CWLONGSHOT

I was going to make a comment about tossing Dwarfs... :roll: But that would be WRONG!! :D Pushing midgets is OK though... :eek: :roll: It was listed at $179.99. But as long as you can use one for nada, go 4 it!! CW

I bought a better electric one @ Home Depot a couple years back. Here is the one I got. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... yID=502376 IIRC, I got mine on sale for a bit more than half that cost. It works GREAT for getting the mud off the Jeeps!! EVERY jeeper should own one!!! CW

OOH yea, GOOD catch!! Mine had this issue... solved it temporarily with a golf tee!! At the DS fender stuck a tee in the vac line and go home to swap it out!! Mine was so bad truck wouldn't even idle!!! CW

I assume you have a pressure washer? Run it with hot/warm water and use your favorite liquid degreaser. It makes Simple Green as well as that Purple power stuff work very well!! CW

Its my understanding that the TB hits the top of the axle end bracket. As if it cannot be lifted up enough to reach its frame side mount. I asked if he had the supplied mount in place. He said he did. He explained, he had the frame on jack stands and a jack under the axle. He lifted the axle up until the jack stands where not touching the frame and there was still no way to get the TB up high enough to attach it to the mount, at the frame end. He asked me if something needed to be done with the axle mount to make it work. I said no, nothing should be necessary. I suggested he post up here. CW

If none of that works, maybe some new Injectors. or take the time to remove, clean and rebuild yours. the ones at the parts store a WAY expensive. But many of us on here have picked up the ones from BLHATZ and mine did a WORLD of good the way the truck idles!! They cost a bit over 100 clams for a set of 6. That's WAY better than the $40 something EACH at the parts store!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: CW

EAGLE, I briefly thought about that as well. I wasnt a big fan of my dark blue color. Unsure, but it sure seemed like it would work!! Give it a try and let us know!! Your turn to be the Guinea pig!! CW

Hows your axle universals? Or maybe your axle disco is not disengaging? CW

I didn't think RE did things like this... They offer 3.5 4.5 and 5.5 springs, Why on earth would they give you a shorter spring and then a spacer to make up for it???? When they make the proper length lifted spring??? All I can figure is that they fowled up with the pieces parts and sent your spacers instead of something else or by complete mistake. Like I said, I would remove the spacers and I'll bet the TB will all of a sudden fit as it should!! CW

Yea, thats what I am hearing now... :roll: OH well.. I am gonna give it at least a week maybe two and let it get hard tthen fix the problems and finish the jambs. Any problems with yours fading or dulling with time and exposure? CW

FYI, I am also at about 6.5 of lift running the STOCK shaft with no altercations. I swapped in the 44 so that made up the difference in length. it was close, but I didn't even need to touch the DS. (Short of new joints. ;0 ) SYE is nice for the extra strength it affords, but it ain't necessary for the MJ's. CW

Its done!! Couple weeks once everything is hardened. I'll tackle the remaining part of the jambs and under the hood. Totaled out at less than $50!!! Love the results!! CW

Well according to the can... I am supposed to spray the clear with in one hour or AFTER 24 hours. I tried it with in an hour... I figured, OK.. Live and learn, no biggie its just a small spot. I can easily fix it... I decided to wait the longer than 24 and shoot it. I sprayed the DS fender and door first night so its closer to 36 hours.. LONG time over the 24 recommended right... I actually spilled my beer throwing the can into the woods all the while uttering obscenity's. SO, NO clear coat for me!! I specifically bought the same brand and kind recommended by Rustoleum. NFG!!!! SO, now I have to strip/sand/re-coat the fender when I tackle the door inner jambs and under the hood. Other than that its done and looks great!! 10 cans this far. Maybe a couple more to bring the grand total to 12 cans. 3.12 per can, + tape, sand paper as well as freezer paper for masking paper makes it a grand total of $49.94. Came out GREAT for a $50 paint job!!! CW

The above statement is not true. Leaf springs flex with engine torque. That's the reason for a slightly downward alignment at static. Also something to ponder, traction bars are made for leaf springs NOT coil springs. that because most coil sprung suspensions use control or trailing arms and there is little to no movement because of engine torque. I think the cardan joint is getting you confused as when your using one it will change the alignment. BUT most of the time its at the output shaft of the tranny or Tcase not at the axle/pumpkin end. So having one or not doesn't change anything at the pumpkin end of the axle. YES very true!! CW

This is correct FOR LEAF SPRUNG SUSPENTIONS. Like our trucks have. As the suspension loads up, it lifts the pumpkin into alignment and off you go. The SYE is only going to allow more articulation with out binding. to tell you the truth, is not going to have much effect on/with the long drive shafts in our trucks. BUT It is STRONGER than the slip yoke, so that a good thing. BTW, You only point the pumpkin directly at the out put for COIL SPRUNG SUSPENTIONS. CW

I have 90% of the cab done and I have used 6 1/2 cans. Mostly one coat. Going to decide on second coat once I finish. So far I don't think I'll need one. Also contimplating a clear coat... Any thoughts? CW

Making progress!! Its DONE!!! CW

Thats alot to ask of a 231.... maybe look into a stouter case? A flopped 300 fits the bill. :brows: CW

Got two more panels shot tonight... NICE shine!!!! CW

Looks good!! You have convinced me, I'm also gonna try it with rattle-cans!! I'm gonna stay blue so's I don't have to change the reg. CW

Man THAT was fast!!! can't answer your question with certainty, but I did check mine before install and I was pretty sure they where the same as factory. That's is your and mine are even from the same MFG!! Mine where made in Canada. CW

Has it really been MAY since I made an up date?? Actually, I have done little in the way of mods as its nearing the end of what I want to do. One big one from two years back was and is still PAINT!! Well, I have begun to remedy that!! ;) Its gonna be a bown and dirty job, a quick sand and a wipe down with solvent and shoot it. I only have three spots that need any more and even they are very small. I decided against removing all trim and flairs, I'll pull the tail lights and spray the door jambs, under the hood and fendertops first. Yesterday I began sanding. Tonight I began masking... but cannot find my paper so all I could do was the taping.... Then I went looking for my silvasol... it was almost empty!! So I only had a bit and I really needed to see how my color looked... SO, I wiped the nose and shot a bit-O-color!! :roll: :D Seems a bit lighter than I wanted.. but it is what it is now.. I think it will look good once its all the same color. One thing for sure...it WILL bebrite!! CW

Mine is wired with 14Ga and fastory wires. (they are amaller) It NEVER even gets WARM..... I haven't checked what it's drawing for amps. But I did check and its running on a 7.5A fuse. I did add a relay and an additional switch so I can decide when it go's on AS WELL AS having it being thermostatically controlled. Dude, I hate to keep repeating myself..... But your fan is FUBAR. CW

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html#arms This gives you close approximations with DB's. But your right there with the Castor numbers. I like 10 but began the get some funky DS angles with any more than that. CW

Happy endings... I LOVE THEM!!! CW