gogmorgo

Yeah, I'll have to do that. Assuming my local Home Hardware even carries it... It's a strange one that mostly sells groceries and booze.

I'm 6'2" and 220, so... Yes? Lots of head room although I might appreciate a little more distance between my seat and the pedals, maybe another inch or two to unbend my knees a little. But I've taken it on 6+ hour drives and not had seating position be an issue. Real estate is at a premium though with only 8' between the firewall and hatch.

I've read it all. ;) I've become very familiar with Baxter's site in the last 15 months or so. I've wanted one since I was like, 14 years old, and I grew up with the internet. I'm pretty sure I new more about this one before I went and saw it than the guy selling it. But I appreciate the gesture, all the same. :thumbsup:

Try bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor first. I'm pretty confident 24 psi isn't enough but I don't know the numbers for a Renix system. You need to check both at idle and with the fuel regulator unplugged. Having the idle increase when you unplug the brake booster is normal, as you've just created a large vacuum leak, so more air is getting into the intake. It has the same effect as opening the throttle.

Go to the first post and hit "edit", bottom right corner. Then view the full editor, and you can change the title of the thread from there by typing something new in the box before you hit save.

But why would you need to pull a hand throttle all the way out to put it in 4x4? Another vote for CAD lock.

Don't want to start an argument either. It just seems every now and again someone's dismissive of the risks they're running, and I might get a little... emotional. I apologize for that I managed to break both of my rusted out end links somehow. Can't think of how both would go because you'd think once one broke the other wouldn't see any load? Maybe both at once? I don't know. But I was lucky to find a set of nearly-new ones on an '85 XJ at a yard, $10 for the pair.

Спасибо!

My MJ at stock height was pretty sketchy on the road with no sway bar. Crosswinds became a huge deal (why is it so windy in Saskatchewan? Because Manitoba sucks and Alberta blows! B) ), not to mention the cornering uncertainty and the increased rollover risk as Eagle pointed out. You likely know all this already, but please keep it in mind. Remember, an object in motion tends to remain in motion. All cars will tend to resist cornering, which results in the car leaning outwards. Load also transfers to the outside tires, unloading the springs on the inside, which increases the lean, more lean makes for more load transfer, more lean, and so on. The tendency to stay in motion also applies to rotation, so the car's body will want to continue rolling once it starts. If it rolls too much, it will pick up the axle, by which point you'll definitely not end up where you're trying to steer. Another issue is that as the vehicle rolls, your camber, caster, etc. change, meaning your tires will loose grip and you're more likely to under- or oversteer into whatever you're trying to avoid. Now, your truck isn't going to just go ahead and flip itself over every time you touch the steering wheel, but the sway bar, also called an "anti-roll bar" is one of the few things working to reduce the chance of that. It resists the initiation of body roll as well as the body's tendency to continue rolling once it starts. I can appreciate not wanting to shell out for fancy sway bar disconnects, but the risks associated with running without a sway bar on the road aren't justifiable by an increase in entertainment value of a hobby. You're not the only person on the road, even if you're barely ever on it. Leave the sway bar on, and spend a couple extra minutes before and after wheeling to unbolt the links and tie it up out of the way if you really can't wheel with it on.

I've seen the recent change that things can be attached to posts now, but the 500kb max file size is tiny. See this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=449806 The gist is you need to upload to an external host and link to the file. Lots of people here use photobucket, although they occasionally change their link structure meaning you have to go back and fix posts. I've recommended imgur as well, as they are more consistent. Lately I've been using Facebook a lot, as most of my pictures get uploaded there anyhow, but there's also a risk there of links getting changed, and you also need to make sure the privacy is completely public.

Yup. Also has the crankshaft nut to accept it, and should have had the crank start handle in the tool kit with the tire-changing jack, along with a basic road-side repair kit that had wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, and everything needed to put a proper patch on the inside of a tire. Unfortunately none of that stuff made it's way into my hands. Crank starting it is the kind of thing you really want to try, at least once, but I haven't found something yet I can use as a handle, or one for sale.

For those wondering about the title of the post, figured I should add something. It's Russian for "Made in the USSR". As I mentioned, these things were produced pretty well unchanged. And by that I mean despite mine being built five years after the Soviet Union collapsed, most of the parts still have Сделано В СССР stamped on them. There's probably still parts coming off the assembly lines with with it.

No, the Cyrillic text does not always indicate spam. I've been intending on starting this thread for a while now, so here goes. This was my daily driver for most of the last year and a half. It's still going to be splitting duties with the MJ over the next little while. I just need to reoplumb the heater for the winter, and she'll be good to go. I picked it up early last summer after my MJ's engine started knocking. It came down to a decision of whether to fix the MJ or buy this, and I decided to roll the dice on it. Still haven't regretted it. Most of you likely haven't seen one of these before. Some of you may have never even heard of it. But what it is is a 1996 Lada Niva. It was pretty well the soviet answer to the Jeep, or at least to the cheap asian Jeep imitations. Pretty well the Lada brand was developed to bring reasonable vehicles cheaply to the Soviet citizens, and as such Lada is pretty infamous for "borrowing" other manufacturers' designs and never discontinuing production. This is the first vehicle they designed entirely themselves, with the goal of a cheap reasonable vehicle that would be useful on the Siberian "roads", inspiring the enthusiasts' slogan "Built for Siberia, not Suburbia". It entered production in 1977 and it was only recently they announced they would stop building them. The chassis is still basically unchanged, although some things have been upgraded over the years. It's a unibody vehicle, so fairly light weight. It weighs just over 2600 lbs, despite the 4x4 drivetrain. The engine is a 1.7L SOHC 4 cylinder with throttle-body injection that makes something like 85hp and 105lb-ft. It has a five-speed manual transmission, coupled with a divorced transfer case. The Tcase doesn't have a 2wd mode, instead having high and low range with a manual locking centre differential. The front suspension is independant, with a long(ish)-travel SLA double-wishbone setup. The rear axle is five-linked. Coils at all four corners, of course. The interior is spartan, to say the least. Factory stereos weren't an option yet in '96. Cloth seats, buckets up front and a two-seat bench in the back. Interior plastics make 90's GM stuff look luxurious, but then luxuries are for decadent capitalist pigs, right? I've got the highest trim level, the Cossack package, which means I have a leaky sunroof and a sticker on the back. So far it's been pretty good to me. 45,000 km (28,000 miles) when I bought it for $1000. It's now at 57,000km (35,000 miles). I had to replace some blubs, the horn, and some wiring to pass a safety inspection just after I bought it, but since then I've only had to replace the starter. Well, I've also had to address an issue with the brakes (a banjo bolt jiggled loose) and I also had a plastic nipple between the clutch master cylinder and the remote reservoir break and suck air into the master (which sucked but was a pretty easy fix). I also had to disconnect the daytime running light circuit because for some reason it was causing a fuse to blow every time I hit the wipers. That's not to say everything else is in A1 condition. A popular saying among Lada owners is "always half broken but never broken down." The transmission has been hurting since I bought it, the brakes could use a bit of tweaking, the engine runs pretty rough below 2000rpm, and there are a couple rust spots that need addressing. I also still have some minor battle damage to repair after getting clipped by a B-train changing lanes (not entirely his fault, he got cut off by an idiot in a white Lexus), so that's a mirror to replace, a small dent to pull, and I've already replaced the tire which needed replacing anyway. I even had the alignment checked when I got the new tires and it was still spot on. This thing's a friggen tank... that or it's light enough it just bounced off. This was taken just after the collision. Even with the $#!&ty tires I had on it all winter it cut through deep snow like no one's business, and it'll drag itself up hills the MJ would struggle with. On road it's more engaging to drive as well. I'll admit that might just be because it's a manual, but it almost seems to enjoy getting tossed into corners at speed while the MJ seemed to do it begrudgingly. Lots more feedback through the manual steering as well, and the suspension leads to much more predictable handling, even with the front sway bar missing. I honestly thought it never had one, although I've recently discovered what some vacant studs were for. Parts are also dirt cheap due to the immensely long and very recent production run, although they're all on the other side of the Atlantic. There's a limited used-parts market here in Canada as well since they were sold here up until the late nineties. I'm hard pressed to say which one I like better, this or the MJ. This has more of a cool factor for me in that you don't see them all the time, but the MJ is almost as unique (it just blends in better or gets dismissed as just another old mid-size truck) and is much better put together. It's almost in better shape, too, despite the fact it's got almost 10 times the mileage on it. Future plans for it? Fixing all the piddly little things. I'd like to get into SCCA rally cross. I've been a Badlands region member for the last couple years, if anyone else is, although I haven't made it down to an event yet. I've also got dreams of putting a Jeep 4.0 into it, although it'll be a fairly major project to squeeze something that long into it. And some more random pics. Hard to believe this thing took a hit from a big rig on this side even though nothing's been repaired.

As far as I can tell, the Eliminator package was just seats, wheels, and stickers. Most of the HO MJ's seem to have been special orders, so who knows what could have been ordered, seeing as you could tick whatever option boxes you wanted.

Yes, it's only a three percent increase in mass, but it's also equivalent to a three percent increase in gear ratio. That's a combined effect of 9%. Not only that, but the extra mass of the tire is largely concentrated toward the outside of the tire, increasing it's effect on rotational acceleration. You're looking at about a 10% reduction in acceleration, which is more than enough to be noticeable on the butt dyno.

Not much to go on. Does it not move, or does it just struggle to do so? When was the last time you checked the trans fluid? Have you tried unplugging the trans computer to shift manually?

Yup. 2.25 is stock size. Going up a size with the entire pipe will move your power band upwards, so you'll notice more power towards the top of your rev range, but at a cost of low-range torque. The same applies the other way, going down a size will increase low-end torque at a cost of top-end HP. In my mind, the engineers already picked the best compromise, and since I don't use it much beyond what it was intended for, I'm sticking with that size.

I can't promise that it'll work, as I simply don't know. I could go out and try to pull the vacuum sensor from my 231 if I have time tomorrow (too dark now), but I'd rather not risk doing something unknown to the one in my 242 which is in the truck.

Check the connector for the headlamp switch to see if it's melted. It's a common problem. Whether it is or not, you should look up a headlight harness upgrade. There are commercially available products or you could make your own. Basically the stock headlight wiring isn't quite up to the task, which leads to overheating the headlamp switch. Mine set itself on fire. The upgrade harness uses relays to reduce the load on the headlight switch, preventing fires (or other headlight failures) from happening. The other thing I would check is whether you have power to the headlight harness. The connector for it is kinda below the airbox, behind the driver's side headlight, towards the bottom of the fender. It might need a good cleaning. Also, the chance of having both filaments of both headlights burn out at the same time is slim, but still worth checking. Do you have parking lights?

If it fits an 87, it'll fit an 86. But there is a difference, it just doesn't matter here. In '86, there were no short beds, they weren't introduced until '87. Originally, the bumper brackets sat completely flat against the frame, as they would do on any long bed MJ from any year. On the short beds, the rear spring shackle hanger is much closer to the end of the frame, to the point where the bumper bracket needs a bulge in it to clear it. '86's and some earlier long beds got the flat brackets until stock ran out, but they stopped making the flat brackets and both short and long beds started getting the clearanced brackets. But that doesn't really affect you. If it fits an 87+ short bed, it'll fit an '86 or any other year long bed, it's just not guaranteed to go the other way.

Automatic or manual? This is one of the connectors for my automatic transmission on my '91 factory 4x4, the one the 4x4 light(s) go through, and also the shift solenoids, I think. Actually this is off my '93 parts XJ, also a factory AW4 4x4, but everything is pretty similar. It's near the transmission dipstick tube, near the firewall on the passenger side of the head. Here's the half that goes down to the tcase. Here's the connector on the MJ with everything hooked up. (and the motor in place). There are two similar plugs, the other's for the neutral safety switch. There are wires and vacuum lines in the loom for that connector. One of the vacuum lines connects to the engine bay vacuum harness near the connector. Two of the wires, an orange and black, branch off and go to the CAD, along with the vacuum lines that actuate the CAD. Those two wires connect to the switch on the cad, and are for the 4x4 light. Down on the back of the transfer case, this is where things hook up. The top connector is for the speedometer, an unrelated system with a separate harness. The bottom is the vacuum switch that actuates the CAD. This is what the non-cad version looks like on the back of my '93 242. Apologies for the poor lighting and awkward angle. You can see the 4x4 light switch and wires beside the fill plug, just below the identification tag. Going back to the '91, 231 drivetrain for example purposes (easier to take pictures of it), this is where the 242's 4x4 wires connect to the harness. It's there on the '91, even though it has the 231. It's on the driver's side, at the top near where the tcase bolts to the transmission. The other loom visible is for the shift solenoids, and they split near the shift lever on the side of the transmission. I understand that on the later, non-cad (231 equipped) models, there's a separate connector here for both transfer cases, but I can't confirm that because I didn't check the '93 trans before I put it in. But when I swapped in the '93 4.0/aw4/242, the trans/tcase connector (that I pointed out above) plugged right in. The part-time 4x4 light works in 4hi (part time) and 4lo, and goes out in full-time 4hi. I imagine it would just take a bulb to get the full-time light working, but I haven't pulled out the cluster to check. I don't know if it would work or not, but the newer electric switch may swap in place of the vacuum one on the back of the tcase. It looks like the switch would just screw out/in. If that's the case, the actual wiring of the harness should be fairly easy, just plug it in. Of course this whole post might be wasted if you've got a manual that doesn't have the trans connector, or if the 2wd trans connectors are different. You probably also don't have a bulb in either 4x4 light.

Hit a milestone today. Well, I guess that was yesterday, but I only got back from the trip and haven't gone to bed yet. Took the MJ up to Saskatoon to move the last of my stuff here, as I managed to get a winter job at the park. While I was there the front right brake calliper seized, either due to age or because it just sat for 16 months. Found out as a plume of smoke puffed out of the wheel well as I pulled up to a fuel pump. Minor heart attack for a few of the employees and customers I expect. It was a bit of an ordeal because the parts store had the wrong calliper listed (no idea what it was for, but it was MASSIVE. Easily twice the size of the correct one. When I said this the guy behind the counter looked it up on rock auto, and brought the right calliper. Only then I installed it, and when I went to bleed it, found out it was the left calliper. Not so good on the wrong side. By this time the store was closed, so the next day, I looked up the part number myself and called to confirm it was there. I'd asked about both when I was in the store, but was told they only had the right side (despite the fact they sold me the left one) but when I gave them the correct number, it magically appeared on their shelf. So I went back and bought the correct one. I also kept the wrong one in case the other one took a $#!& on the drive home, which it didn't. On the second trip to the store, I also grabbed a t-stat and gasket. I didn't swap much more than I had to on the new-to-me motor, and the temp gauge is kinda wandering a bit. I don't remember it doing that before, so hopefully this solves it. I also picked up a flowmaster 40 to fit my new down pipe (it uses do much less fuel when there's somewhere to put an O2 sensor), although I didn't grab the tubing and hardware I need to put it in (kicking myself), so it'll have to wait. Otherwise the 600 mile trip on the open downpipe was a loud but good, uneventful shakedown run. So nice to have the MJ back.

My '91 MJ (pictured) and '93 parts XJ both have the same speedometer as 91pioneer posted. The 200km/hr top of the gauge,which is a little optimistic, translates to 125 mph. I had the old 4.0 up to iirc an indicated 187ish km/hr, but that was also the last trip that old tired motor will ever do. Correcting for speedometer error that's probably closer to 175 km/hr or ~110 mph. Like Minuit said, it was weird in that all the vibrations and stuff got worse up to about 80mph but by 85(140) they all smoothed out and the MJ felt like it hunkered down into some kind of attack mode. It also felt like it got quieter, although that might just have been the wind noise drowning everything else out...

Have you checked for codes? It's a simple procedure that requires no tools, just turning the key and counting check-engine light flashes. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ Sounds a little bit like when my throttle-position sensor started going bad, but that's just a guess.

The process for pulling an axle shaft is: Wheel/tire Brake calliper Brake rotor Axle nut Hub Shaft The axle nut can be a bugger, and sometimes it's helpful to break it loose with the wheel on the ground to prevent it turning. The hub bolts shouldn't be too bad, but the hub itself may be stuck in pretty good. I've had to pound a chisel between the hub and knuckle to get them apart. I've read that there may be a c-clip on the passenger inner shaft. The last time I broke a shaft, circumstances lead to me driving ~600 miles with the shaft. The axle shaft actually contacted the centre pin of the diff often enough and long enough that it rolled itself a lip that would go through the splines. Had to use a Dremel to grind down the end it the shaft.