mvusse

I have somewhat the same problem. I run stock 15x7 rims with 235/75 tires on a 4.5" lift. The set up is perfect for the front fenders as I can stuff the tires without rubbing issues, and with the after market lcas I don't rub them either when I max out the steering as I did with the stock ones. But flex is limited by the upper rear tire being pushed against the inner fender. I have run spacers on my Suburban for a few years now, including hauling up to 6,000 pounds of drywall and towing a 12,000 pound backhoe trailer carrying a Bobcat without ill effects. I realize the spacers aren't DOT approved, but I also realize my exhaust is not EPA approved and I doubt my suspension is DOT either. So I'm getting spacers for the rear wheels as well. Somewhere in the 1"-1,5" range. I didn't speak up earlier because when I mentioned spacers before (a few months ago) a number of people jumped on my back over it and I didn't feel like stirring the pot again.

Only time I've used chains was in wet clay in spring in northern Ontario, on a school bus as well as a K10 with front and rear lockers. I don't know how well they work on snow and ice, but they work miracles in wet clay.

My '84 98 was a Regency Brougham. My first car and I loved it dearly. To this day I'm still sorry I wrecked it.

Which is why I typed ExploDer. :roll:

As the Bronco has not been around since the mid 90s, I'm assuming he means 03 Exploder.

Never thought of that, but great idea. Done!

Wow! haven't seen that movie in like 15 years! Well, a jackpot winning lottery ticket would be nice, but I'll settle for 5 33x12.5 M/Ts on 15x8 Soft 8s. Or a rust and dent free lwb bed.

My way has been easier yet the last two years. I put them up 3 years ago, and never bothered to take them down. Run an extension cord through a timer and presto!

Yesterday I delivered some furniture to Herndon (?) and Alexandria, VA. Drove through OH, WV, PA, MD, DC and VA. The only other times I've been in that many states in 1 day was going to FL for vacation. Anyway, what I was promised was a 300 mile trip taking 6 hours on the road and 1 hour to unload turned into a bit more. I left at 1:15am to be back before my daughter got out of school with extra time left just in case. By 8:30 (more than 7 hours already) I was on I270 stuck in rush hour traffic. Called the store that sold the furniture and who's driver got snowed in on his attempt to pick it up (I work in the shop that built it) and get no answer. So I called the store owner at home. "Oh, we don't start until 10 and by the time I can get some people together we won't be at the customer's house until 10:30." (it takes 4 people to unload a monstrous 300 pound plus hutch). WFT, now I got to kill 90 minutes and I already know I won't make it home before 7:30 instead of the 2:30 I'd hoped. So I spend 60 minutes getting lost to try to find a little park, Scotts Run Nature Preserve, and do some geocaching in the rain. I then head off to the customre's house right on time while getting a call from the store owner that he's about 20 minutes behind me. It seems that rush hour goes past 10:30 here as everything is still gridlocked. They finally arrive 45 minutes later, at 11:15. Get most of the stuff unloaded (1 table goes to the store, which I didn't know about), and the home owner had a loaner table which also has to go back to the store. Guess who has the only box truck? So it's 12:15 and instead of heading home, I got to make another stop. Oh, and DC and surrounding area is STILL gridlocked. Finally leave the store at 1 and find an alternate round that should have taken much longer (route 7 west (which has 100+ traffic light over a 30 mile stretch,) to 15 north to get back to I70 west), but actually saves me time because the area is STILL gridlocked. About 5 miles from Leesburg traffic finally starts to mover normally. Made it back to the truck rental place at 9:30pm with the trip meter at 801 miles and home at 9:45. Then picked my daughter up at the roller skating rink, picked up my pay check and dropped off receipts for the tripand made it to bed at midnight. In 43 hours I had slept 3. Feel much better now after a full night's sleep. Thanks for letting me rant and Merry Christmas to all. Or Happy Holidays for the non-Christian crowd.

I've haven't seen any other Comanches driving around Costa Mesa. :D How can you with all that snow? Assuming it's 4wd, with good snow tires (or M/T), chains and lockers front and rear. My 4WD Suburban with rear locker and new ATs went through powder higher than the hood now problem until the radiator got blocked by packed snow up against the AC condenser and it started to overheat. Wet stuff takes a bit more traction.

Have not done so myself yet, but many others have. I will before the next wheeling trip, as I lost my vacuum lines on the trail last time. Took me more than 1/4 mile before I realized my front axle was not pulling...

That's an okay bike, but I think I'd like the green one better. With the sidecar attached, of course.

Ummm, I think your oil filter is missing.

The squeeling could also be from the new alternator's bearings if you tightened the belt too tight.

I don't think binding is an issue on ice. But with all four wheels locked up, sliding, I have no clue what the clicking sound could be.

How do you know the engine is good. Did you hear/see it run, or are you taking the sellers word?

I'm guessing at the vac disco system in the axle. Might be a vacuum leak. Easiest way to fix the problem would be to disconnect the vacuum lines, and shim the fork to always be engaged.

If you have the ability to over/underclock it, turn down the CPU bus speed a bit. The CPU might be starting to go bad, or might be running hot from a seizing or seized fan and/or dirty heat sink. If you have spare parts laying around, just keep swapping parts until you fix it. In my experience the more likely candidates are memory (already checked), CPU, motherboard, video card. But it could be 100 other things too.

With the 5 speed, won't hist stock gears be 3.07? I though 3.55 was only for the auto.

I got a carter from Advance for like $95, including new sock (have to buy seperate for $10 for some brands), hose, clamps, bushings and stuff. Princes in Canada are higher, though. Probably best off to get a mail order one from Rock Auto. Granted, I've had some experience over the past few months, but I bet I can change over a pump in about 20 minutes, assuming the tank is no more than half full, no need to remove the drive shaft or the fuel tank. Heck, I just replaced my entire gas tank including sender unit (which took taking the pump off the old one and installing on the new one) in 45 minutes. Biggest PIA was the hose clamp on the filler vent tube.

Don't know about the cup holders, but the 2wd part can be fixed quite easily by using parts off a Cherokee. And Cherokees are everywhere. The only issue is the rear drive shaft, and you'd probably be best off by having a shop cut your current rear drive shaft down to the shorter length needed for 4wd. Oh, and welcome!

Replaced the gas tank with a like new one.

Well, after it sitting in my yard for like a month I finally put the new tank on. $50, not a speck of rust and the sender unit came with it! I thought my old tank had been leaking near the top and I was right. The rubber grommets around both vents had rotted away, allowing gas to spill out the top. Hopefully this tank is better. I also decided to use the sender unit that came with this tank, so I switched the pumps over (why do they ALL seem to come with a 4 cylinder pump?), but now I have to get used to the new sender. I do know with the short arm, anything over 3/4 full will read full, but empty will hopefully read empty. My old one full read a bit more than, but after driving 5 days with the low fuel light on and the gauge AT empty, the tank still had 5 gallons of gas in it... And sorry, no pics. Forgot to take the camera to work.

Yeah, the AX15 is a good transmission; the Peugot (called Puke-Goat by some) is a piece of crap not worth the metal it's made out of. :roll: I would replace it with an AX15, except I think you need to do something about the pilot bearing. Someone who's done it please chime in.

Looks like 3 factory insulators stacked on top of each other, then a 1.75" after market spacer, then another factory insulator.