Randy in Maine

No teflon tape around the sender as it screws in there please. It needs to ground to the engine block.

I am good to go. My buddy in CT helped me out!

WTB I need the 2 screws that allow me to adjust the headlights and the spring for the headlight buckets. I need both sides. 1990 MJ. Zip Code 04063 PM me and lets do it.

Fixed. I improved the grounds and replaced the headlight wiring harness. It was the harness. Took a couple of hours and it was a done deal.

I thought they looked a little dim and the reason was that they are not on. High beams work if I hold the turnsignal lever "up". I figure it is likely the switch. Before I complain too loudly let me me point out that the real problem is me. I have owned theis thing since 2001 and have put over 120 K on it and have done mostly nothing to improve the set up. I have printed out this little godsend from here... http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ and I am ordering up all of the stuff from NAPA tomorrow to improve the grounds and wiring harness to hopefully fix the problem. I think it is really the switch.

I did most of those changes at the same time back in 2002 and it went from about 16mpg or so to "touching 22 mpg" stil today. More importantly it really did not idle well and was sluggish getting up to speed when I got it. That was the most immediate change. Here is link top the cruzin site....back when I did it I think it was about $15 x 6 injectors. Might be a few bucks more these days. http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html

My Comanchee ('90 4.0L with 5 speed and 3.08s) was not really driven for a few years before I got it. The things I have done to improve my fuel economy over the past 12 years include: Went to stock sized tires (215/75/15) properly inflated and correctly aligned. Sent my injectors off to have them cleaned and calibrated. I use www.cruzinperformance.com but there are others. Went to NGK triple ground plugs. Fixed all of the vacuum leaks I had. Changed out the O2 sensor. I get about 21-22 mpg in over all driving, but I just go 65 mph (speed limit here).

Me too. Has anyone figured out how to make one that does actually work? Would another set up bolt right in there?

Well the testing confirmed that the IAC was indeed faulty. Replaced it for $65 and now it is running well again. Not a lot of carbon in there. With 212K miles I don't think the warranty will cover it. Thanks for the advice. It was spot on.

I have not looked at them yet, but will be soon. I will post up "the fix" in a couple of days.

Well I will certainly have a look at that to see if that is the problem. Thank you!

Well I have downloaded this and willhead over to the fix it guy's place with my VOM and do a little diagnostics on my own. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=c3c53278e61f21f919d3e084737fceaf&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jeepforum.com%2Fforum%2Ff11%2Ftech-faq-links-tsbs-89273%2F&v=1&libId=2fe001e0-b2a6-487f-b47a-59a065bfac50&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lunghd.com%2FTech_Articles%2FEngine%2FBasic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jeepforum.com%2Fforum%2Ff11%2F&title=Tech%2FFAQ%20links%20and%20TSBs.%20-%20JeepForum.com&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lunghd.com%2FTech_Articles%2F...iagnostics.htm&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_137306200286510

I am a1990 MJ 4WD 4.0L longbed 5speed all pretty much stock. It has been running pretty well lately. Last week I changed the plugs, cap and rotor, changed the oil and have about 60 mles on it since. Has been running a bit smoother and pushing about 22 mpg. Today I was doing some errands and all of a sudden it just died on me, Tach went to zero like I had shut off the key. I pulled over and had a quick look under the hood and nothing seemed to be amiss. I restarted it and the engine went to 2500 RPMs and just stayed there. I shut if off and repeated it about 3 or 4 times and the same 2500 RPMs. I looked to see if the acceperator pedal was hung up or something and it was not. I had it towed to my "fix it guy". I am sort of leaning to a problem with the throttle positoning switch or something similar but not sure if I have one or where it might be located. I would buess it would be on the front side of the throttle body where there are 2 electrical connections. Can someone point me in a direction to fix the problem?

Suggestion... I just did this on my MJ and spent a few minutes to clean the connections at the starter relay, the battery cables, and the actual starter connections. I like to use some stuff called "DeOx" (from the local HVAC supply store) and I like to use that on the electrical connections to prevent oxidation at those key spots. I ended up buying new cables (battery to ground and battery to starter) at the same time. $60 well spent.

450 miles on my 23.5 gallon tank (however that was when I first had my injectors cleaned/calibrated at cruzinperformance.com and with new NGKs plugs with the triple grounds) about 90K miles ago. Coming home from Denver driving across Neb at a pretty steady 65 mph. I routinely do about 400 before I fill up, so that was a bit further than I wanted to go but I did have a 5 gallon can in the back with not much load on. I get about 21.2 mpg usually.

I think I will just stay with my NAPA Gold ones (made by WIX). I have never had any issues with them.

Not sure what the problem, was but I replaced the battery cables (the pos was pretty corroded on the inside) and cleaned the connections at the starter relay. She fired right up. Thanks!

Very good. I will be poking around in there this weekend. Thank you. This little truck is actually a pretty good little daily driver. I have had it for about 10 years now, put about 100K on it, and really have done little to the engine side of things. It still gets 21 mpg and drives well down the road. I will post my "fix" when that happens.

Very good. I am hoping the new cables will solve my problem. Why do they seem to rot out under the sheath so you cannot see there is a problem? (Rhetorical question..no answer needed) Do these things even have a starter relay and if they do where is it located? :dunno:

Oh and the starter is a nice new Bosch unit. I figured it was the bad thing so I replaced it first (even though the orignal is likely still good). The truck has about 200K on it and it was the original. I am replacing the battery cables tonight with the new good ones since they are original also. When I put the new starter in, I also put some "De-Ox" on the terminals including where the little green wire attaches to try to keep that getting good voltage also.

I don't wish to hijack this thread, but my starter just emits one "click"and does not turn the engine over. I can push start it, pop the clutch, and it runs fine. Just no start through the key. I have correct voltage at the battery, starter is acutally good, cables clean and tight. If there is a starter relay in here someplace, could someone tell me where it is, and just what it looks like? What is the test to test it? I am not sure just what the ceramic looking resister over on the drivers fender is for, but the connections to it (the orange/black and orange wires) are good clean and tight. Thank you!

I am pretty sure it would take them out if it was shorting out.

Check the wiring connection under the truck behind the driver. Sort of a weak spot there.

Yes, but residual fuel puressure in the fuel rail is maintained by check valves in both the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump. Leaking injectors or fuel fittings may or may not be the problem here. Tell us how you tested it.

Might want to check the fuel pressure regualtor before you buy new injectors.