Mountain Dude

If you look very carefully at the diagram, almost covered up by the yellow circle around the "A" end of the rod, there is a metal clip barely visible gripping the rod where it decends towards the "B" end. Using a screwdriver, push that part of the clip straight back towards the rear of the door. It will rotate around the rod above where it is bent and goes into the lock assembly. Once you release the clip, rotate it until it clears the rod and then pull the rod out of the lock. Then remove the lock from the door by removing the black clip surrounding the lock up against the door skin..

OK here's some photos of the Chev S10 driver's seat install. Starting with the brackets, I located fabricated and installed the front R/H one because of the transmission tunnel width dictated where the seat could mount. When building it up and after locating the right front mount, the two rear ones were sitting on 2x4's - 2 on the right rear and one on the left rear. Picture of the front mounts taken from drivers door: Image Not Found ...and the rear mounts - note, I cut off and re-used the bench seat rear mounts, however, the one I used on the driver's side came from the passenger side of the bench seat. I did this so that it would sit farther back and be closer to the Chev seat mount holes. Image Not Found close up of rear mount: Image Not Found close up of the front left mount - note that it is installed on the edge of the uni-frame for strength: Image Not Found this one taken from passenger side: Image Not Found these new brackets were made out of some scrap steel I had in the bin...actually it is from one of the S-10 Blazer rear bumper corner supports like this: Image Not Found In order to centre the seat behind the steering wheel, I had to cut off part of the right hand seat rail like this: Image Not Found here is a pic of the clearenced area: Image Not Found And finally, the installed seat: Image Not Found power seat controls: Image Not Found Hmmmm, leather! Image Not Found

Here's a link to the Willys wikipedia page, they made lots of different cars before and after the war http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willys

I will get some for ya tomorrow. Put a new master cyl in today and blew a rusty hardline when bleeding the rear brakes :fs1:

Fixed the park switch in the windshield wiper motor, ripped out the bench seat and installed a leather bucket from a 1994 S-10 Blazer on the driver's side - way more comfortable now!, pulled the worn out brake master cylinder. Still to go - install new master, replace clutch slave cylinder, replace right rear brake cable, install passenger seat from the Blazer.

brubakes - not sure about the 242, I have never had one apart. When I did my swap, I spent a lot of time on the internet looking at websites such as Novak Adapters and OMIX - ADA checking on part numbers etc. It may very well be that the back half of a 242 and 231 are the same and the chain part of the swap might be able to be done. Dirteatr717 - if you are talking about something like the Tera-low conversion from Teraflex, then the chain mod can be done on it since it is only the front half that changes for the 4:1 kit. If you are talking about the NP241OR swap, I think it already comes this way.

http://www.calmini.com/

Tom Woods Driveshafts at http://www.4xshaft.com/ has the diagrams

Yes

Since the mirror is electrically isolated from the rest of the truck being stuck on the glass, it doesn't matter which way the current flows (unless they are LED bulbs) and it doesn't flow to ground through the mount. So your two hots and one ground can easily be two grounds and one hot. So 1 ground is supplied by opening the door and the other is supplied by turning on the map light switch and the power is applied to the common terminal.

Not sure if MJ's are the same...but when I had a leak like this in my TJ it was a blocked cowl drain. Spray a little water into the cowl vent ahead of the windshield ans see where it runs out.

Here's a few pics of my Jeeps: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

The New Process 231 transfer case installed in our Jeeps is a simple, well designed unit. Unforunately, Jeep engineers decided to steal a little of the unit's available strength, when they put it into our trucks. The NP231 is also used in Dodge half ton trucks (231HD) and Chevy / GMC S10 and S15 pickups Blazers and Jimmys (231C). What these other two types of 231's have in common are: 6 pinion planetary reduction and a front drive chain that is 1.5 inches wide instead of 1 inch wide. The good thing is that the internal parts are interchangeable! Since S10s and S15s are a dime a dozen, finding an NP231C from a first generation Chevy is fairly cheap and easy. What would have been even better would be if Chevy decided to use the same 6 bolt mounting flange on the front, instead of the 5 bolt one they have. So you can't do a direct swap. The one I got a hold of was a 1989 S-10 pickup (4wd obviously) that I bought for $200 to get the 4.3 out of, so the t-case was a free bonus. I won't bore you all with the details of the teardown or re-assembly, there are lots of write-ups on the internet already. Here is the original Jeep reduction unit - only three planetary gears Image Not Found Notice the spaces available for the other three gears. Here is the Chevy unit on the right with 6 gears. Image Not Found You will have to swap in your input gear from your original T-case, it is not likely that the Chevy one will be the same. Be cautious here. According to Novak Adapters knowledge database, there is a possibility that there are two shapes of gear teeth, make sure they are the same or your upgraded t-case won't last. I don't think it will be a problem since I used a 1989 Chevy t-case to upgrade my 2005 TJ one. 2x the pinions = 2x the strength! Here are the two chains compared side by side: Image Not Found I was concerned that the older chain would be more stretched than my newer one, but it was not. The Chevy t-case is not driven at road speed all the time like the TJ one due to the front axle disconnect in the Chevy, so the wear and tear is less even though it is older. Here's the old one - 1 inch wide: Image Not Found And the new one - 1.5 inches wide: Image Not Found Note that the extra half inch means it is 50 % stronger! When you swap the chains, you also have to swap the drive and driven sprockets from the Chevy unit. The driven one just slides in. For the drive one, you will probably have to drive out the two needle bearing sets from inside the sprocket. I say probably because I am not sure for a stock NP231J since I am running a Terraflex Slip Yoke eliminator kit in mine. I don't remember doing anything with the stock drive sprocket when I installed the SYE kit, but I'm over 50 now so my memory may be faulty ;) As a bonus, the upgraded t-case actually makes less noise and creates less heat than the old one - at least in my Jeep anyway! I have been running it for several years now with zero problems.

I didn't realize that it had a SBC conversion. If so, and the used the completed powertrain, you could have an NP241C. That would probably explain the shift pattern. Could also be an older unit too. The funny thing is that the T400 in my J truck is a Buick unit which they call the "nailhead" pattern, which Jeep added an adaptor plate on the front of the match the AMC engine bolt pattern.

OK, sorry I couldn't help.

There are usually two coolant sensors. 1 for the computer and 1 for the gauge.

Willy - awesome thread, love your build. Did you ever figure out how to re-install your door locks? I see you bought new ones but didn't say if you got them installed.

The older Jeep's get the more strange stuff people put into them! My J4000 was built with a 360 but somewhere along the way it was converted to a 258 straight 6 probably from the old CJ they swapped the V-8 into.

or you could go with the supercharged 3800 from a pontiac Bonneville SSEi

The Delco Remy units are known as model 10SI, they are internally regulated 3 wire systems. You can get one from Summit Racing that puts out 140 amps that is a direct bolt in for a v-belt type. If you have a serpentine belt, you will have to swap the pulley from your old one, supposedly they fit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1669/ $179.95

They made a 700R4 version for the 60 degree engines too although they are a little more rare and I'm not 100 % sure they made a 4wd version. I had a 1986 2wd GMC S-15 Jimmy that had a 700 in it. Both versions have the same internals, just the cases are different to match the different engines.

The D-20 shifter is on the centre - right side of the tunnel. Have you ever cruised the International Full Size Jeep website? http://www.ifsja.org/

Yes, the iron duke GM version of the 2.5. Read up on the 700R4 transmission on the Novak Adapters knowledge website.

ftpiercecracker1 wrote: 1982 j10 body w/ gladiator front clip conversion, SBC chevy, vortex heads, .030 over, 75 shot of nitrous, 4in lift, true dual mustang exhaust, 35 BFGs, ford 9in rear (cause my brother snapped the D44), D44 front, Turbo400,TC unknown, PW, PL. Does the T-case have a floor shifter that works in a "J" pattern - then it is probably a Dana 20 - same as my 1973 J-4000 that has a T400 in it. If it has a 4WD lock switch in the glove box or under the dash, you have a Quadratrac. Some of them had a low range box that has a shifter on the floor on the driver's side.

Some GM engine info: 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 and 3.8 L engines are all 60 degree V engines. They have a different transmission bolt pattern from all other rear wheel drive engines including the 2.5 4 cyl , 4.3 V-6 and 5.0 and 5,7 L V-8s, which are all the same. Much useful information can be found at:http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters.htm in the knowledge section and at: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/index.php A GM NP231C has a 5 bolt mounting pattern and is incompatible with Jeep transmissions the standard Jeep transfer case uses a 6 bolt pattern. One interesting fact is that the NP231C used in first generation S-10's and S-15's have a 6 pinion planetary and a wider 1.25 inch chain than the stock NP231J found in Jeeps which have a 3 pinion planetary reduction and a 1 inch wide chain. I have swapped these parts into my 2005 TJ's transfer case increasing it's strength and reducing the noise when in four low.