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CWLONGSHOT

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Everything posted by CWLONGSHOT

  1. 3M makes it its called weather stripping adhesive. :roll: Catchy name, !! Its a red and white tube, not cheap either. IIRC it was like 10-12 bucks for the tube. Its snot yellow and sticky as all get out!! CW
  2. Mitch, What gears are you running? If 3:55 I could hook you up with a spare turdy-five non "C" Clip for a good price. New brakes and LOCK-RITE excellent condition. Was in mine before D44 swap. Go to PM and LMK. CW
  3. Like mud? Check out these guys.. THEY LIKE MUD!!! http://www.gotmud4x4.com/ CW
  4. YUP... :cry: Thinking one thing typing another... :oops: My bad. XJ springs tend to be very flat and they are spring over. MJ's tend to have MORE arch and they are spring under. I have a set of RE long AAL's for a XJ in 3" lift flavor. I am hoping to add them to my Rusty's 4" pack and get some "haul ability" from that bed of mine... The Rusty's pack doesn't have any kind of overload leaf at the bottom. Not complaining, it flexes VERY well and wasn't designed for carrying weight. CW
  5. Jack up the truck so the front wheel (s) is about 3-4" off the ground. Get a piece of pipe or strong board. Something like that is at least 4" long. Insert it between the ground and your tire and try to lift the truck. There shouldn't be any movement. If the ball joints are bad you will likely get a "clunk". Repeat on the opposite side. They CAN BE a bugger to change. Not really hard, but there are a number of pitfalls along the way if your not experienced with the job. CW
  6. Pete and Eagle are giving it to you straight. Longer is better! :D ;) Think about it a bit if everything is the same longer allows for more leverage to be applied to the leaf, so it moves easier right? Short would get less and be harder to move, get it? Also if its IS a XJ AAL its not going to net you what its advertised to. XJ leafs have more arch and are overall shorter than the MJ. CW
  7. Definitely tighten at ride height. Same goes for leaf springs. Anything that moves with the suspension should get final tightening or torque at ride height. (Tires on the ground sitting normally.) CW
  8. Its usually cheap/free with the purchase of a better quality unit... I dd this with the wifes KJ. Mine was free with a 170$ Alpine head unit. I just had to pay for the install kit, $55 I think. CW
  9. :cheers: You just did my friend, you just did. WELCOME to the "family"!! :cheers: CW
  10. Dude, Your selling your self short!! YOU are part of the success here, just like ALL the others. Every post that helps another guy out reinforces the camaraderie and congeniality that freely flows here! I say we all deserve the smack on the back and we all owe Pete a big Kudos's DUDE!!! CW
  11. my truck is beaten to the end of the earth and they are still there with no cracks now on my Chevy they lasted 2 runs and went in the trash Still no cracks huh....you are probably the only one!!! :roll: :eek: :D Mine got busted on the TH the very first trip in the woods. Don't get me wrong, they have the nicest looking flair going, but NOT wheeler friendly!!! CW
  12. Blow off the area surrounding the injectors. Otherwise that junk will end up in your engine when you remove the old ones. Mark the numbers of the injector wires. Have a small "pick" tool handy for the wire clip that holds the electrical connection to the injector. The same pic or an 90 degree angled pick is also handy to get the clips off the fuel rail. I LOVE one of those magnetic parts tray for this job. Keeps you from loosing all the little clips and pins!!! Good luck, Its not a hard job and should be able to finish it with in a couple hours your first time. I did both my neighbors in about a hour with a Lil beer break in between. :roll: :D CW
  13. Just a note... many of the drum brake 8.8's where not 31SPL.... Brake lines are a non issue. They screw into the brake hose on one end and the wheel cylinder on the other. The thread is pretty much universal for American cars. CW
  14. Three words... MARVEL MYSTERY OIL!!! Squirt in each spark plug hole and give it some time.... :D :D CW
  15. clubprotege wasn't as bad... but my complaint is about mazda323performance.com. http://mazda323performance.com/forum/index.php?f=74 Not a friendly feel at all, very little participation no "family" feel at all. I have at least three open threads with no responces for days and days.... CW
  16. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=180 About halfway down this link is what a number of us use for interior lights. they fit well provide adequate light and are a pretty easy project! CW
  17. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=150 About half way down the posted thread is where I show the start on my front bumper. CW
  18. Guys we all deserve a big pat on the back. Especially Pete for providing us the platform to talk and shoot the $#!& here. I recently bought a little Mazda 323 for gas mileage back and forth to work. Less than a 20 mile round trip. Knowing what we have here, I did a search on a couple search engines and found a couple Mazda spec sties. I thought GREAT!!! Thinking of Comanche club only for Mazda's. WOAH was I ever WRONG!!! My very first post I was flamed BY A ADMINISTRATOR!!!! I gave it right back to him saying something along the lines of "Nice coming form an admin no less..." Then I got a slightly more civilized, albeit lame, answer. But now nothing. Seems no one responds to any of my posts. But you can see from the counters there is some activity from some people at least reading them. I started searches and find that most all new posters get the same treatment, short smart arsed answers. I am SO GLAD none of that nonsense happens here!! We have fun pass on good information. Doesn't matter if your a total no-ob or a seasoned pro. I just wanted to say I am proud to be a part of a great site like this. Cheers fellas, I tip my hat and raise my hand to all of you. CW
  19. Its a row of dimes. But you are correct... them are sum purdy welds. ;) CW
  20. CWLONGSHOT

    ever wish

    I know what you mean. But aint that the reason we build them? Just start over!! Go build the next one as a wheeler but not as capable to better test your DRIVING skills !! :roll: ;) CW
  21. Something that was taught to me years back.. ALWAYS replace the springs and related hardware EVERYTIME you change the shoes. Remember they are subjected to the heat nd cooling all the time. Springs fail fast in these environment. As you already pointed out, the cost is minimal. Remember the old antage, "Never time to do it right, but ALWAYS time to do it over!" CW
  22. Here ya go!! http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ht=bumpers Common thought.... One thing to remember, XJ/MJs have problems cooling. so the higher a winch is the more it blocks the already small radiator opening... CW
  23. That price is dependent on where you live.. Round here 500 is not awefull as long as its clean with good brakes. First one I bought was 400, second 350 and the last one really clean from an MJ with 3:55's and I paid 500. He was asking 600, told me I could have it for 550... got it for 500. But it was nice with new drums and a BOLT IN!!! CW
  24. Throw a wrench on the bar for acceptable accurate measurement. Dial callipers will be better but everyone doesn't have a set of those. :roll: I have a set of Energy suspension ploy bushings on the front of mine. If you go with Polly, be sure to get yourself some White Lithium grease and liberally apply it between the bar and bushing!! CW
  25. I won't say for sure its your problem now, But I guarantee it will be in the near future!! GET RID OF THAT POSITIVE CABLE!!! Buy yourself a brandy new factory style cable. Unless you are meticulous with die-electric grease it is going to allow moisture in and will quickly corrode, shorting out. When it shorts you will not get enough "juice" to the starter to start the truck. In case you didn't catch my drift.. I hate those type of connectors for everything buy very short term quick fixes. CW
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