mvusse

I wonder what is hiding under that Maaco paint job.

Laws differ from state to state. In Ohio, if it is totalled out, you can by it back from the insurance company, usually for $100 or so. But you will have a salvage title. To be able to plate it you need to have the truck inspected by the highway patrol to make sure everything works and it is safe to drive. There is a $75 fee for this. Take the inspection papers to the title office, and you will be issued a salvage, repaired title. You can then plate it and drive it, but it will never be a clear title again, which will hurt the resale value. My Cherokee is like that. When the Comanche was hit in the rear corner, the damage was cosmetic only, but lowest estimate to fix it was still $2000. Anything over 80% of book value gets totalled out. I spoke with the adjuster and they would give me $1400, which is more than I had invested in the truck at the time. I was by then already attached to it, so I settled for $1120 (80%) and kept the truck with a clear title. Other alternative would have been $1400-$100 buy back =$1300, fix parking brake (all new cables) for $60 =$1240, then $75 inspection fee and I would have $1165 left over with a salvage repaired title. I then spent that money on a 4.5" lift. The plan was to find a rust free bed down south, but I changed my mind. I will drive it until it falls apart from rust, then try to find a rust free shell down south and move everything over to it.

No carrier needed for 4.10 gears, BUT Any selectable locker will have/be it's own carrier, so the point is moot.

That's better than the guy that decided to try the tazer he bought for his wife on himself.

If you used a Cherokee rear axle without moving the spring perches, fix that before you bend or break springs ot spring mounts. Besides Cherokees being spring over, the spacing between the leaf springs is different. I know Pete has a picture around somewhere that illustrates this.

Tried it at work, using a battery charger instead of a battery. It worked until the lead broke.

From that page, regarding the Mobil 1: So According to the manufacturer the Pur-One has a better filtering capability.

A Mobil 1 filter is the best filter you can buy as far as quality and filtering capability is concerned. You have evidence to back this up? In my OPINION, based on available information regarding countless cut-open and tested filters, the premium Purolater Pur-One filters are the best, so that's what I use.

The bumpers in the first pics are too big and bulky. If you dig the ones I have, I'll gladly trade you my mangled ones for yours.

Thanks, for the pics, that is pretty much along the lines of what I have in mind, but with a winch mount on the front bumper as well. Too big and bulky? I currently have two mangled stock bumpers. Front is bent near each end, rear is just a crumpled pile of metal and rust being held together by the trailer hitch underneath.

I would like to get a Ural some time, but might just forget the sidecar and get a Royal Enfield instead.

My 87 Comanche is vertical, as is my buddy's 90 Cherokee. My 94 Cherokee as well as a friend's 96 are both horizontal.

I did yesterday to make the tow bar attachment. But after I tear into the front suspension, I'd have to walk home. This way I can let the truck sit there tore apart and use the Cherokee to get home or go to the parts store. I'll try to start on it tomorrow, but I don't expect to have it back together until some time after the weekend unless I spend all day there Saturday and Sunday. But I don't believe it is safe to leave a 13 year old girl home alone all day long Saturday, especially since she will probably have one or more friends over. House may not be standing any more if I try that. Last time I left her and her friends by themselves for a few hours she burned out the crossover in one of my speakers playing Britney Spears loud enough to be heard inside 3rd house down the street. And Sunday I'm planning to go the the str86ho meet and greet, which will be a 90 minutes drive each way.

Renix all the way. My HO, even with a stick shift can't touch the mileage of my Renix/auto.

Had an adventure. 6 am: Hooked up tow bar, hitched it to Cherokee, stuck magnetic trailer lights on the roof. Key turned to disable steering lock, transfer case in neutral. Needed 4wd to get started because my rear wheels were on ice and the Pig was frozen to my driveway. Plan is to follow the alley for two blocks to a church parking lot, check things out in the parking lot to decide if it's safe to go the whole 3.5 miles to work. Going down the alley is squirelly, @$$ end of Cherokee moving left and right. Then about to turn into parking lot it starts to jackknife. Get back on the gas to straighten it (reaction without thinking from experience towing trailers), and it keeps going. Steer into the skid (only going about 5 mph) and stop. Am I on ice? Try to get going again, and I squeal the tire. WTF. Get out to investigate and find the Pig's front wheels turned all the way the wrong direction. Straighten out the steering wheel, and pull into the parking lot, but she just does not want to track and follow the Cherokee. Unhook everything, drive the Pig back home, jog back to the church, get in Booger and go to work. On the way to work I start thinking and decide a likely possible cause could be my front Aussie as the transfer case does not have a "true" neutral. Neutral setting connects front and rear drive shafts. 4pm: Hooked up tow bar, hitched it to Cherokee, stuck magnetic trailer lights on the roof. Key turned to disable steering lock, transfer case in 2wd, transmission in neutral. Needed 4wd to get started because my rear wheels were on ice but the Pig was not frozen to my driveway. Plan is to follow the alley for two blocks to a church parking lot, check things out in the parking lot to decide if it's safe to go the whole 3.5 miles to work. Still a bit squirrely, but not as bad as before. Turn into parking lot and Pig tracks, but pushed @$$ end a bit sideways before the front wheels get turned the correct amount. Looped a figure eight and it seems to track decently, so I get on my way. 25mph, and the @$$ end feels too loose to safely go any faster. Even this speed may be too fast. I may have hit 35 at one point in tiime, but mostly 25 the whole way. The steepest hill climb is covered in gravel from the salt trucks, and I spin the whole way up in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Made it just fine, but I can definitely never safely flat tow the (a) Comanche behind the Cherokee. The Cherokee just does not have enough weight on the rear wheels to safely tow a 3500 pound load with 0 tongue weight. Oh how I miss the Suburban!

Fine and filled with grease.

Drove it to work this morning, going no faster than 25mph (DW) and used a $20 piece of 1/4" wall by 2" by 3" angle iron (stuff is $0.40 per INCH!!!) to make a hookup for my tow bar. Good thing work is only 3.5 miles from home. Now tomorrow I can tow it to work with the XJ and leave it there while I spend a few (lot?) of evenings completely tearing down the front suspension and steering as well as inspecting all the attachment points and frame around those to try to track down the current cause of DW. It went from fine to just barely noticed something being off to full on DW at 25mpg or faster with the right bump over the course of three days. This time I have no clue what the cause is. Only obvious thing was a bad balljoint, but replacing it did not solve it. Tie rod ends were pretty bad, so I replaced the entire steering setup from pitman arm to knuckles, upgrading to the beefier V8 ZJ tie rod in the process. Still no change. I want to go wheeling, so I need to get the %^&^&*( back on the road.

From what I've been told, the CV shafts and the 260 joints are about even strength wise. Either way, I'm running 297 axles with 760 u joints.

Buy it now for $10K But the computer is permanently in limp mode...

I don't git it either but we're obviously missing something. I've read it has to be done on several diff builds and on least two gear manufactorers web sites. All I can figure is it has to do with properly setting up tha ring and pinion gears. I think they have to be set up before you can install tha spider gears or a locker. Its a c-clip axle. You have to put the shafts in to get the c clips in, which means the carrier needs to be installed in the axle at that time, so the gear has to go on it first. I forgot to take a picture today, :doh: I'll snap one tomorrow for you. :thumbsup: Doh! I did know that. For some reason I was thinking D30 front axle, which does have a C clip on the disco side, but that clip is optional.

They do have a habit of falling over, but they're also light enough it only takes a few people to roll it back rubber side down again.

:agree: That side is too valuable to put on a truck.

That's really not that bad for a mostly stock suspension. Disconnecting the front sway bar will give you a bit more.

I don't see the problem. Why clearance teeth on the ring gear to allow the cross shaft to fit by. Install the cross shaft, THEN bolt the ring gear on. No grinding necessary. What am I missing?

Only 85 hp, but torque equivalent to the 2.5 (130-135 foot pounds). 30+ mpg, though. I wouldn't mind one of those Italian 2.5l turbo diesels they put in Cherokees overseas. Same hp as the 2.5, with torque on par with the 4.0.