robfg67

I drove out from Walpole, MA to Fairfield, PA today to visit family. About an 8 hour drive and my MJ performed like a champ. A lifted MJ in the color red passed me just before Harrisburg and I'm wondering if he is a member. Off to a local junk yard tomorrow morning that I've been told has 3 MJ's. I like this place!

Thanks Jeff, 20 years of oxidation made me question if I was missing something. And yes, I also realized that my washers could be used like hub caps.

Ok, so I pulled the CAD assembly from the front axle and removed the 3 c-clips. I can’t figure out how the shaft separates from the housing. Perhaps I’m as dumb as a bag of…well, CAD assemblies, but can someone let me know how to separate these two so I can add the washers? Lastly, I bought 5/8” washers from the hardware store and now that I have this thing open, they look too big. The outside diameter is 1 3/4”.

I have the 5-Speed Peugeot (BA-10) in my '89.

The doner is out of a 1990 XJ, 21 spline input. I found one post on a Cherokee Forum site that said mine is also a 21 spline. What do you say Pete?

I'm buying a NP 242 from our good friend Twisty and I have a few questions not answered in any of the multiple forum searches. My MJ is an '89 with the 4.0L and 5-speed BA-10 transmission with the CAD on the front axle. 1. I plan on shimming the CAD so it is always engaged. Does the other end of the vacuum wires at the TC get used? If not, can I just take them out altogether? 2. Will the 231 vent hose fit on the 242? 3. Will my speedometer cable fit on the 242? 4. Can I reuse the shift fork linkage from my 231 on the 242? Thanks fellas, and Twisty, feel free to chime in too!

Where did you get the ignition switch? From everything written here, it sounds like this is the problem. It's unusual but not unheard of to get a bad switch. Also, there is small steel rod on that runs down the fuse box side of the column that controls the high beams-it just fell out of the holder. I had a bad switch that did some funky stuff before i replaced it with a good one. Lastly can you swap-in a similar sized battery from another vehicle to test. How about the condition of your battery cables?

Where did you get the ignition switch? From everything written here, it sounds like this is the problem. It's unusual but not unheard of to get a bad switch. Also, there is small steel rod on that runs down the fuse box side of the column that controls the high beams-it just fell out of the holder. I had a bad switch that did some funky stuff before i replaced it with a good one. Lastly can you swap-in a similar sized battery from another vehicle to test. How about the condition of your battery cables?

Yeah, I suppose it could be the exhaust pipe making the noise. I replaced all the u-joints a while ago so they should be fine. I've been thinking about this all night and instead of using washers, I'm going to cut a flat piece of metal that will cover the entire surface area of the plate and drill 4 holes in it for the threaded rods. This should extend the bracket enough to give the exhaust pipe some clearence.

Yeah, I suppose it could be the exhaust pipe making the noise. I replaced all the u-joints a while ago so they should be fine. I've been thinking about this all night and instead of using washers, I'm going to cut a flat piece of metal that will cover the entire surface area of the plate and drill 4 holes in it for the threaded rods. This should extend the bracket enough to give the exhaust pipe some clearence.

This question is more for Eagle, but if anyone else has experience with mounts, please chime in. The exhaust pipe was making contact with the cross member so I went ahead and disassembled the cross member and removed the transmission mount. The rubber piece was not torn or otherwise compromised, so I’ll assume it was compressed. Eagle, I assume you suggested to add washers to the 4 bolts on the mount that mate to the cross member. My only concern with that fix is that the mount will not have its entire surface area in contact with the cross member-only the diameter of the 4 washers will be in contact with the CM. Is that correct? Am I missing something else here? The bottom line is that I need to put it back together before Monday morning, so there is no harm in trying the “washer method” because if it doesn’t solve the problem, I’ll just buy a replacement mount and install it next weekend.

Yeah, you're always stirring-up things MiNi Beast!

Is this a fight??? :fs1: First of all, I never said I was an expert on this subject or the write-up I suggest is better than anyone else’s-just that I recently did this upgrade and it works great. The 20 year old factory headlight wiring uses smaller wire (numerically higher gauge) compared to the load that can be pulled through them - this results in a voltage drop over the span of the headlight harness, and less voltage means less bright lights.

The guy is in Canada, so I'm guessing its pretty cold outside right now, he's experiencing back spasms, its dark, and the truck is in a ditch-I'd say it's pretty much near impossible to swap-out right now. Just saying! :no:

hornbrod, if I told you how many hours I spent trying to figure out the 87 plug relay issue you would pass out is disbelief! :ack:

Sure sounds like the fuel pump to me & yes it's located in the tank. It would be almost impossible to replace while you’re on the side of the road. Perhaps you might get lucky and have a bad fuse or electrical connection. As far as towing her, any good tow guy can run their recovery cable and pull her into a suitable lift position. However the cost for their time is usually substantial. Do you have AAA or equivalent?

I used the write-up listed below with one important difference-combine the two low beam wires to the top 87 plug on the low beam relay and combine the two high beam wires to the 87 plug on the high beam relay: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm I used these lamps from Quadratec and couldn’t be happier with the performance difference. Remember, swapping in new H4 lamps will help, but unless you upgrade the wiring, the old wiring will not get enough juice to run the lamps at peak efficiency. http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_02.htm My total cost for headlamps & wiring materials was about $200.

Thanks, I'll remove the crossmember and inspect more carefully this weekend. Look for pictures!!!

I have a driveline shudder in the MJ and strongly suspect the 20 year old transmission mount. I did some research and found a picture of a couple of mounts-thanks to Jim of RI! Can someone tell me which mount I need for my MJ? It has the 5 speed Peugeot transmission with the 4.0 engine and is 4WD. The local Jeep dealer quoted me $43 for the smaller one on the left (PN: 5200 2334) and $275 for the larger one on the right (PN: 8350 5567).

Yeah, Tampa has a chance, but the Giants are a much more complete team. The AFC is wide open. Pittsburgh's defense will take them far and I'm not sold on Tennesee for a second.

That Pittsburgh defense in the 2cd half was a monster. It's looking more & more like it will be the Colts at Pittsburgh for the AFC Championship for the chance to play the Giants in Tampa.

Any chance Chrysler puts this MJ on Craigslist after they file for bankruptcy? I read an article in the WSJ yesterday that said GM has stopped putting batteries in the wall clocks to save money.

I'd be interested in knowing how to replace the fuse box too. Some of the contacts in my box are failing. Has anyone does this before?

Is there a "holy crap, I wish I were there smiley"? Did they raise the hood, could you sit inside, do you have your picture with it?

Same story as Akula69. I used Permatex RTV and no issues.