gogmorgo

I had a friend with one on his Ranger. He noticed no difference, although his only held about a quart of water. There are studies that show that driving with headlights on can decrease mpg's by 1%. If you did manage to get better mileage from having HHO in your intake, the electricity required would just take power away from your engine. Even with a 100% efficient (no loss) system, you could only break even. In real life, your system would not be anywhere near 100% efficient, so you'd be wasting fuel just to split molecules and stick them back together. The science doesn't just say it won't improve mileage, it makes it pretty clear that it can't. If, however, you set up an HHO generator that ran off the power grid (i.e. at home) and then put a slow-release system on your truck, then you might get somewhere. But as long as the power's coming from your fuel, you're not stretching it out any, unless you can find a more efficient way of getting it to the ground.

Well, I don't know what your work entails (whether or not you're driving around), or how long it sits not running between when you get to/leave work and your lunch brake, but if it's cold enough to merit warming it up at at lunch, it's probably cold again anyway when you get back to it. My thinking is that's two cold, poorly lubricated starts, vs one colder but equally poorly lubricated start. But yes, conventional wisdom round these parts is that fuel economy sucks in winter because vehicles need left idling to warm up. And that's the point I was trying to make, that the idling gets you. On the other hand, my dad doesn't leave cars sitting idling, his mpg's don't take much of a hit at all, and he's clocked 250k miles on his ex-rental Chevy 3.4. Beyond changing fluids on a somewhat regular schedule, the engine has had no maintenance whatsoever. I don't know if it's even had the sparkplugs out. And it's never been left idling to warm it up for more than a couple minutes, even at -40. There was a study done here at the U of S a while ago, and while the engineers doing the research where hesitant to draw conclusions, their results mostly suggested that it doesn't do much good to idle to warm up.

Realised I hadn't put up any photos since I put the new foggers onto her, so went out, found the deepest ditch I could and took a poser on top of an approach. Nope, still haven't washed it... heheh Unfortunately, a couple days later got a little stuck, then pop, clunk, thumpthumpthumpthumpthumpthump and I was very stuck... Guess that means that u-joint wasn't as good as it looked... Glad that didn't happen on the highway but instead about 20 feet from my final destination on a 700 mile trip...

Temporary may be until summer... I haven't been able to make it out to a jy yet, since the couple I know of are all too far out of the city to bus/walk (and it's winter...) but I never really thought about looking for parters. Will do. Anything other than an xj/mj I could pull it from?

Just got them a couple days ago. I guess they showed before Christmas up but got shoved into the wrong mailbox. A fine redhead dropped the envelope off at my door, so thanks for making your six look a bit like an 8 :brows: :thumbsup: Thanks!

So I drove up towards the back door of my building like I've done many times this winter (not plowed at all, over a foot of snow there) without issue, but this time for whatever reason I didn't make it quite all the way up the gentle slope. So I back down, get a little stuck, and then this happened and then I was very stuck... I suspected the u-joint was bad for a while, but when I looked at it, it seemed alright. Guess I was wrong, eh? Digging through the snow underneath after I got pulled out, the only chunks I found were three of the u-joint caps, two of them with about 1/2 to 3/4" broken off inside. So my issue is the axle now won't stay put, and every time the two ends make contact, my wheel locks briefly since the open diff makes the axle spin backwards compared to the wheel. Otherwise, everything's fine in 2wd. I'm pretty sure I can't stretch my means far enough to get a new axle half, or even a used one (although I haven't priced anything out yet) so is there any way I can prevent the axle from sliding around, or can I just take it out and plug the hole somehow to keep the diff from losing fluid? I'm thinking angle grind the clevis off the axle and wire it in somehow as being the least expensive way to achieve 2wd driveability, or do I need the axle in there for some reason?

Idling is where your mpg is going. And to be honest, idling really doesn't help your engine warm up. Use the block heater if you've got one, but unless cold is below 0F, I wouldn't bother warming it up before driving, just got easy until you're up to temperature. If it's -20F or lower I might start the engine before I get in and let it run while I go and unplug, scrape windows, brush snow off &c but I don't usually let it idle unless I forgot to plug it in (or I'm parking briefly somewhere I can't plug in) and the temperature is well below 0F. I know there are mountains, but coming from the Canadian Prairies and having lived for a few years on the Wet Coast, I have trouble believing that it actually gets cold in WA...

Always wanted to do this sort of thing. :thumbsup:

Yup, definitely broke the tension... still... I nearly died... And then when I realized I had pretty much laughed myself to death, it only made me laugh harder... I was seeing stars, my ears started ringing, a bit like when you stand up too quick and get dizzy. Up until then, I didn't believe it was possible to laugh to death. Now I'm convinced it is!

:teehee: :laughin: :rotf: :rotfl2: :clapping: :jump: I laughed so hard when I read that I got the hickups, started coughing, nearly choked myself.... Exams have had me under a little too much stress lately... I may have cracked... I still can't stop laughing...

Anodized aluminum pans sound pretty decent. And that's a killer deal, (65% off) but most of you likely don't have a Crappy Tire within reach...

Don't think there's a "wrong" way to start a project thread so long as you put it in the projects forum ;) You can add pictures directly to a post with

Hey now. Its gotta be good cause they started building it in '77 and didn't stop until this September. :rotf: But yes, irrational's the operating word. :yes:

My irrational automotive desire? This:

I'm jealous. When I went down to MPI they told me wholesale value of $100 and assessed value of $0 (no one really did more than glance through the window of the insurance place, just saw the 474,000km...) And yet it's still $600 for a year of insurance... And we've got some of the better insurance rates in the country back home in MB...

False. One of the chemicals used during the process has been linked to cancer in rodents, but there's no conclusive evidence about it's effects in humans. However, once you get your pans, there's none of that chemical left in/on them (although with all new cookware, it's advisable to wash it first). If you overheat teflon (Health Canada says 350°C (~660F), DuPont says 500F (~260°C)) it can let off somewhat toxic fumes, but it's not going to do worse than give you flu-like symptoms. Flakes of the coating getting into your food won't do anything to you, since it just goes right out the other end. Pretty much, as long as you don't overheat the pan, you're fine.

Wow... for someone who doesn't like quiet... is the car even running??? I've watched it a few times, and I'm still not sure that I'm not hearing a plane fly over head...

Not having the foggiest clue about what an orgreenic pan might be, it sounds almost like something made of some kind of plant composite, which, when thoroughly soaked in oil, would then leach it back onto the cooking surface. I've had moderate success frying eggs with no grease/oil in near-new non-stick pans. But it's still not the same as using oil. It cooks really well where there's contact with the egg, but once an air bubble develops under the egg, it ends up a bit like a hard-boiled egg, not that greasy, crispy-ish oil-fryed goodness. I'm a big fan of cast iron for cooking over a fire or barbecue, but indoors on electric burners, I prefer cast aluminum. Coated, though.

It's on the door sticker, assuming you've still got the original one and the ink's still on it. Otherwise, you can get it from your vin, but I don't know how to go about that. I'm thinking of going into the Jeep dealer than I drive past a few times a week, but I haven't got around to it. The ink's gone on my sticker, but the block's stamped number on the block works out to late December '90. Which, come to think about it, puts four months closer to the difference between our ages than the six I originally said.

Good to know, thanks!

Damn, that's rough. But yeah, you'd need to get an idler pulley where the a/c pump goes (or somewhere thereabouts if you go with a different belt, since the belt won't clear straight across from the harmonic balancer to the power steering pulley (Tensioner's in the way). And since A/C was standard, there's no factory "delete" kit. You'd need to cobble pretty hard, and very few mechanics today seem willing to do much beyond replacing parts...

Wow. That's a little, uh... damn. I've got no words for it. Shocking way to make profit on their part, but I guess it's the same way when you upload to facebook... you surrender your pictures to them.

Mine's about 5 months older than I am. Since it's older than me, and much wiser, having 300k miles of experience compared to my 40k, so I treat it with respect. Or maybe that has more to do with not being able to afford to fix it if I break something...

Fuel economy's a little more difficult to box in than that. When accelerating, it's more efficient to do so at peak torque (thus minimizing the time when you're doing more than making up for rolling resistance, drag, &c) but at a constant speed, you only need enough torque to fight those loses, so there's a balance point where everything's minimized. Case in point, the LS7 in the Corvette Z06. Peak torque is at 4800 rpm, but there's really no need to make 470 lb-ft just to cruise down the highway at 75. It would be stupidly wasteful to have the engine revving that high, when with much less fuel you could be doing 1500 rpm in 6th instead of 5000 in 2nd. This is why CVT's don't keep the engine at peak torque. There's a point of peak efficiency which is usually lower than that of peak torque, but it moves around a lot because it's dependent on engine load. So yes, below that point, your fuel economy does go up with engine speed. But once you've hit that point, it starts dropping again, regardless of where peak torque is. But I understand where you're coming from with that. My Dad still can't figure out why I get better mpg's in his van than he does, since I accelerate harder and drive faster than he does, but I'm definitely not at peak torque engine speeds (~4k) down the highway. Much faster than 70mph and the mpg's go back down again.

A transfer case won't bolt up to a 2wd transmission, not without modification. I understand it's not worth doing the work with the number of 4x4 trannies available, but I've got no experience there. Someone else will likely chime in. But Welcome to the Madness and humbly ask you to post pictures of your truck.