gogmorgo

I second the imgur recommendation. It's basic, easy to use, and it hasn't changed much at all in terms of how it stores pictures, unlike a bunch of other hosts that have changed things and result in a bunch of dead photos in older posts. There's even a basic editing feature, but I rarely use it. Also, the free accounts aren't needed, but I'd recommend getting one so you can keep track of what you've uploaded. Also, you might find this helpful, if a bit overwhelming... http://comancheclub.com/topic/38265-how-to-make-your-posts-look-awesome-pics-links-videos-etc/

Cool, my dad's from that area. I paid $2700 for my 91 4x4 4.0 auto, a fair amount of rust but still not bad for the area (Manitoba, Canada) 300,000 miles (but fairly well maintained), 90k miles on an engine rebuild, with a valid safety certification. PO paid 3000 the previous fall and put another grand into it to get it safetied (I've got the receipts, bill of sale, and inspection forms). He briefly needed a truck and didn't any more. Only put about 6000 miles on it in about ten months. I'm reasonably certain I overpaid, but am not sore over it. My biggest expenses were registration and insurance, and then new tires. If I needed to turn around and sell it now, I'd ask for $2000.

Or get one of these? Never used one, don't know anyone who has either, so can't vouch for how well they work, but it's an interesting concept and much less $$ than a dump bed or trailer.

I've heard fairly often that you actually use less [read no] gas going down a hill in gear with an injected engine because the injectors get shut off and the vehicle's momentum is enough to keep everything spinning, vs in neutral where you need fuel to keep the engine running. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/news/coasting-in-neutral-fuel-economy Can't confirm this applies to our MJ's, though, as most often I see it written as "modern" fuel injection. But it's a principle I stick to. It feels a lot safer than freewheeling, too.

You may not need to shift much, depending on the motor. I remember Tesla ditching the two-speed tranny in the Roadster and just going with a fixed ratio gearbox since the tranny just added complexity and mass. It makes much more sense to have it behind the solid coupling of the clutch and manual tranny than the torque converter of an auto. Although in all honesty, you could just simply do away with the clutch or tc, but it still would likely be better to be able to pick a single ratio and go with it, choose another if you need more/less torque for towing or whatever.

What's so bad about lug centric spacers? It works fine for wheels. But yeah, generally cheap ebay stuff in the drivetrain or suspension is unsafe. Also, to the OP, 12.5's may be a bit wide for stock rims, which are 15x7.

Don't much care for Dexter, personally. I took a forensic science elective (and I know that doesn't mean I know everything) and it's seriously difficult to get rid of all the evidence. You can make it really hard for the investigators to find it, and make it really hard for them to tie it to you, but even the best methods will still leave a tiny amount behind. Most TV shows don't show anything that would do much to the evidence, for what should be obvious reasons. Most of them also fail pretty hard at actual forensic procedures in interest of a better story. But like mnkyboy points out, the fewer people who know, the better. As Ben Franklin said, three men can keep a secret if two of them are dead. Obviously, though, it's best to avoid the situation if at all possible...

Bodies are evidence, no matter what you do with them. Unless you get that body out into the ocean right away, any small amount of bloating from decomp will make it buoyant, then God only knows where it could end up. Unless 100% complete, cremation won't destroy mitochondrial DNA in bone cells. And most modern cremation leaves a good portion of bone behind, which then gets ground up and mixed with the ashes. Granted, the chances of anyone finding remains in either case is slim, but not impossible.

Pulled up on the one as far as I could, wiggled it around a small amount, and it still came up about an inch short. Like I said, though, it's pitch black outside and barely above freezing, so I only spent about 30 seconds at it, and I didn't feel like putting on socks, shoes, pants, jacket, etc... I'll check it out tomorrow.

What's holding down my battery? um... what we motorsports engineers like to call static downforce... I just broke the bungee cord I'd been using to hold it down all winter... guess they don't like the cold so much. Definitely more important than what I was planning for it. Thanks!!! Edit: Just went out to put it on the MJ and discovered a couple things. 1. Whoever replaced the battery last must have intentionally left it off, because the two bolts aren't quite long enough. The battery that's in there is too tall, although there may be a cap of some kind over it I can remove, as the two lids in PFCLeist's pic are there, but they're flush to the top of the battery. Didn't look into it too hard though, because of 2. 2. It's darker than sin outside, and despite the 80°F weather we've had over the last few days, once the sun went down a couple hours ago, the 38F is a bit chilly for t-shirts and way too damn cold for bare feet... So that's another thing to do tomorrow.

This was behind the seats in my MJ when I bought it, near the factory screw jack. PO didn't know what it was, and I've got no clue. It doesn't look like it would work so well as a jack handle, and that's the only thing I think of when I see it. Also might be some kind of mount for something, or possibly part of seat brackets? I've really got no idea... It's got a rubber coating, which is peeling off, and there's something similar to plaster or concrete crumbling out from under the rubber in end bar angle pieces. The two cross pieces are thin stamped angle pieces. The long middle bar is about 7" long, and the end bars are about 4" I just found it again after cleaning out my truck, and I might be able to modify and repurpose it, but I don't want to ruin it if it's something important.

I've got basic skills in Russian if you need help with any of it. Can't say I'm anywhere near fluent though, and my dictionaries are excellent but published in '52... But at least I can read it and translate individual words and work out grammatical structures if you're having issues.

I was jealous briefly about the green grass... then I remembered that our brown stuff was still covered in snow a week ago... and my brother got a couple snowballs today when I found a pile in the shade. But then I was seriously jealous about your jeeps. B-E-A-Utiful!

^sandblaster. If not, a wire wheel may help you out.

Yeah, junkyards and performance shops are just about the only places you can get carb parts (or at least more than just floats/rebuild kits) any more, and I highly doubt that you'd find too many 2se parts at a typical performance shop, although they might know better where to look. At a pick and pull try looking at early 80's gm cars or trucks if you can't find a Jeep. S10's are likely the best candidate, imo.

For anyone else who doesn't like dealing with mobile links (hint hint)... I'm also looking to replace the glasspack and piping that is falling off my MJ before too long. I don't particularly want the loud sound... even before the tailpipe made its bid for freedom I was setting off car alarms when parked underground. Don't know if I want to go back to the glasspack to avoid doing much more of that. I'm leanign towards a FM50 , but haven't made up my mind yet. There's a really good exhaust shop about thrity miles up the road I'm planning to take it to for a custom stainless job later this summer when I've got a little more money, and I'll see what they recommend.

I just went to swap out my dad's reverse lights today and in the process broke the brake light. It was a 2057, but the only place in town that sold bulbs didn't have them, so I got the 1157's, which seemed to be the closest match. And they worked alright. Your post prompted me to do some googling, and it turns out that the two are almost identical, but the 1157 is slightly brighter and runs slightly hotter, and doesn't last quite as long.

Beyond checking the hoses, you've checked to make sure there aren't any hiding ports? The one I missed was coming off the bottom front of the carb. Not easy to spot in a van where you come at the engine from above and behind. Don't know your application so can't suggest blind spots. Make sure the throttle plate closes as far as it should. There should be an idle-speed adjuster screw somewhere that acts as a stop for the throttle return. Could be pushed too far out, but you've likely checked for that. Could also be a sticky choke or fast-idle. Your carb is seated and secured properly? Intake? rebuild kit sounds like a good call. Be very very careful with the metering rods when you pull apart your carb, and take a $#!&-ton of pics so you know how it goes back together. Just reread that post, and you've done all the above. The high-idle-screw-with-throttle-low-idle thing seems a lot like a fast idle/choke issue. The purpose of choke or fast idles is to help with seriously cold starts and warming up. On the van I mentioned, the auto choke was set by stepping on the gas and coming off slow. If you did that, it would engage the choke, so that when you started the engine, it would run richer and idle higher so the cold engine ran better and warmed up faster. Worked great, down to -35 it would start and run without using the block heater. It would idle at what my well-calibrated ear says is likely around 1500-2000rpm and if you so much as sneezed on the gas pedal it would drop down to "regular" idle speed, and probably die if it was cold out and the engine wasn't warm yet. If you fast-idle is set badly or your choke is messed up, it could increase idle speed. You understand I'm pretty well just making some uneducated guesses here, right? Take what I say with a grain of salt... I'm hoping some more experienced member will chime in... I'm slightly curious for my own reasons what gaskets you'd have left and why you have them left. I'd have done my best to replace all the gaskets I had replacements for.

I remember when I first figured out not to hit hard edges at any kind of speed... I was around seven or eight years old. It involved a bike, a steep hill, a curb, a twisted front wheel, a lot of blood, and a long wait in an alley before help showed up...

Not really "in the country" as per Jim's original post, but my '91 MJ's registered in Manitoba. When I bought it, somehow it was on that magic "four months after your date of birth" day (no idea whose @$$ they pulled that from...) that they count everything down from and you have to do stuff on that day every year, so I got to pay the whole deal, not some prorated "pay for an entire month then come back in two days and pay for the next entire year" garbage. Which was completely by accident but totally awesome. At any rate, it means that on the insurance stuff I have the proper rates I paid. MPI is a crown corp that handles both the DMV stuff as well as being the only insurance company. You're required by law to have insurance, so it simplifies things, and depending on your situation can actually reduce insurance rates over private systems, but ymmv (best quotes I got while I was in Ontario were twice those I got in MB or here in SK). I understand they're a lot harder on "unsafe drivers" than most private co's are. But at any rate, when all was said and done it cost me $719 to put my MJ in my name in Manitoba. $119 provincial sales tax on vehicle purchase (one-time) $439 insurance premium $154 registration charge $7 plate use I've got no idea if those are annual or not or if there's some kind of first-time fee included or what. I've only paid them once. I've looked into putting SK plates on it, and the rates are almost identical. it's a handful of change under what I'm paying now on SGI's online calculator, so it's not worth it since I'm not required to (as a student who removes the truck from the province every couple months) and it'll cost me more to have an out-of-province inspection done than I'd save on insurance in something like 80 years...

Did that once on Dec. 23rd, shopping. Traffic was backed up like crazy, very few parking spots left at the biggest mall in the province. There were a few spots left in the back corner of one section, but a truck was sitting in the single lane entrance, and was trying to turn left but no one was letting him in, so I couldn't drive through. Traffic was backing up behind me, since I was waiting for him, and after about two minutes I simply said @#$% it, cranked the wheel, and bounced my parents Impala up the curb and over a sidewalk and flower bed, then back down the other side. My brother and sister were screaming at me the whole time and I got called all kinds of names, but I got parked, and out of the road.

Three inch hole saw. Figured that would be a decent sized opening with plugs of some kind available. Well, thanks anyway. When I pulled the liner a few months back, I did measure, but I did it in cellphone widths/lengths... and then lost the post-it... Unlike the liner in Xacto's pic, mine actually wraps up and over the bed rails. Maybe that's why my bed is still good. Oh gotcha! Well when you cut those holes you will no longer has that perk... :no: Yeah, I know that. It's why there are plans to put decent plugs into them. One step ahead of you! Oh, and Xacto, those dimensions were so perfect... the first time I measured it out, then drilled, and hit the tip of the loop right smack in the middle with the center bit of the hole saw. Took me a bit to figure out how to plunge around it without jacking up my hole... The other side was drilled a little off. ;) And the front I used the height and just guessed the distance from the bed, and very narrowly missed the loop again. Whether the bed is galvanized or not, once the zinc was corroded away, then the steel would rust anyway. Galvanization is pretty damn good, but even galvanized steel will rust in constant contact with trapped water.

Thanks! That's perfect! Well, thanks anyway. When I pulled the liner a few months back, I did measure, but I did it in cellphone widths/lengths... and then lost the post-it... Unlike the liner in Xacto's pic, mine actually wraps up and over the bed rails. Maybe that's why my bed is still good.

My bed is near mint underneath it. It's a factory liner and seals pretty well. When I pulled it up a few months ago, there was a small amount of gravel road dust under it, because that $#!& gets everywhere, but that was it. I should be able to go off that pic, thanks, but any chance you could get out a tape measure? I'd like to know an exact location, (top down and from the exterior edge of the bed) so I can measure twice and drill once, and hit the right spot four times. I'd rather not have to probe with the drill and hope for the best.

Short version: I need to know where the tie downs in the bed are located. Dimensions from outside edges/panels of bed are better. Long version: So I'm moving out of my apartment tomorrow, and I'm going to need to use my tie-downs in the bed. Trouble is, I've got a drop-in bed liner, and there are no cutouts to get at the tie-downs. I've pulled the liner once so I know they're there, but one of the PO's has it set up so bad (guessing it once had a canopy of some sort, and there are bolts and metal plates everywhere) that I won't have time to pull it out. I have to have this place spotless and all my stuff moved out by 3pm tomorrow, and am pretty far from being packed. Can someone get me measurements as to where the tie-downs are? My plan is to use a hole saw, I just need to know where to dill. I'd like to keep the holes as clean as possible so I can seal them off somehow in the future. Dimensions from the exterior of the bed are probably best (i.e. from the top of the bed rail and the front/back outside edge of the bed) because the liner doesn't hug the bed sides. Thanks!