james750

That could work... It would also force a lazy guy like me to change diff fluid after the wheeling season which would be a good thing as well. The reason I want to put a lunchbox locker into the MJ is because I really don't want to spend 800 on another locker and go selectable. Also, I really don't want to pay for another gear setup even though that on my last I got a really good deal. I wish there was a selectable lunchbox locker.

Can I put an aussie in the front of my MJ? I have a non disco dana 30 out of a 94 XJ in the truck, I don't have manual hubs so the front axle is always turning. Would it cause binding when I try to steer on the road in 2wd? The MJ is a DD. EDIT: Also, I do use this rig in the winter on the streets in 4wd, I imagine this could cause a problem as well?

It will be harder to make a wrangler transmissions work because they are clocked differently so the transfercase would be parallel with the ground rather than angled down a little bit like the XJs/MJs. The XJ/MJ floor pans come down too far for a wrangler trans/case to be a direct fit so you must modify the floor pans a little bit for them to work (Time to pull out that BFH).

The 231 is a plenty strong case. I would definitely upgrade to the AX15 though. Depending on year of AX15 you may need to change input shafts on the transfer case or get a new tcase with a different input shaft. Yours should be a 21 spline (IIRC) and the newer models had a 23 spline (not sure which year they changed). The only worthwhile upgrades from the 231 would be to improve ratio from the 2.73:1 up to a 4:1 or higher case or for a twin stick case like the Dana 300.

With a pipe wrench that wouldn't be a problem. When I did my driveway alignment I was able to turn the tie rod by hand without vice grips or a pipe wrench after I loosened the clamps at the TRE's. What is throwing me off here is that he is saying that it is just the outer side of his wheel that is getting increased tire wear, That makes me think that the weight must all be riding on the ouside edge of that tire which would be caused by thrown off camber angle. When it is toed too far in or out, it will cause increased wear evenly over the contact area of the tire.

When I saw the title the first thing I thought was track bar as well but it sounds like a severe camber angle problem based on the tire wear.

If the outside of the tire is worn badly like that, The only thing that I can think of that would cause this is a VERY bad camber angle. On our trucks it is not adjustable and is set by the angle of the inner C of the axle. There should be a bend at the end of the drag link so that the TRE that goes into the pass. side knuckle goes in vertically and not at an angle, so that when the truck flexes it does not get hung up on the TRE prematurely getting maxed out when the pass. side of the axle drops. Bad alignment angles can cause death wobble. I would start by looking at your inner C's if the ball joints are all good. If the tire took a hard hit it can bend that inner C inward. One of the guys that I wheel with hit a guard rail with his ZJ (same front axle/steering as our trucks) and bent the inner C very badly and it had to be replaced. If you still have stock gearing it would probably be cheaper to replace the front axle with a JY axle than to have somebody cut/weld a new one on.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/search.php?keywords=Diagnostic&terms=any&author=Eagle&fid[]=2&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search 3rd post down. :thumbsup: (the [] brackets in the link are throwing of the URL code, but they are a part of the address, so I can't hyperlink it, sorry).

Thanks Eagle, I used search and found your post. I hooked it up and got the answers I needed. Unfortunately I need to pull the cluster and adjust the pot.

Ive been trying to hook up a remote tach to check my idle with the guage cluster to see if I set the pot correctly. I know that the red lead goes to the ignition coil negative and the black lead goes to ground. BUT, which wire is the negative to the coil? There are 3 spaces for connectors on the bottom of the coil and 2 of those spaces have connectors plugged in (The space closest to the rear of the truck is open). Which wire should I hook up to?

I thought it was probably the regulator. Ill have to get a bigger one when money permits.

I prefer "face hole". :yes:

I just got a CO2 tank this winter to use on trail runs. I haven't tested it yet for filling tires but I wanted to make sure I could run an impact, air ratchet, and other various tools while offroad. I adjusted the regulator to 60psi (maximum pressure that the regulator reads). The impact gun doesn't have anywhere near enough juice to spin off a lug, or any other moderately torqued bolts. Is there something I need to adjust to get the tank to run air tools and fill up tires quickly. I imagine that the CFM is not very high with how run down the impact gun sounded. What do I need to do?

How would I measure the maximum tire size I can put on my MJ. What I have done so far is take half of the wanted tire size and then measure from the center of the hub up. Is this the right way to do it?

You don't want it to stay too cold. Operating temp for these motors is around 200-210. If it stays too cold, especially if you have a Renix system, it'll kill you mileage. If it runs too cold will it start running in closed loop? That's the only way I can think of to kill MPG.

Sorry Rick, I was hoping I could make it on this but I need to finish up some finals for school today. Maybe next time. Thanks for sending out the emails BTW.

Going up to Twin cone this Sunday. The Forest service says it is open. I will post a meeting time/place later tonight. It looks like a few of the guys from JF will make it as well.

It converts it to an open system. There is both an bottom and a side nipple that the stock hoses attach to. and then there is one on the filler neck by the radiator cap. when the pressure reaches 15 psi. and the vent on the cap opens it allows overflow coolant to either flow in or out through that nipple. You run the overflow bottle to that top hose and make sure that the overflow bottle is vented. I will take a picture of my setup when I get home tonight. :cheers:

This is the best money I've spent on my cooling system. It is an aluminum overflow tank to replace the stock one. It has a vented cap so you need to run an aux bottle. Very simple installation in the stock location, and then you just need to run an aux bottle that you can get at any auto parts store. I know that some other peeps on this forum are running them too (I think chico is). http://www.macsradiator.com/replacmentjeepradiatorfilltanks.aspx

:drool:

I thought that you shouldn't put lockers the front of vehicles without manual hubs? The driveline will always be moving even if not given power w/o the hubs and no CAD.

Its easier to switch to newer style doors than fab up the door panels.

I found an open circuit in the hot wire of the coax. That explains why the tuning didn't help at all and why channel 1 and 40 had the same readings. I emailed quadratec to see if they will replace the cable since it is fairly new.

I need to uncoil my coax. I will do that tonight. I am not sure what to do with it though? Any ideas? Where do I get a custom lengh coax? I need a standard connection on the radio side and a loop end on the antenna side. I suppose I could move the antenna to the other side of the hood to take up some of the length of my 18' coax.

Thanks for the tips Mvusse. I have had the tip on my antenna for tuning. I am thinking that I may have a bad SWR meter. This is my first use with it so I don't really know how to tell. But I don't think that the SWR should be reading all the way pegged to the right. I will try too reassemble my old magnet mount antenna that doesn't need to be tuned and see if the SWR meter gets the same reading on that. At least that should give me a good idea of if my meter is bad or not.