mvusse

To properly set up a ring and pinion gear set takes a person who knows what they are doing and a number of specialty tools, no matter if they are new or used. Most shops charge $500-$800 to do this. Spider gears can be taken out of a junk yard axle and tossed in, ring and pinion are a whole different beast.

That Allen looking screw might be a tension pin. You drive it out with a thin drift (I made one out of a screwdriver with the head ground off) and a hammer. But if you're missing ring gear bolts and a tooth on the pinion gear I agree with Pete. Start looking for a replacement axle.

That is the 2002 through 2007 models. The newer KK Liberties (2008 through 2012) are 5 on 5 just like the new Grand Cherokee and the JK Wrangler. Don't know what 2013 will bring.

When I lost a wheel weight on my Geo Prizm (RIP), the only thing I felt was a vibration that started right around 70mph. But those were dinky little P175/70R13 tires.

If you get the 6" kit, throw the pitman arm and transfer case drop kit in the garbage. With the 4.5" kit, add adjustable upper control arms, throw the transfer case drop kit in the garbage and replace the rear AAL and drop shackles with a set of 4.5" lift springs from Hell Creek. Or just order a kit from Hell Creek, it will use his leaf springs, and IIRC, RC stuff for the front.

Don't know about alloy, but Sparkles is currently running 16" KJ Liberty rims. They are steel with a plastic center cap and come from the factory in silver metallic.

Unless it's been modified with a later style transfer case, you truck has an internally lubricated slip yoke on the rear driveshaft, meaning the splines are lubricated by the transmission fluid circulating through the transfer case. If you drive around without a rear driveshaft it will happily pump out all the fluid which will then most likely cost you a new transfer case as well.

I have had good luck with Wintermark snow tires in size 235/75R15. I used to have 2 on my F100, and I have a set of five I now use on the Purple People Eater in the winter, but were originally bought for Wilbur when it was stock. Very agressive, never go me stuck in snow yet, and they can be studded.

That's about 5 times what the axle is worth, and about as much as it costs to buy a Chrysler 8.25" with matching gear ratio and have it m odified to fit under your truck.

Why are you spending this much time and money on a junk axle that is most likely going to blow up again? When I replaced my D35 I gave it away for free. Most other people around here sold theirs for $30 scrap metal price.

Flogged it. Hard. Front driveshaft lost a u joint clip up in the double cardan joint, causing it to walk around and knock my transfer case linkage off somewhere in a trail, so all weekend I had to crawl underneath to shift it. Installed spare front driveshaft, then last night two buddies borrowed it to go fetch his Toyota that tore all the bolts out of the steering knuckle after a rollover and returned it with a broken front axle shaft... Replaced it this morning and played all day again.

I have roughly 8" of lift in the rear of my lwb. I'm not anywhere near needing a SYE yet. Also, if that 8.25" has 29 spline axle shafts, I wouldn't bother upgrading to an 8.8. I run a 29 spline 8.25" with 35" tires, and for the last year and a half with a lunch box locker. Even doing a rear wheelstand while the axle was hopping didn't damage it. It did break my driveshaft, though :oops: AFAIK, Iron Rock Offroad does not make anything Comanche specific, so I'm guessing you're getting the Cherokee kit. All the front stuff will work, the rear will not. Instead, do a SOA swap in the rear. The back will probably sit a bit higher than the front, but that all depends on how badly your leaf springs have sagged over the years and how tall the 5.5 front spring really are. Most people pair up a rear SOA with 6.5" front lift. You will need a longer rear driveshaft.,

What engine was in the Dakota? If it had a 2.5, people on here may want it to fit an AX15 behind their 2.5.

Took my girlfriend for a walk through the local pull-a-part today. No tools, just window shopping, although I did get a third captain's seat for my camper van with the correct quick disconnect floor bracket, but that doesn't matter right now. Checked out just about every 8 lug vehicle there, trucks, vans, dodge, ford, gm for ideas to match the D60 in my shop that will eventually go under the MJ. Decided I don't want a ff 14 bolt, huge, will cost me too much ground clearance, and way stronger than I believe I need. Don't want to spend the money shaving it. Don't want a D70 either, as they are equally huge. Was thinking a sf 14 bolt (baby 14 bolt, cheater 14 bolt), but limited selection of lockers available. E-locker supposedly not very reliable. Some fords had huge rear axles (might have been a Sterling, or mayby Dana 70 or 80?) I thought were way bigger than I want. Some fords had smaller ones (Dana 60, maybe Sterling?). Don't know much about what Fords used in the rear over the years or what the Sterling looks like exactly, especially what it compares to in in size, although with a 10.25" or 10.5" ring gear I assume about as big as a D70 or ff 14 bolt. I think a D60 would be pently strong with a lot of aftermarket support. What would I most likely find an 8 lug D60 rear with 4.10 gears in? Any other axles I should consider? Availability of lockers for them? Preferably not too terribly large, and easy to find in a jy. Must be 8 lug pattern, but not the funky metric (8 x 170mm?) that the Sterling 10.50" uses.

Then why were we not supposed to sit on said tan couch?

I believe I still have a passenger front door (actually, all 4 doors) panel from a 96 XJ Sport. Gray, short arm rest, no map pockets, does have speaker grill, vinyl top, carpet bottom. No hole for window crank as it had power windows, but it should be easy to cut a hole if needed. Will try to remember to double check at the shop tomorrow.

There used to be a couch, although I believe it smelled like pee. Might have got lost in the move to the new software.

I know on a 4 cylinder it is possible as I have done it twice now. Some are easier to reach from the top, some are easier to reach from the bottom, have a good transmission jack handly and some way to raise the vehicle and support it afterwards to be able to roll the transmission jack with the transmission on it out from under the vehicle. Not too much to it, just take your time, make sure you have all the bolts removed, all the linkages popped off, all the wires unhooked etc. Also make sure the back of the engine is supported as without a transmission there is nothing holding it up.

I would suggest getting the transfer case from the same vehicle the transmission came from. That way you knwo the transfer case will bolt up to it because in addition to the 21 spline/23 spline difference, the transfer case could have 3 different length input shafts depending on transmission. You also don't have to the the swap all at once. Swap in the front axle one weekend. Swap in the transmission and transfer case a different weekend. If you use one out of a newer Cherokee with the externally lubricated driveshaft you can use the truck in front wheel drive without a rear driveshaft installed. Do make sure you have the correct pilot bearing to fit an AX15 to an engine that had a Puegeot earlier. Oh yeah, when you get the transmission and transfer case, get the front driveshaft from the same vehicle as well. Again, these come in different lengths based on transmission. Measure carefully and have your 2wd rear drive shaft cut down to the correct length and rebalanced whenever.

Transmission is securely bolted to the engine. Even if the transmission completely came loose from the mount it would still be attached to the engine and wherever is goes, the engine would go with it to keep it aligned. Possible causes for a slipping clutch: -clutch worn out -too much load (I actually had this happen towing a loaded box truck out of a loading dock when it broke down in 6" of snow. Halfway to the warehouse to work on it I hit 3rd gear and it started slipping. This was in 4-lo with the pedal to the floor). -blue flywheel from clutch slipping previously. Usually due to not knowing how to drive a clutch -low fluid pressure, this could be a problem with the master or slave cylinder or a leaky line. Believe I've covered all the bases here. If you had to brake hard, hot (overheated) brakes do smell similar to a slipping clutch.

I have gotten 24mpg out of a Renix cruising 60 mph. Above that speed it drops off in a hurry. Best I have gotten out of an HO was 22, but that was going 70. At 60 I was only getting 21.

May of last year. Broke my front Aussie in September, back in action in November, took a few months off and started up again March of this year. Grenaded another entire front axle including the locker again, swapped in a non disconnect from a 96 XJ, two days later I ripped off half the driver side lower control arm mount, folding the other half up like an accordion, replaced it with some 1/4" thick tabs and now the passenger side upper control arm mount (the one part that has allways scared me about non disconnect housings) is starting to tear. Broke a few axle shafts this year, replaced a few bad unit bearings and a front driveshaft, picked up a high pinion kingpin D60 for $200 in a junk yard but need to save up $1500 for wheels and tires before I can even think of putting it under the truck. Last trip out I bent the entire trailer hitch and buckled the one corner of it, so I removed it. Still need to do something for a rear recovery point now. Also removed the remains of the driver side outer bed skin, but haven't had time to do the other side. Plans for this winter are to lose the bed altogether, flip the rear springs around (short side to the back) but keeping the wheel base the same and hacking off a foot or more off the frame. Custom bed just large enough for a fuel cell (or stock tank), tool box, cooler and mount the spare tire back there somewhere as well with room left for a fire extinguisher and a power tank.

Your current engine has a flywheel on it. For an automatic transmission you need a flex plate instead. The 91 being an HO and yours being a Renix means you can swap the flex plate from the donor, but will have to find an older one somewhere else. You may also need the transmission wiring harness and I'm assuming that again the HO one out of the 91 won't plug into your Renix engine bay harness. Supposedly a 91 transmission will work with a 90 or older TCU, but you will have to splice some wires, but the 91 TCU may not work with your 98 electronics. And no. 10 hours is WAY out of the question. Starting Friday afternoon, count on at least an entire weekend to have it all done except the rear driveshaft. Then Monday measure for the rear driveshaft and take your current 2wd one to a shop to have it shortened and rebalanced.

That is definitely in my area, but not one I have seen before. I have a black/gray/rust/holes/dents trail pig and a purple and silver daily driver. There are also a pretty nice blue one and red one in the area as well as a rust with holes black one. Recently a guy near Beach City bought an ok condition tan one from his son. All of those are stock on 29" or smaller tires. Those are the only ones I know of around here.

Don't believe the Comanche was ever available with a carbed 2.5, unless that's what they got in 86. I know in 87 it was TBI.