mvusse

5-260x are 1 1/16", 5-297x and 5-760x ($30 stronger upgrade/swap for the 297) are 1 3/16". I believe all 97 and up came with the larger ones, as well as latter part of 96. Earlier 96 and older only if it has anti lock brakes, or have been swapped by PO. Correct me if I'm wrong, as my memory has been a bit rusty lately. Since you measured 1", I'm assuming they are 1 1/16" and thus the smaller 5-260x ones.

Don't know about what bolts up, but 4.10 gears sound awfully steep for a diesel.

Wish I had $1500 :brows: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=20084

Auxiliary fan should come on above 210 degrees, I believe. Up to 245 degrees is within operating specs, ~195 is nominal. What do you call "really hot" and "way too hot"?

Tank is probably galvanized steel. You can paint it if you like, but it won't make much of a difference if you don't.

I had the same problem. After 3 pumps in relatively short order I just wiped the tank clean with a towel and picked up any itty bitty pieces of gravel left in it. Then put a new sock on the last bad pump, and it turns out the pump is fine. Still fine almost a year after I barely managed to limp into my parents' drive way going 20mph bucking and backfiring. A plugged up sock makes the pump run loud and flow less fuel. No way to diagnose between a plugged sock and a bad pump without replacing the sock to try it.

My MJ says "XF", my XJ (HO) doesn't have a 2 letter code in that corner.

Bench seat? I thought it was funny looking couch. Smells funny too. Must need new glasses.

My FS Chevy (94 Suburban) didn't have selectable hubs either. It had a central axle disconnect, driven by a gas filled cylinder with a heating coil. Nothing like driving through deep snow, or crossing a creek and having your front axle disengage due to the cylinder retracting. TSB called for replacement with an linear actuator.

Few less deer to worry about on the way to work from now on. Boss' son shot two of them this morning. Boss asked him what he was thinking. Not enough freezer space for 3 deer worth of meat...

I have seen two vehicles that hit a 1500 pound moose. One was a ford escort.Roof was even with the hood, wheels had broken off, moose walked away. The other one was a cab forward semi towing a loaded log trailer. The grill ended up 6 feet back from the windshield. That one killed the moose, though. Largest road kill I ever seen. I've never hit one, but seen and dealt with plenty in my younger years up north. Stupidest animals I know off. Even less brains than Holstein dairy cattle.

Yup, the famous "Flintstones brake option". Almost all Comanches (and Cherokees of the same age) have it. Only southern trucks seem to be exceptions. Easiest way to fix it would be to buy new floorboards, angle grinder with cutting wheel, aviation snips, and optionally a jig saw or sawzall. Cout out all the rust, cut floor and/or floorboards to get the floorboards to fit, and glue them in. If you have access to a welder and know how to weld, weld them in. Then use bed liner on both sides of the floor (inside and out) to help prevent it from rusting out again.

How do extended shackles kill leaf springs? I just don't see the physics behind that statement. Longer shackles do mess with the pinion angle, though.

:rotf: :laughin:

Is it an 88, or an 86? Only the 86 ever came with a V6, 2.8l (bad). 88 came with inline 4, 2.5l or inline 6, 4.0l (good).

Secret when drilling steel is SLOW speed on the drill, steady pressure, and lots of oil. Drill press at 250 rpm works great.

Yes, ZJ pitman provide about 1" drop over MJ/XJ ones. No need for this on a 4 link set up like we run, unless it fixes aignment angles between the steering arm and track bar. It also gives the steering box more leverage on the frame, and mine already cracked the frame and started pulling bolts through with the stock pitman arm. DW is not affected by the angle of your steering components, thst just affects bump steer. Possibilities are: play in track bar (usually cause by elongated hole in frame mount) bad bushings allowing play in control arms (especially lower) bad tie rod ends bad ball joints wrong toe in A (better/bigger) steering damper is often sold as the fix-all for DW, but it just masks the symptoms and ignores the underlying cause.

IMO a bumper mounted hitch should not be used to tow anything heavier than a wheel barrow. They can be used to tow a cement mixer or log splitter and stuff like that. To tow an actual trailer, even if just a 2000 pound loaded boat trailer, a receiver mount is the only way to go.

SYE is not needed (but still a nice upgrade). Drive line vibes are cause by incorrectly matched u joint angles, not steep angles. On MJs and XJs, the u joint at the slip yoke binds before the axle end. A non issue on Comanches, but on Cherokees this is a problem. YJ slip yokes are a straight swap, are 1/2" longer, and clear a much steeper angle, but again, should not be needed on a Comanche.

I ran 33x12.50 at 4.5" lift and had rubbing issues with even just a bit of lean in turns, like parking lot driving. Tweaking the length of the control arms I could choose between the front of the fender or the rear of the fender. Adding 1.75" spacers in the front solved it, but I ended up cutting anyway to clear when flexed out off road. But then again, I don't consider bump stopping an option.

This guy started out a new site last week, and is asking for more members (and posts) to help get it off the ground. http://str86hojeepforum.messageforums.net/

I got my daughter. She eventually hit ctrl-alt-backspace to kill X (Unix and the like graphical shell). I tried to get her friend, but she gave it away already.

If you don't know what all you need to do it, you'd be better off paying a professional drive train shop to do it. Everything about the gears needs to be set to certain specs with very tight tolerances.

He is a member of JeepSkool as well, but what I meant is he is a Comanche Club member. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=3219