mvusse

I think this is good. If you need something to compare to to get an idea of the height, those are 35" tires.

Gotta work smarter, not harder. Takes too much effort to swing a 10 pound sledge.

I straightened my rear bumper by jacking up the truck by it, then jumping on the tail gate a few times. After that I backed it into a tree a few times. Then I bolted it to my frame mounted hitch to keep it straight.

Turns out it is (was) his rig, and he did sell it. The new owner wheels it at JeepSkool.

Now I know to check the bearings (a quick temp check with hand should suffice) next time it acts like that. The steering left/right I felt evidently was pulling right/not pulling right.

Both my daughter and I are fine. I was amazed how stable the truck was and how easy it was to control even though I was missing a wheel and skiing on the lower ball joint. It seems the bearing ceased, which explains why it was pulling to the right. Once I had it pulled off the road and stopped, the left over part of the outer axle shaft was glowing red for about 10 minutes. Grease was boiling out off the upper ball joint, and the pavement around the knuckle (which had dug in by then) was burning. A friend of mine has most all parts needed to fix it and should have them ready for me to pick up in Cleveland tomorrow evening. With a bit of luck (yeah, right! All my luck us bad luck...) the truck should be back on 4 wheels and drivable by the end of the week.

At least you got to wheel. I made it 30 minutes into my trip to the site before a wheel fell off.

What happened?

Thanks for the offer, but shipping would probably cost more than getting them from pap. By now I probably would have got all the parts there already if a friend in Cleveland hadn't mentioned to he has everything and I can pick it all up tomorrow night. That is my main remaining worry, but by just looking at it it seems okay. I think the suspension soaked up the impact quite well, especially since I have very soft shocks up front that belong on a compact car.

Yeah, all of a sudden the front corner of the truck fell down while I heard a bang and a bunch of grinding. I checked my mirror, followed by looking over my shoulder to see my tire rolling along beside the truck and traffic hitting the brakes clearing the rightmost lane for me, so I just steered over to the side of the road while staying on the gas to keep moving. Once I was off the road I slowed down pretty fast because the knuckle was digging itself into the ground. When I got out grease was boiling out of the upper ball joint, the broke off end of the axle shaft was glowing red, and the pavement around the mostly buried knuckle was on fire. I asked my 13 year old if that adventure was better than going off road (where we were on our way to). Her answer? "No, 'cuz I didn't get to drive." Already have most all parts lined up to fix it. What sucks is that unit bearing was 13 months old with a 12 month warranty. It was an after market Timken hub. There WAS a stub shaft in it, but it snapped off in the process. I knew something was wrong when the truck would pull left and right, but after pulling over and inspecting I wrote it off to play in the axle end mount of the track bar. It did it a few more times, and then it started pulling left pretty good, but I kept going. Had to use more throttle to keep speed going uphill than I remembered, but wrote that off due to a possible low tire. Turns out the hub must have been ceasing. After I pulled over and got going again I was thinking of turning around at the next exit (6 miles from home), but by that time it seemed fine again. 17 miles further down I lost the wheel, costing me a $80 plus tax tow. Need an outer axle shaft, steering knuckle, both ball joints (lower was ground off, upper had the grease boil out), brake calliper, pads and rotor. And possibly the brake hose as the calliper was being dragged along by it. Steering knuckle might be okay, but as hot as it got from skiing on the pavement, I wouldn't trust it any more. May also have bent from the impact.

Wheel fell of going 60 on the freeway. Turns out the unit bearing came apart.

going 60mph in the center lane of a 3 lane freeway? How about in a lifted truck running 8" taller than stock tires? Quite a unique experience.

I recast my vote.

That might be part of it. It is actually possible to stall the Cherokee out on take off. My F100 on the other hand (which she drove when she was 14) you could pop the clutch in second gear and it would pull through. It would lurch a few times, but never stall. Or at least after the engine had warmed up. Up until that point you'd have to adjust the choke constantly just to keep it running.

I taught myself, and never had a problem. I attempted to teach my daughter, but despite me being patient, she is not. I think she just needs more practice, she tells me she's never driving a stick again. If it comes to it she will have her fiancé drive instead.

When I bought my truck the D35 had lasted 21 years and 126,000 miles. I then drove it on 29" tires, wheeled it stock that summer, lifted it, wheeled it again that fall, wheeled it once again in March, upped to 33" tires and took it off road April, May, June, and August. August I bent my drive shaft. Then with the bent drive shaft I wheeled it three more times and put over 1000 more miles on it (at 142,000 now) when I tossed the D35 because the pinion bearings were shot. Shaft now had 1/4" play, which caused the seal to leak oil and the teeth to start grinding. All caused by a bent drive shaft. Installed a 29 spline 8.25", but the D35 is still in my driveway as a back up in case of emergency. Gas mileage isn't what it used to be because of the larger tires, so I don't drive it all that much any more. Still take it wheeling on average more than once a month, though.

At least if you're peeling out, you're probably not burning the clutch :roll:

The tach working should be plug and play. If it came from a 4.0 and went into a 4.0, it should even read correctly without needing adjustments. So either you have a wiring problem, or the tach is broken.

I run 35x12.50 Maxxis Buckshot Mudders. So far they have worked awesome off road, but street mileage is horrible.

I attempted a 25 hour drive straight through, but got sidelined halfway through by a broken front drive shaft (on a full time 4wd, which refused to shift into part time), and a few hundred miles later by overheating issues. I was still young back then. Attempting 25 hours straight through at my current age is likely to kill me. Or at least the stimulants needed to stay awake will.

Wow.

I ran 33s with 6.5" lift and decided to cut my front fenders instead of bump stopping. Travel limited by shocks, lots of flex, it worked well. I got 35s about a month ago, had to cut more on the front fenders, had to cut some on the rear fenders (rear sits at ~8"), but not really noticeable, and now the inside of the front fenders is in the way. Can't cut that. There are no sharp edges to cut my tires, but I will still have to bump stop. One of these days I will stuff the tire up against the top of the wheel well tight enough that it can't turn with a front locker that will force it to turn and blow an axle shaft or u joint. But I love my tires.

Supposedly the CV axles are about equal, strength wise, to the 260 u joints. But they are higher maintenance.

Canada won.

Flipping to it once in a while. I did catch that last one, though.