gogmorgo

Cheap junk is cheap junk. There’s a reason why decent LEDs cost what they do. I won’t disagree that if you don’t want to pay for high-end LEDs, your money is better spent on incandescents.

I've never expected local pickup on anything from eBay, just view it as another online store. But I've also pretty well stopped using eBay if there's any other alternative. It's not bad from Canadian sellers, and if I could get sellers to just mail things to me directly getting stuff from the US wouldn't be a concern either, but their international shipping program makes it 50/50 on actually getting the things I order and it's usually a massive screw around getting the things that actually show up, on top of just being a massive bottleneck slowing down the process. Yes eBay is quick to refund when problems happen, but refunds don't exactly make up for waiting on something for a month only to find out I'm not getting the thing. Because eBay makes their sellers ship to a random third party forwarder that sent it on using a random courier that isn't the post office and won't accept my mailing address and doesn't service my area themselves and just sent it along another chain of couriers that won't take it to my address and no one knows where my package is anymore. I don't want to be facilitating sending rare items straight into an incinerator or landfill when they're not deliverable due to a bunch of incompetent middlemen.

They’re definitely different between long and short bed. On a short bed the shackle hangers are right at the back of the frame. Notice how in their photos it’s right underneath the bumper bracket instead of ahead of it like your long bed. There’s about six inches less frame behind the shackle mount on the shortbed, but the bumper brackets are the same. The bulge in the factory bumper bracket and the spacers used in the hitches exist to clear the shortbed shackle hanger… although the early bumper brackets didn’t all have the bulge because there were no early short beds so your ‘86 might just have flat bumper brackets, so in that case forget I said anything about that. Unless they expressly said they test fit them on a longbed and there’s no way it’ll work, it looks to me like all you’d need to do is drill the extra hole in the side and bottom of the frame. Maybe put a spacer under the side bolt to account for the bumper bracket not being there. The hangers themselves are the same between long and short and I’m pretty sure both frames are flat underneath in that whole area. Might be interesting fishing the nuts that deep into the longbed but it shouldn’t be impossible.

Radio installs aren’t always done by the best and brightest, even when paid for unfortunately. I wouldn’t trust the wiring at all if I didn’t know and trust whoever put it there. Track down where the radio is pulling power from. My short bed was a radio delete truck but had a stereo hacked into it. Whoever did it tapped into the cigarette lighter wire for the main power wire with a peel twist and tape and it was loose and intermittent. Fortunately more off than on. They also used the headlight switch wire to feed the illumination circuit instead of the dash lights so the radio illumination wasn’t dimmable, and then they managed to strip too much wire back for their butt splices at the radio itself and taped them together so the two wires were making contact, better contact than the power feed at the cigarette lighter. So if I was driving without the headlights on sometimes the stereo would come on after hitting a bump but wouldn’t last long. If I turned the headlights on when I was driving or with the key off the stereo would always work. But the connection at the cigarette lighter was bad enough it wouldn’t backfeed power anywhere else when I turned the headlights on with the key off while I was sitting parked. This is also the same stereo setup where it stopped making noise but was still powered on, so I checked the speaker wires for a short. Theres two pairs of speaker wires at the back of the stereo, one goes left and the other goes right. The one going left is shorted. The only speakers I’ve found are in the doors, so presumably it’s the driver’s door speaker that’s shorted. I didn’t want to deal with it at the time but wanted the stereo back so I just cut the wire to eliminate the short and get at least the passenger side speaker back online, and lo and behold when I snipped the wires to what I thought was the driver’s door speak I got my tunes back. From both door speakers. Don’t trust the PO’s stereo wiring. Check it all.

It’s going to drop a little bit with weight in it, but it shouldn’t be bouncing off the bump stops with only 500lbs in the bed, or even noticeably low, given that’s not much more than a third of the payload rating. My longbed looked like it was sitting normal when it was empty but when I measured it was 4” lower than original ride height. It would squat pretty hard with much weight at all back there. I wouldn’t have a problem with running a stock stamped cover if that’s all you want. The biggest thing with the upgrades for most people is hitting it against stuff. There’s some argument to be made about strength in the housing, but distorting the pumpkin isn’t really much of a concern, and I don’t think an extra 1/4” of material is going to make any difference if you manage to hit it hard enough to bend that gigantic casting. It won’t do anything at all to reinforce where the axle tubes press into it, which is more of a strength concern. For me in the ZJ the drain plug was nice because there’s not a lot of clearance between the diff cover and gas tank, so pulling the cover with the Jeep on the ground was annoying, and anything hitting the cover would have already gone through the tank to get there anyhow. The cover on the MJ is a bit more exposed, but if you’re not doing any massive rock crawling with it I doubt you’ll ever have an issue. I’ve seen more diff covers rust out than I’ve ever seen hammered into things, that’s the sort of trouble you need to be looking for.

If you have no spark it would be good to check where the spark stops. If you’ve got nothing out of the coil, not making it out of the distributor, etc. Firing order for an amc 2.5 is 1342 according to the internet. I’m too lazy to dig my ‘91 2.5 out from under the snow to read what’s on the intake. If you had the distributor out it would be good to make sure the distributor wasn’t put in 180° out. You might get some coughs with the spark firing on the exhaust stroke but it definitely won’t run. Pull the spark plug out of the #1 hole while you turn the engine over by hand and hold your thumb over it until it makes pressure, then verify where the distributor rotor is pointed. You can also use a bit of wire or something to probe the cylinder and watch where the piston hits the top of its stroke at #1, and double check the rotor is actually pointed at the #1 button on the cap. If it’s out by a tooth you might sometimes get it to fire a bit but it won’t run very well. Rotating the distributor to adjust timing is not a good option. The injector timing is determined by the cam sensor under the rotor, so rotating the housing will screw with injector timing. This is what Cruiser’s distributor indexing tip is about. Injector timing is more tolerant to being out than spark timing but Jeep did eventually put ears on the hold down bolt to locate the distributor and stop people from screwing with it, because it will cause problems. But if we’ve got no fire at all with starter fluid then that’s pretty indicative of a spark problem. I won’t pretend I know what “medium speed” means but the massive ship engines do like 100rpm flat out. I suspect vibrations aren’t such a big deal at 10hz. Running fuel delivery plumbing economically probably plays into it when the cylinders are the size of a hot tub and you can park a bus between them. It’s a very different world from what we deal with. And very irrelevant to this thread.

I’ve got what is as best as I can tell still the original d35 in my 4.0 longbed at 550,000km, and I’ve done nothing to it. So I don’t have any doubts that the D35 can hold up to reasonable use. I even had 31’s on it last winter, and I haven’t exactly babied the truck. But I also spent a bunch of money on the D35 in my ZJ, only to have it bend an axle shaft within a year, grenade a wheel end bearing and have the glitter storm wipe out everything I did to it. So I’m cautious about advising putting money into one. But if you’re looking for a good cover, I got the Dana “aftermarket” modular cast cover, and I’m pretty happy with it. Also available on RockAuto. My biggest reason for changing the cover was to get a drain plug so you don’t need to pull the whole cover to change the oil. The Dana cover is a lot cheaper than some of the other options with drain plugs, and it’s the only one I’ve seen that is the same shape as the original stamped cover to maintain the proper oil flow pattern off the ring gear. IMO this is pretty important for avoiding aeration, a loss in proper flow isn’t usually made up for by larger capacity. If you’re pulling the axle to do the work to it you might want to consider putting new springs in at the same time. Or at minimum getting a local shop to re-arch yours, they’ll likely add another leaf to the pack too to make up for the steel weakening from use. The leafs have had weight sitting on them for almost 40 years now and they’re probably sagged quite a bit. Air bags will screw with your brake proportioning if you still have the load-sensing valve in the system.

There’s also the possibility whoever was in the warehouse couldn’t find it if there was only one or two in inventory, and the next guy might do better. Having worked in the back end of a parts store before it was shocking to me how often this would happen. Something would get pushed off the back of a shelf, or stuck at the end of a row instead of someone making a hole in the proper spot on a shelf. Hopefully it works out for you. Worst case Ontario the repeat failures to locate should trigger a deeper look into the problem.

Marketplace’s one major advantage is that so many people use it. It’s basically taken over the market at this point. The volume of stuff on marketplace is definitely second to none. But the search algorithm is about as awful as the one in your news feed. The noise to signal ratio is way too high. Try looking for a tire size, and it just pulls up all listings for tires. It pulls up so many related search results when I’m usually trying to find something specific, and it completely ignores your search radius half the time, and then it just fades into “random stuff that isn’t even tangentially related to your search but we think you’ll be interested in”. And the huge number of ads anymore is ridiculous, sponsored or suggested content vs stuff I actually came to look at. It’s also really buggy, in that depending on what platform you’re using to view it you lose access to some features… like item descriptions and photo captions. Basically it’s about as problematic as the rest of the Metaverse. I haven’t really used Craigslist much. It hasn’t really caught on up here outside of Vancouver and maybe a little bit in Toronto. It seemed pretty clunky the few times I’ve tried to use it, but then I don’t have much experience with it. Prior to Marketplace taking over Kijiji used to be pretty big up here, and it still has decent following, people use what they’re comfortable with and a lot of people simply aren’t on facebook. I think it was associated somehow with eBay at some point, maybe? It’s an awful lot like eBay as a platform, just only local classified ads without all the storefronts and businesses and cheap junk from overseas. Most of the ads don’t pretend to be listings, and the odd paid promoted content is clearly identified as such, and just moved to the top of relevant search results (so you can scroll past it all) instead of getting pushed at everyone. The search works very nicely, and the listings break down into pretty specific caregories too (“vehicle parts and accessories” breaks down into 12 sub categories, as an example) so you can actually filter things. And you can use it as a guest without having to make an account. Kijiji is unfortunately a lot less popular than it used to be, but there’s still enough people using it for it to stay relevant. Marketplace is sooo frustrating to use in comparison.

I've had places cancel orders because they're going to show up late. I don't get it either, I'd rather get something a day or two late than not at all. The US website shows they can get it to a random store in North Dakota by the 3rd, which seems surprising to me for something that doesn't exist. But that said I'm only seeing one in inventory in all of Canada, so maybe inventory is running kinda low for you as well.

These look like the original Truck-lite LEDs to me. https://www.truck-lite.com/27490c.html Truck-lite has moved away from these. I think the ECE (European spec) is the only one still available in this design. Double check if your jurisdiction allows them before running them. These are one of the most counterfeited lights out there, so I'd be hesitant to buy them anywhere except Truck-lite themselves or a reputable Truck-lite dealer. Quality with the knock-offs is all over the map, so while you might end up with one that's sorta okay-ish you're equally likely to end up with something worse than a sealed beam in terms of light output, or something super bright that's aimed in completely the wrong direction and isn't useful to you while completely blinding everyone else on the road. All the counterfeits are probably why Truck-lite isn't really making these any more, they don't want to be associated with how bad the knock-offs are. Honestly that's true for most of the cheap off-shore brand LEDs you'll find online. Headlights are a precision optical device, and a tiny build problem can translate to a terrible product. There's a reason quality lighting products from reputable brands cost as much as they do. The LED bulb replacements are also getting much better than they were in even the recent past, so using something like a H4 housing and putting an LED bulb into it is a much better option than it was, assuming you're going with a high-quality bulb. The best ones out there now look like a flat board with a single diode or very small strip of diodes on each side, basically trying to replicate the filament of a halogen bulb. Because the light is mostly still perpendicular to the board it comes out in an hourglass sort of shape vs the 360º circle from a true incandescent filament, most of the good LED bulbs will let you rotate the board to put the hourglass in the most useful parts of the housing. We've been using Phillips LED bulbs in some of our vehicles at work because a local parts store stocks them, and they seem alright for the most part. I'm still not sold on light colour temperatures above 5000K, but that may be down to personal preference anymore. I just find the super white lights make it harder to see in snow with all the white light reflecting back at me. The cooler yellower light seems to scatter better or something, it's much easier on the eyes. https://www.philips.ca/c-p/11342XUX2/x-tremeultinon-led-car-headlight-bulb Ironically while I was looking up the Phillips bulbs, I discovered they make an H6054 replacement that looks very much like the original Truck-lite. I've got no experience with them to recommend for or against, I just happen to know they're a thing that exists. I imagine similar caution in regards to counterfeits should be taken as with the Truck-lites. https://www.philips.ca/c-p/L6054X1/led-integral-beam-lamp

It’s perfectly legitimate not to be on the facepage. I know plenty of young people who aren’t. I don’t even think it’s a particularly good classifieds platform, or for communications in general. It’s just kinda dumb to complain about someone posting a link to facebook because you can’t see the contents. If you wanted details about something posted to a platform you’re not on there’s plenty of ways to ask. “This generation” has figured that one out already. There’s lots of competing platforms and no one expects everyone to be on all of them and no one’s going to shame anyone for not using a specific one. Looks like a good price on a decent car. Hopefully it goes to a good home where it’ll be appreciated.

Excess hydrocarbons in the test result then? Usually that’s an ignition concern, the classic tune-up items, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. If they’re newer it’s still worth pulling a spark plug or two just to see how they’re doing. I’d also make sure your engine is coming all the way up to operating temperature. Cruiser’s tips at Cruiser54.com could also be helpful if you can’t find a problem somewhere.

Well the ad’s on Facebook so if you want the thing you’re going to need an account to talk to the guy. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Unless it’s been cross posted to Craigslist in Cullman, AL or something.

Recent iOS update that I just installed has me on a new strategy for dealing with the upside down pictures. Seems like no matter how many times I open and close the editor and save changes between steps the new photo editor is recognizing that when I spin it back over it’s just turning the file back to the way it was,and stays upside down. Frustrating. So instead of flipping it, now I’m cropping it slightly. No rotations, just a crop. Why this would work makes no sense to me. You’d think not changing the orientation wouldn’t change the orientation… but here we are.

Not really a Christmas present cause I’ve been sitting on these parts basically since last Christmas, but finally and slowly working towards making it all fit.

Running cold makes it run rich. A vacuum leak or obstruction in the line to the map sensor could do it. Sticky or leaky injectors. Exhaust leak before the O2 sensor making it think it’s running lean. Incomplete combustion because of a spark problem would cause similar symptoms. What makes you think it’s running rich?

If it tweaked the windshield frame enough to distort it would crack the glass, or as pointed out the doors wouldn’t fit properly. The a-pillars of cheese thing is more of a concern when you land the truck on them. A branch falling on the roof gets to use the suspension to absorb some of the impact.

I think your best bet for affordability vs features would be finding a used professional tool. Like a Snap-on Solus or something. Most modern professional diagnostic tools are just a Bluetooth dongle and software on a rugged tablet. But they’re not cheap. In theory the software is out there to run the same level of performance on a device you already have with a Bluetooth dongle but I’ve never done it. Some parts stores will pull codes for you but I don’t know how in depth they’ll go. Sometimes with ABS stuff you want to watch sensor data as you’re driving and the parts store likely won’t do that for you.

You can get moisture absorbing pouches at the hardware store if you think excessive humidity is the problem. They’re sold for controlling odours and stuff in closets or safes, toss one under each seat. Some of them are single use, but some are “rechargeable” by baking them in the oven to boil off the water. But I would say it’s very likely your back window is leaking. You can confirm by using a garden hose or wand wash and watch for leakage. It’s not unusual for the urethane holding it in to fail. If that’s the case it should be pretty easy for a glass shop to cut it out and glue it back in, so long as there isn’t any rust in the frame. You might even be able to push gently from the inside and watch to see if the glass lifts off. I pulled one at a junk yard a couple years ago and barely even needed to cut the urethane, it just peelled off. A lot of places will just try to gob some more urethane on the inside to seal it, but that’s not a legit solution on a window that’s been installed 20+ years imo. If the urethane failed in one spot it’s failing in others. There’s also tons of other spots that can leak into the interior. A bad one I had was the a/c drain tube was plugged, and it would dump water out of the heater vents. There’s a hose on the firewall above the starter. You can pop it off pretty easily, and if water dumps out then you can shove a screwdriver or something down the hose to unblock it. The end is supposed to be pinched off to prevent dust from getting in (it’s only so effective) so don’t snip it.

You might still get some abs action on pavement. Just be careful about it. Speed sensor codes can be tricky. If it’s a circuit code it could easily be the sensor or wiring, but more often than not I find performance or erratic signal codes to be because of what it’s pointing at. Bad wheel bearings moving tone wheels around, tone wheels packing full of stuff or sections rusting away. Even rust jacking pushing perfectly good sensors away from perfectly good tone wheels.

I won’t pretend I’m familiar with the Avalon, or other Toyotas of the vintage. The “parking brake” light is also the brake failure warning light, and will come on if you don’t have fluid somewhere you should have it. Often there’s a level sensor on the reservoir cap. Sometimes there’s a switch sensing differential pressures between brake circuits. Sometimes an electrical fault that mimics the operation of the switch can turn the light on without a fluid or mechanical problem. The abs light coming on would indicate a fault code. And it can be helpful to know what that is. Not all cheap code readers will read ABS codes, unfortunately. But some of the more common things to turn the light on can be quickly checked. Fluid level or leaks, bad wheel bearings causing erratic wheel speed readings, or seized calipers, for example. Maybe the brakes pull one direction or the other. But you’re kinda flying blind and guessing without knowing what the thing is complaining about. Something else a proper diagnostic scan tool can do is cycle the ABS pump to bleed it. This isn’t usually necessary but if air came in during the flush process it can get trapped inside the pump. You can sometimes get it to bleed out by using the brakes in a way that’ll activate the ABS, like a hard stop on a loose surface, but it’s not always effective.

265 wide tires on stock wheels on a stock axle are real close to the inner fenders. Close enough I can’t get chains on anyhow. That’s nominally a 10.5” wide tire, which is what most 31’s are. I’d rather have it a little wider. I definitely wouldn’t want it to be narrower than stock either. The MJ isn’t exactly a precision handling machine. For one thing the steering geometry is set up for the XJ’s much shorter wheelbase. Rear axle width doesn’t generally factor into Ackerman steering, but the MJ is out to lunch there already, especially with a long wheelbase. I doubt most of us would notice the difference in rear track width. We’re talking about handling at the limits of grip, which really isn’t something we should be approaching on public roads anyhow. And the effect of a wider rear axle would tend towards understeer too, which is generally considered to be safer on a road vehicle.

Don’t point the torch at anything that’ll burn? I guess I forgot to add that we usually did it with the engine outside the car. You could maybe do the same with an induction heater to lower the risk. Nothing should really be close enough to the exhaust to catch fire just from radiant heat, the concern really would just be avoiding hitting anything plastic or rubber with the torch, or a painted surface. The most common locations for cracks is in the notches of the Ys.

No reason you can’t, but it’s not always going to work out. Thin steel like that gets weird stresses in it as it heat cycles, not to mention the engine moving between the mounts, and often where it cracks its been flexed back and forth a bunch to the point the steel has lost a lot of strength, hence the crack. Sometimes you get lucky but more often than not it just ends up cracking right next to the weld again. You can mess around with heat treating, normalizing or whatever the process is called, but it requires a specialized oven and fixtures, and unless you get everything absolutely correct you’ll just warp the whole thing so it never seals again and stresses the crap out of it when you bolt it on anyway. So basically not really worth doing for a not-great oem manifold. But manifolds aren’t cheap, especially good ones, and the cheap ones aren’t very good. So if you don’t want to replace the thing it’s at least worth trying to weld up some minor cracks. For the best chance of success, what we did back when I was very breifly involved with race cars with fully custom headers, was always weld with it bolted to the engine to avoid warping, and then take a torch and get the whole area around the welds cherry red before and again after welding. I can’t imagine it’s guaranteed every time successful, but it at least made us feel like we were doing something. It’s a bit pedantic but I don’t think there’s a hard and fast definition distinguishing between a “manifold” and a “header”. They’re both exhaust collectors, I suppose there’s something to be said for being a log style manifold vs a y-pipe collector “header” but the oem manifold is somewhere in between.