james750

I use a little $5.00 thing I got at o'reillie's a while back, it used to be bolted to the floor, but when I set large cups down they would get caught on the ashtray and spill the cup, so I moved it so that it is now wedged between the bench and mini console. Supposing you don't have a mini console. You could bolt it down anywhere on the hump you like. It is an easy 5 minute job.

Yeah, it didn't work. I don't have a welder to weld a nut on so at this point it would seem as if I am SOL. Any other suggestions. So far I have kept time on it and I have spent 8.3 hours on it today. :roll: Anyone have a new idea? I can't get any leverage with a hammer and chisel to smack the head off because it is way too close to the ground. I am SOOOO angry with this thing right now. :fs1: :mad: :wall: :rant: :headpop: :help: :grrrr: :doh:

Ok, Ive spent a few hours away from it now. I have formed a new attack plan. Once the Dremel battery is charged, I will use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the middle of the head and use a slotted screwdriver to remove. On paper it looks foolproof, but I have learned that things rarely turn out the way they look on paper.

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Is there a way to easily remove the output shaft with the yoke attached as an assembly?

Is there a way to remove the whole tcase side yoke while it is attached to the driveshaft (is it held on by snaprings or a center yoke bolt). That would make it tons easier if I could remove the whole yoke and then worry about getting the bolt out.

Is that yoke held in with a snap ring? Can I just use a prybar to pull that yoke out like I do with fwd passenger car axle shafts?

Ive seen 1 TJ, that's it!

I put mine on in the summer for 4wheeling and overnight trips to sleep in so I don't have to set up a tent, I just throw an air mattress in the back and it works great, But I make sure to strap down the tools still. As for loading/unloading, Ive never had a problem by myself, Even with 4.5" of lift, But I suppose a truck high dock and a forklift help with that. :D :brows:

Yeah, I started with a small set and worked to large, That thing is now VERY round. Its not coming off of there with the grips.

Went to take the front driveshaft off of the truck tonight to fix the problem with the loose dirt shield and yoke. I got the front straps off with no problems. The 4 bolts on the tcase side are giving me a problem. 3 of them came off easy. The 4th one is just rounding off when I turn the socket on the bolt (yes it is a 6pt socket), now the bolt is pretty messed up. :fs1: Ive soaked in PB blaster and it still won't come off. Not sure If I can cut it off with the dremel because the flat part of the bolt (built in washer) is recessed into the yoke a little bit. Any ideas of how to get this thing off?

BUMP!!!

It didn't come on with the axle swap. The axle swap is because of a different problem. And the new axle is just a non disco hp30, so it was a direct bolt in. I'm pretty sure I found the problem. Also, the collar has been rattling ever since I got the truck ( I knew the noise as soon as I touched the collar) but I think that the yoke being pulled out of the case is fairly new. I wonder if it is just the nut that holds the yoke on is loose and the yoke has pulled out from the assembly? I'll pull the front driveshaft and tighten that nut down this weekend. Also, this is a DD; should I stop driving it until it is fixed?

Here it is. If I push the collar against the yoke, it seems to slide in like it was meant to be in there. also, there is a small amount of the output shaft visible that doesn't look like it has been there for long because it is shiny like the unexposed part of the slip yoke.

I think I found it. I looked at the front tcase output. There is a little metal collar that looks like it is supposed to be sandwiched between the yoke than the case. It is loose and there is about an 1/8th inch space between the tcase and the yoke. Is this a problem? how do I fix?

Checked rotors and pads, they are clean.

I have been hearing a loud squeeking as well from time to time at higher speeds (with the brake off) but I thought it was unrelated as that noise came on right after the axle install. Ill check that out as well tonight. I would think I would get some pedal pulsation if it had crap on the rotors? I pulled the rear driveshaft and checked the u joints last night, they were fine. It was happening before the front axle swap so I doubt the new axle has bad u joints as well causing the same exact noise.

About a week ago I had a new noise show up on the MJ. I have been hearing a clicking type noise when I am coming to a stop. It almost sounds like a u joint is going out but I would think that that would only make a noise when it is under load when accelerating. I am not sure if it does it while accelerating as well because the engine noise would drown it out. It is however definitely louder when braking. I know the problem is past the transmission because it will not make the noise at a complete stop in neutral with the clutch engaged. It is also not in the front diff because I put in a new D30 this weekend and the noise was still there.I don't think it is coming from the rear diff becuase it sounds as though it is from the front, but I suppose the noise could be traveling up the driveshaft and sounding like it is right underneath me. That will be ruled in or out when the new 8.25 goes in soon. Any ideas?!? As all ways I really appreciate all the help you guys can give me, Thank you! :cheers:

I drove it around after I got home to heat it up, soaked it in PB blaster, and then used a 1-3/16ths socket on a ratchet. It wouldn't budge. So I tried it on an air ratchet, and still no go. So I got my impact gun out and it came right off. :fs1: There wasn't any loctite on the threads so I have no clue what the noise I am hearing in the drive line past the tranny. Its probably my D35 starting to bite the dust since the d30 has only been on for 1 day and it was making the noise before the swap, hopefully the 8.25 with SOA will go on in the next couple weeks. :brows:

:wall: :wall: I am trying to take the fill plug off of my tcase and that thing is torqued down to an unbelievable level. I suspect the last guy to work on it put it on with an impact. anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out. The trucks at home right now, I want to go pick up a 6pt socket tonight to try and coax it out of there, what size do I need, I know I should have checked when I was at home, but I realized this afternoon that the 12 pt is just not gonna do it. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I'm going to an 8.25. Will I need a new DS with that?

ok, I will just look into getting my driveshaft extended then (if needed). I was afraid I would be fighting some bad u joint angles. With 5.5" will the slip yoke be extended far enough to warrant a longer driveshaft? I think it probably will.

Since I can't afford a SYE and DC driveshaft and I am going to an 5" lift with SOA rear, I need to put in a tcase drop. Based on some of the kits I have seen for sale, I think I can make my own for a whole lot less than the price of a kit. If I were to get 4 1.5" spacers and some new 1.5" longer Xmember bolts would that work? OR will it not have the strength I need for the Xmember?

NICE. I have an old free roll bar waiting to be installed too. I need to fab up some frame tie-ins thought so it is a true roll bar. Are you just planning on screwing it down to the bed to make a show bar? what are your plans for frame tie ins?

That thing is CLEAN, with a new front fender/bumper you would be set. If you plan to wheel it after the 4x4 swap I would protect that body as much as possible. It will be worth it. I wish I had done that with mine; but its too late now for mine. :(