CWLONGSHOT

Hopefully the weather holds out for me to get the floors done in the MJ this weekend... Tonight started out prepping for tomorrow and ended up cleaning and straightening out my tools. OH, I did add a bolt to the top of my swing out gate. Back when I built it I only mounted one clasp at the bottom. I figured it would be plenty as the gate sits on a 1/4" piece of steel on top of the clasp. But I have had a vibe after a bump since building it. Recently its been much worse. I found that the bolts holding the swing out to the bed had loosened. I tightened them up and most of the worst vibes are gone. But there is still some after hitting bigger holes. SO, I figured a additional attachment was in order. With the gate closed, using a 3/16" bit I drilled thru the center of the upright and the gate all at once. Then I came back and with the gate open I drilled that hole out to 3/8". With the correct bit for a 5/16 thread, I drilled the upright out to that size and followed it with a 5/16x16 tap. I ground the back side flat and cleaned off all the paint. Then I threaded the bolt in and added a nut, which I welded in place on the back side of the upright. Then I made up the attachment bolt. I welded a 1" ring to the head and painted the whole shebang black rustoleum. The gate is quite solid now. Tomorrow I put it together and go for a ride to get the plate steel for the floors and will see if I did anything... I also cleaned up the set of vents I picked up on EBay. They are stainless steel, so no corrosion, just some tarnish. CW

I added a second attachment point to my swing out. And cleaned up the hood louvers. More pics and a complete writeup in my build thread.. CW

Lookin good so far... CW

Drive safe and have a great trip!! CW

Got some possible hood vents in the mail today... I like the look, but gotta decide if I'm actually gonna do it. THEN I gotta make some drip pans for them... CW

CK my build thread.. this is what I did! I also have some ideas for fender stiffeners... CW

For now, I cut out the infection, replace with new steel. (Welded in and seam sealed) Then POR-15'd :bowdown: and painted. Maybe bedlinered. As far as replacement carpet, its not likely. I always liked the idea of a vinyl/rubber floor in a pickup. I hit the floor with the wire brush, then wire wheel in the drill and vacuumed everything up. Lastly I wiped everything down with fantastic and a rag. It smells SO much better in the cab!! :cheers: :cheers: CW

I lifted my seats an inch and a half...and found RUST ON MY FLOORS!!! Most cleaned up with a wire wheel, but one spot on the DS is rusted thru and needs new steel welded in!! The pass side cleaned up nicely. but only had surface rust. A bit longer with the wire wheel and then a good rub down with acetone and it will be ready for rust paint. The Drivers side will take a bit more... :shake: :shake: The cure... CW

I found/learned so much with that little hanger I built a while back... I found that the muffler was bad, the pipes where the cat connected was leaking....and was getting dripped on... :???: :???: :???: I found that one of the floor plugs was weeping...only thing was it wasn't and hadn't rained in a number of days.... Over last weekend, I sold my Kayak trailer I built a couple years back. (Doc said NO NO NO to Kayaks) and I spent a couple hours in the commute to drop it off for the guy. I noticed a musty, dank smell. I opened another "tree" and continued along. Well it was hot, really hot and the "tree" didn't cut it. Then I remembered the dripping and put 2+2 together... I had water between the carpet and padding and it was mildew...that also means I likely had rust on my floors!! I pulled my carpets back when I put the racing seats in a couple years back and everything was fine. NOT ANY MORE!!! :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: DISCLAIMER:: Graphic pics of cancer on a MJ... :doh: :help: :( PASS side front is OK Pass side rear is also OK DRIVERS side front is BAD, not awful, but rusted thru anyhow... DRIVERS side rear is OK I didn't have time to delve completely into it tonight. It all started out as a quick seat lift. I wanted to try a bit higher mount. I welded in a 1.5" stock on both sides. Should make a difference. As I sat in the DS I had almost 5" from the top of my head to the ceiling. I felt like I wasn't looking thru the center of the windshield. I got the seat lifts done just before momma called me in. :roll: I got all weekend to tackle the rusty floors... CW

Just be sure to do a FL A a L OR as suggested a full leaf(s) from another spring pack with more arch. As mentioned a shackle alone isn't the best idea for this amount of lift. A JKS 1.5" lifted XJ shackle is a nice replacement to the thin factory shackle. But will offer no additional lift, just a better angle, strength and overall better function of your spring pack. CW

http://www.nwtruckworks.com/centramatic ... ancers.php :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :thumbsup: :shake: :wavey:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2067&p=18387

Where are you located? Maybe your close to a generous member who could lend a hand. If you close enough to me, (Connecticut) I would be happy to help!! (Or show you how its done) CW

I have gone threw a couple since the orig going too. I don't think the after market pumps are very good quality... CW

Auto-meter. They offer both a single and double pod. I believe both are available from Jeggs or Summit and EBay thru Summit. But as posted beware of stock when purchasing. I would just buy directly from Summit, but if you prefer Jeggs should also have it. You are correct, it does fit very well. CW

:cheers: :cheers: GOOD JOB MAN!! :thumbsup: CW

Looks great!! :bowdown: The attention to detail is what sets your build apart to most others!! KUDO's to you!! CW

LOOKS GREAT!! I like the color too!! CW

IIRC the 2.5 4 cyl is TB injection? If so, there are no injectors as on a 4.0L. Someone correct me, I haven't been under the hood of a 4 cyl in some time... Did you mean fuel filter? In any event, retrace your steps and take nothing for granted, remember these things are getting old, sometimes hoses can disintegrate form age and higher under hood temperatures. Someone correct me, I haven't been under the hood of a 4 cyl in some time... CW

Eagle, I am aware of this, based on the limited years this applied to, the equipment required, the ease of complete replacement coupled with the cost associated. I didn't want to "muddy" the water any further confusion. :roll: ;) CW

OK, back up... WHAT did you "fix"? What where you attempting to correct and what where the symptoms. CW

Harper/Eric, Whats your deal bud??? We are here to find information and fix the problems at hand. Why are you piling on the Drama??? A couple of us have told and shown you that your information is wrong. You say you know what a spindle is, yet you quote information form your FSM as if it where gospel even after numerous people have corrected your source. Are you sure of the FSMs application? Also and for future reference, what is the title as its increasingly apparent that this book is wrong and should not be relied upon for information as it applies to the D30 axle. Take a breath, sit back, READ and let this soak in and maybe you will learn a thing or two. 8) As stated, our D30 axle uses UNITIZED hub bearings. These are sealed, NON serviceable units. Tapered bearings do not reside in these axles hubs of this axle. They DO reside in the 2WD beam axle found in 2WD trucks. It's either the wrong FSM for our trucks are a simple mistake from the publisher/printer. That's it, end of story. Any information provided and not needed need simply be ignored, no further comments are required. No one is attacking you, just the incorrect information you have provided. It's simply not accurate, regardless of source. It's no reflection on you unless you continue this tact. We are all here to have a good time and enjoy commonalities with our trucks and daily experiences. Some members have more information to offer than others. Some if it is actually accurate, others...not so much. It doesn't matter what you bring to the table, all are welcome. :cheers: CW

Eric is it still broken? Sure is :( Erik Eric, Did you change out the U Joint? Its very apparent (from your video) that the bearings under the one cap of your front U Joint are completely GONE!! It needs to be replaced. A couple posts back, near the bottom of the first page there are some good links on how and what to do to correct this. As I said, this isn't a hard project. Its something everyone wheeling a jeep should know how to do. Post up if you have problems. CW

285 75Rx16 Coopers on Ruby rims W/1.25 spacers on the front 4.5" BDS springs, RE DBs with RE lowers and JKS upper short arms. 4.5" MT Motion pack out back with a 7.5" shackle. I LOVE the front coupled with Bilstein 5150's. The rear is a bit stiff with an empty bed. I have run Rusty's 3.5" coils with spacers, FAR too soft. I have run Rough Country 4" coils with a ACOS and that too was too soft and bottomed too often. I flipped a coin between the 6.5 and the 4.5 BDS springs. Settled on the 4.5's. As I have said many times this is the extent of the lift threshold for our trucks. More lift changes the geometry far too much for the short arms. CW IMHO, if you want more than 4-4.5" of lift defineately go long arms up front and factory lift pack SOA in the back.

WOW!! Thats allot of driving!! Most I ever did was 12hrs with pee stops. Central CT to the upper tip of Maine, St Agatha. Pronounced "Sanaget" by locals... GO GET SLEEP!! CW