GonzoTheGreat

Super straightforward. You can do it with the truck on the ground. The only thing that can really cause a problem is if you snap that top stud on one of the links, or one of the frame-mount bolts, but your truck doesnt look super crusty. Just make sure you use plenty of PB blaster before you attack. Oh and that frame-side bushing is available in different diameters. I think 23mm is the most common, but you might want to measure yours before you buy the new ones, just to make sure.

I only ask because I have been guilty of this myself, but did you fully tighten the hose clamps on the filler neck hoses?

Glad it went to a good home. Hope you stick around! ...and find another MJ soon

Sounds like you got a great platform! That's gonna take a lot of juice for that blower to be electric. Is the battery bank going in the bed, or is there space underneath? Good luck on the rest of the trip! That's a lot of ups and downs for that little motor.

Okay. The eternally evolving itinerary has brought me back to Quintana Roo, and I have retrieved the Comanche. I don't have a lot of pictures yet, but I think that's ok, because the forum is dealing with storage issues right now anyway. This is where it sat. I'm again, a little sad to see the result of storage in a tropical jungle, but all in all, things weren't too bad after a good deep-cleaning. I spent a couple days cleaning and organizing, slapped some crisp Michelin blades on my '97+ wiper arms, and headed for the border to get my permit to drive it. I'll work on this as soon as we get it presentable But here's a pic of the "office" I wouldn't call it ergonomic, but it's saved me quite a bit of hassle having my own printer on-board. Here it is after a bath. We just finished the documents yesterday, and hit the road. Stay tuned for updates. I'm not sure what the timeframe is, or the destination for this leg, but for sure we'll cross Mexico, and eventually get back to the states, then who knows

Thats the number one choice for stainless in the superyacht scene, at least on this side of the atlantic. Excellent product!

Can we talk more about this CCV situation? Is the crankcase able to relieve blowby pressure through its vent on the valve cover, as its supposed to? If its building excess pressure in the crank, that pressure is gonna want to find a way out. The dipstick tube looks pretty central to the oily mess. Any chance thats whats going on?

This is awesome. You've gotta post pics when its done.

Looks like there are not a lot of options on rockauto.com for the dana 30, but USA Standard gear does have 3.54s available. There are many options for bearings/seals/rebuild kits.

I also used the '95 pre-bled, pre-assembled kit when i swapped in the ax-15. It bolted up fine in my '88.

This looks like an incredibly clean truck. I think we need more pictures!

This is awesome! I'm glad to see it moves under its own power again! Its a beautiful truck!

The european market was completely different. Check out this stick shift turbodiesel zj. Who knows what else was available. And this one definitely has drums in the rear. @Caspar can we get a closer photo of the passenger side shock mount? It may just be an XJ c8.25 with a shock mount swapped. I don't know why it would have the 4 stanchions by the pinion, but the KJ (which is called "Cherokee" in europe) may have overlapped some parts with later XJs

I love the super detailed work, followed by excellent documentation. This is one of my favorite builds on the site. Very well-deserving MJOTM.

Side of highway MX-1 in San Jose del Cabo across from Chevron. Someone tried with some body work at one point, and a 97+ front clip. Most of what remains of the interior is in the bed. Looks like it used to have a cargo lamp. Currently sitting on 3 slicks and a jack stand. ...Its not dead yet.

It should be a 10a, using oversized fuses can be risky. I had that happen to me once. All the lights worked fine until i turned the knob for gauge brightness. The switch was bad. Turns out the rheostat coil snapped and was shorting out on something behind the dash.

That must be an incredible feeling. Congrats on the first test drive! I love the attention to detail on this project. I'm happy to see that it's on the road!

I swear I just posted once

I always thought these look pretty uncomfortable. Some day id like to take the last few inches of an old bed and taillights and mount it to the wall, then have the tailgate drop down to form the bench with some upholstery on it. Then you can "park" the bench when you're not using it. I have the spare tailgates and lights, but I'm not ready to cut up a bed just yet.

If you could sell the xj to get two other vehicles on the road, I think that sounds a lot better than sitting on three half-finished jeeps indefinitely, and driving an explorer. You might regret selling an xj a little bit, but there's always another one.

Actually if you have a bore scope, and you could see the fork, you should probably do that check again but watch how the throwout bearing presses into the finger springs. Did the new pressure plate come with the LUK friction disc as a kit? If the disc didn't match the original, what are the chances the pressure plate matched the original? If theres nothing wrong with the clutch hydraulics (and they seem to be fine), then there has to be something wrong with the pressure plate or its spacing/thickness that's preventing it from disengaging. The throwout bearing looked ok?

I saw this awhile back on facebook. I saved the pics because I didn't know MJs were offered as chassis-cabs.

Green is wire loom clips Blue is wiper bracket/MAP Yellow I think is the bracket that holds the plastic screw receiver for the wiper cowl Black is engine grounding ribbon

That's what I was thinking too. The symptoms sound more like bad springs on the pressure plate. Its possible the slave is working, but when the throwout bearing pushes into the plate, there's no resistance and the fingers just bend.

I believe its 3/8 NPT and you can get a new piece of pipe the same length with the threads already cut on both ends at home depot. The threads on the hose end should keep the hose from sliding off, but you might want to double clamp it. I've used teflon tape with no problems. Teflon is good 'til like 400C or something like that, so coolant temps are no problem. That's how my '88 was when I got it, and I didn't know until 3 years later when I took the hose off to redo the cooling system, but since it worked, I just kept the pipe.