robfg67

4WD-I know there is 20 years of rust on her-but this rotor is not moving!

In the process of replacing u-joints in the front axle shafts and I can't get the rotor off. I'm using this write-up and I just got the caliper off & secured. Any tricks or tips? http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm

My State Inspection is coming due in a couple months and I’m starting to sweat! The hazard light switch on the steering column is broken. Specifically it is no longer in the hole and I can’t screw a new one in its place. I took a Cherokee column apart at a JY before and it wasn’t pretty-I couldn’t figure out how best to remove the mechanism that the hazard switch fits into. Does anyone have any experience with this? Does anyone have instructions on correctly disassembling the column so I can reinstall a functioning hazard switch?

Is there a metal against metal sound? Typically a bad u-joint will make a grinding noise.

Yeah, Oizarod115, can you provide some detail/instructions on how to do this?

Ok, this is not a big project, but here it is... I recently swapped-out the valve cover gasket with the Fel-Pro product. Let me say that this is a quality product and strongly recommend it. Here is picture of the inside of valve cover gasket. I guess this is what 200K miles worth of crud looks like: I ended up cleaning the baked-on crud off the inside of cover including disassembling the two port elements-unfortunately I neglected to snap a picture of the clean cover. I used a piece of cardboard to keep track of the position of each bolt: Exposed head-fortunately no surprises here: Valve cover painted with heat resistant paint: Head with gasket installed: Painted valve cover installed. Its black-does that mean I have the 190 HP HO engine now?

Just wanted to finish the story on my ‘old school theft deterrent system’… I had to go to my local locksmith to find one: …and here is the lock around the brake & clutch pedals:

Thanks Pete-I'll put a skim coat of RTV on the pan side only!

Just a little history... I replaced the 3 O-rings on the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, CCV valve and air intake ventilation hoses that run to air box and she still leaks (a small amount of oil), so by processes of elimination the rear main seal is next. So my question is this... I plan on using the 1-piece Fel-Pro oil pan gasket for re-installation of the oil pan. Does RTV need to be placed on the entire surface of the gasket? Both sides? Thanks

The Colts, Chargers, & Steelers just got an early Christmas present! Belicheck will need to coach his a** off this year, but there is a ton of talent on both sides of the ball-at least that's what I'm hitching my wagon to.

Ahh, the Steelers & the Raiders...two teams that the Pats beat like drums-especially in the Playoffs! -just saying

I use a 30mm, 12 pt., 1/2 drive socket.

...I degreased mine and added some light-duty Loctite to each bolt.

This looks pretty cool-I went to a Camp Jeep once in the Blue Ridge Mountains and that was a good take. CW, how many MJ's typically participate?

Eagle, I'm talking about a padlock with a long shackle-not the type of contraption that mounts to the sterring wheel shaft: The length of the shackle needs to be 3" and the width needs to be 1" to fit around the pedals. I looked at the Grainger page-but no luck. I guess I will need to visit a locksmith shop. This is just cheap security becuase the insurance value I would receive vs. the amount of coin I've dropped into her is HUGE!

This is a great city! If the weather is nice I highly recommend the Chicago River Architecture Tour: http://www.wendellaboats.com/chicago.htm

Many years ago, I had a padlock with a long shackle that would fit snugly arround the brake & clutch pedals. This would make it impossible to engage the clutch pedal without also pulling the brake pedal with it. I can't find one that fits correctly anywhere and I've tried eBay & the big box hardwarwe stores. Does anyone do this? Does anyone have a source?

I removed my bed recently and I worked up from 3/8 socket wrench to 3/8 air gun to plumbers torch to release the 8 bed bolts. 20 years of road grime and salt requires a deep tool box. Once the bed was off, I scraped/sanded the frame and painted on POR-15. At some point, I'll get off my lazy a** and post the pictures.

BLHTAZ, did you skim coat the gasket with rtv or just install as is?

Isn't Bruce saying in the first sentence that his musuem has the truck, but it is not on display and he doesn't have any additional info on it? Perhaps if they create a new exhibition titled 'The trucks of Jeep", they will roll it out.

No, could you see the cracks on the connection at the time?

The kick in the pants is that I had the tank out last week. A visual inspection shows no cracks that is why I suspect the o-ring. Eagle, could you make a visual on the cracks?

My fuel tank is leaking at the lock ring. I’m sure that the o-ring is the culprit but the removal instructions below recommend replacing the inlet filter. Can someone suggest a supplier for both the o-ring & the inlet filter? Would the Jeep dealer still have these parts?

Born & raised in Boston and currently live about 30 miles outside the city now! This is a great time of year to visit. Per usual, Eagle is right-on with his suggestions. I would strongly recommend the Duck Boat tour & the USS Constitution museum. I think Faneuil Hall is overrated, but to each his own. If you were a fan of the TV show Cheers, the bar that inspired the show is located near the Boston Common. It’s called the Bull and Finch Pub. Legal Seafood is very good but a little stuffy. The Barking Crab on Sleeper Street is a lively place located right on the waterfront and is accessible by train. You MUST visit the North End for dinner-a great scene at night and loaded with excellent Italian restaurants and pastry shops. Lastly, Fenway Park offers a behind-the-scene tour that is pretty cool. Let me know what your interests are and I will give you more suggestions.

I have the factory step bumper with the two licence plate lamps. Does anyone know what type bulbs are required? I swapped-out beds recently and couldn't figure-out the black & blue wires that run to them and want to be sure I'm using the correct bulbs for testing-hate to have the wires run correctly but not know because I'm using the wrong type bulbs. I have the wiring diagram-just want to confirm bulbs. Thanks, Rob