in there and drive it about 50 miles before you change it out. Mostly a detergent in this application. Hydraulic lifters like nice clean oil and a good filter with a check valve to prevent drain down.

I relayed the coolant burping and cap number information to "my guy". We shall see how that goes. They are pretty good over there. I was pretty sure I had the system pretty well burped as to not trap any air in there. I agree though that it is a tough system to burp completely.

I have the black plastic factory cap on the reservoir. I bought it and the reservoir from the dealer last summer.

Well perhaps it is not fixed. As I drive down the road for about 1/2 hour at 65, the engine will overheat and start barfing out coolant of the reservior bottle. There is about 1" of coolant in the reservior bottle when cold I had to tow it to my shop guy since I was not close to home. Any thoughts about what I should tell him to do? I figure he will check the thermostat & the water pump. RIght now my coolant lines go from the engine > "in side" of the heater core > the "out side" of the heater core > the side of the plastic reservoir > out the bottom hole of the reservoir > back to the engine. Is this the preferred routing? Thanks!

I use a Thule Xsporter for my Jeep. They are really well made & I bought mine on CL for about 1/2of that retail price. I use it for my kayaks and canoes beside ladders and lumber. Good to about 450 pounds. http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/82870?productId=1376600&attrValue_0=Not%20Applicable&mr:trackingCode=69F66779-7B9C-E311-B8AB-90E2BA285E75&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mkwid=YRPYegJY_dc&pcrid=55725345680&qs=3091386_google&product=0PCQ600000&cvosrc=cse.google.0PCQ600000&cvo_crid=55725345680

Fixed. I replaced all of the hoses and changed out the coolant while I was doing it. You could almost roast a pig in the passenger seat if you had to. Serious BTUs. Thanks!

I would like to reuse this topic. I have noticed that my charcoal canister has a broken off line. Can a new one be purchased anywhere including the dealer? Would a junkyard one be a waste of money? MIne has over 200K on it and I don't know if it is worth trying to screw in a metal line with threads in there or not.

Thanks guys! I think I am on to an improvement.

Well that didn't go well. I removed the vacuum gizmo (dremel tool) and flushed the heater core a couple of times using CLR and hot water. Now hot water goes through the heater core (from the bottom port) and out through the upper port. From there it goes into a "T" with one side of the T going to the overflow tank and the other side going back to the engine/water pump. I don't think I am getting water running back to the water pump for some reason. I do get hot air out of the heater for about a mintue and then it goes cold again, but I am overheating. I wonder if Y would be better than a T. Usually when I dink with the coolant, I just run it up to temp a few times with the overflow cap off and it bleeeds air out of the system that way. Suggestions?

Very good I shall remove it this weekend. Just curious....where does that little vacuum line come from?

1990 4.0L. No temp to the heater. Fluids are correct. I still have the little vacuum gizmo on the heater control, but it won't hold a vacuum if it is supposed to. Should it? I am willing to replace the heater core, but I would rather replace that gizmo first if it needs it.

Well it is looking like 35 or 36 psi is working the best for me based on the chalk across the tire tread. 30 psi gains me nothing, less would be worse, more seems to wear about 1" along the center of the tire. I am going for the 35 psi.

That's much too high. It should be 30, or maybe even 28. According to my '88 MJ factory service manual, the recommended tire pressure is 30 psi for sizes P205/75R15 through P225/75R15 ... and 33 psi for P195R15 The door jam on mine says to use 30 psi for P series 215/75/15s. I have done that for the past 150K with good luck , but with these 6ply rated tires, I am considering going up a bit on the pressure to allow me to take advange of the stiffer sidewalls.....not to the 52 psi they will take but up a little bit to about 35 or so.

An update.. All mounted and balanced and seem to work well (I only have about 10 miles on them). I am fussing around with the tire pressures and right now I am running about 36 psi in them. I will play around with the pressure for a while. I could tell they were a little stiffer on the turns and a little more geared up on the turnpike vs the stock 215/75/15s.

My 90 has about 220K on it. Daily driver when I don't car pool. Next year I will buy a used Mitsubishi Fuso FG though even though I really don't need a big truck..

I decided to go with the Nexen Roadian AT tires. Probably overkill for a Comanche as they are 6 ply rated. $105 a pop. I shall let you know how I like them when they get mounted up in about 10 days.

Thanks Eagle! I will consider the Goodyear Wranglers. Stay warm my friend!!

Well I am pulling this thread back from the dead. I have always been a Michelin LTX M/S guy, but alas they do not make them in my stock 215/75/15 size anymore. This set went over 80K in the past 8 or 9 years with not even a flat, but now they are all cracked on the inside. Plenty of tread left. I drive on the road only unless I really do something stupid. 3.07 gears. 1990 4.0L 5 speed 4WD. I am thinking Falken Wild Peak HTs in 225/75/15 for $88 x 4 + shipping and mounting. Better part of $500. Load index of 102. Standard load tire though, not C rated. Can you suggest something else you like?

I have this set up and really have enjoyed it...... http://www.autoanything.com/truck-racks/thule-xsporter-pro-500-truck-rack I bought mine still new off CL for about 3 bills. It will hold about 450 pounds. It will hold my two 14' yaks and a 17 foot Old Town canoe very securely. I intend to buy one of these in the near future though so that I can tow it behind my VW bus (so I can still pop the poptop)... http://www.maloneautoracks.com/microsport-saddleup.php