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Everything posted by james750
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4 low shifting problems
james750 replied to 88MJofficer's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The vacuum disconnect in your axle has nothing to do with the t case engaging, the vac disco axle just engages the axle hubs. I bypassed my CAD by locking the fork in the left position, and i can still go from 4 to 2 wheel drive. The axle gears are still spinning though there is no power going to them. It is exactly like leaving the manual lock in hubs locked in in a truck and putting it in 2wd. Have you tried driving it around a bit and then locking it in? it could be that the low range gear can't go in. does it go into the neutral tcase gear? -
with the 3.07s and just 31"s i can only go 40 up mtn passes, i hate my 3.07s :mad: :headpop: :hateputers:
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more news. i took off the header panel and began to work on this, i determined that it is far into the wiring harness and is beyond my electrical abilities. I know that it was the body shop that did the crappy job of rewiring. I'm going back to them next week to tell them to fix it.
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how about this solution, take the old chk engine light out, and put a remote triggered led in that space. Watch the guy doing the test, when he turns the key hit the light on, hold it on for a few seconds after start. :nanner:
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james found the problem, I removed the front right corner lamp that was broken when i got the truck and was replaces when the truck got worked on, as soon as i removed the light, the problem went away, i noticed electrical tape running down the wires which gives me the heads up that someone half assed a re-wiring job, ill look at it more when i get home from work...
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With the side in question, take the cover off the tail lights and run a jumper wire from a good ground (negative post of the battery if you have to) and jam it between the copper side of one of the bulbs and the bulb socket. If that solves your problem, you found it. If not, try the other bulb, or try the front bulb. It's got to be one of them. Another way is to take the bulbs out one at a time till the problem goes away, but if the ground is bad to the whole tail light assembly as opposed to just one bulb, it won't go away till you remove both rear bulbs. Actually, I read your post again, and you said your right hand side tail lights were brighter than left. Assuming you used the same bulbs on both sides and all bulbs are good, I wouldn't know what causes it, but that does make me guess at the ground problem being with the front bulb. Good luck. $^&^*% 11 year old daughter has a sleepover. The three of them were giggling loud enough in her bedroom to wake me up! ok, last night i removed all of the rear lights, and the problem is still there without any rear lights in, so it must be a front problem? and i think it was only brighter because those lights on the right side are new. Problems in the front would make sense right now because it just had some body work done on that side in the front and the lights should have been ok but i guess not.
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Ill go down and try that... Ok, news from the garage: I went down and removed and replaced all of the 6 taillight bulbs and there is still the same problem, so thats not it One thing i should mention is that if i leave it in the off position and turn on headlights, The light dash light still lights up, but if i turn the right turn signal switch on (in off position so blinker doesnt come on) the light goes out. mvusse, i bet it is the bad ground, how do i check/fix this, I'm pretty much a dunce when it comes to electrical.
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Ill go down and try that...
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ok lets see if i can explain this... I first experienced this problem on sunday, i was leaving a party, turned my headlights on and i notice on the dash that the right turn signal light is on (not blinking, just lit up dimmly, not full) also in the back the lights are slightly brighter on the right side. I drove for about a half a mile on some rough dirt road and the light went off....... Tonight i was on my way home and turned on my lights and it did it a second time and this time it won't turn off. anyone have any ideas.......
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TCU?
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What gearing would you suggest for 35" tires, i know i would hate the 3.07s with 35s as i hate it with just 31"s.
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If that speedo is accurate, u have a sweet truck
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Now THAT is a brilliant solution. :clapping: :cheers: And the standard Jeep sender for any base model with idiot lights will do exactly that. Yes that is a good idea but the check engine light stays on 3-5 seconds after the engine is running and u should be building oil pressure during cranking which would turn the light off prematurely My oil light stays on for about 2~ seconds after start.... so it may or may not
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Does the axle gearing have anything to do with strength of the axle. I know it would be a PITA to put 35s on and the go 35 mph up the passes. And how big of a tire can a stock d30 3.07 axle handle. i want to know so that when i go to do my rear axle swap if i have to swap both front and rear.
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could it be the torque converter? I'm kind of fishing in the dark in this area, I know a lot about diagnosing Manual tranny problems but when it comes to auto :???: :dunno:
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I have the AAL, and i absolutely hate it (came with the truck) ride quality= terribly hard, hurts like hell when u hit ur head on the ceiling everytime u hit a rock. :headpop: Price looks good on it, end result is absolutely awful, i don't recommend this, i recommend soa
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i sure did, so that makes things worse huh? :headpop: My friend has a AWD dodge caravan with the same problem that we are currently trying to diagnose, is ur noise like a squeeking/grind type noise combo? Thats the best way i can explain this as well.
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price?
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Ill try and take pics tommorow.
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You DO NOT have an Ax-5. If you're talking about the truck in your sig, then you have a 4.0. The Ax-5 was never used behind the 4.0. Since you have a 90, you'd have an AX-15. The truck does NOT have the same tranny that was original equipment if it is an ax-5. I would have thought that i had the AX-15 too. however, for some reason an ax5 clutch kit worked in it. :D Either it is an AX-5 or the same clutch works in both ax-5 and ax-15 I'm open to ideas on why or if that clutch kit would work in both trannys. it could be that i have an ax-15.
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don't even get me started on the dumbasses that drive eclipse's. there was this one kid at my school that thought his eclipse was pretty cool and was always drifting it around the parking lot and passing people (i had a extremely close call on this one) on double yellow until one day when he rearended a guy on the highway by the school at 85 mph (its a 40 mph school zone... Needless to say the eclipse is no longer in existance and his liscense is the same way.............. :headpop:
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:agree: :redX: Si es Bueno.......... :nuts: Welcome :D NO ABLA SPANGLISH. NONONO. hablar is to speak, you need to put it in the Yo present tense form, No hablo spanglish (i don't speak spanglish) :smart: :evil:
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here in CO, if theres a robber in ur house u can shoot to kill, it was a law that was instated a couple of yrs ago but i can't remeber the name of it.
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double check though b4 u act on it. i just went to carquest and had them do a parts search for a clutch kit for my mj thinking it either had the pukey or the ax15, brought home a pukey kit, bolted it up and what do i know, i rev it up and let out of the clutch and nothing. as it turns out, i had the ax-5, and the springs werent long enough to even make contact with the pukey kit :mad: . back off with the transmission. :oops: :headpop: i felt like a major dumbass that day......
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TJ vs XJ/MJ 4.0 block mounts
james750 replied to RedBullMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
i think you have a powertech 4.0? if so, then id bet any jeep shop could tell u what the line pressuer should be on the powertech 4.0
