CWLONGSHOT

Today I switched out the plywood test spacers I had between the hood and the hinges. They worked well for a test, but compressed with time and where not thick enough to really do anything. I think one inch is the magic number. Then don't forget to remove the gasket at the rear edge. (like I did for a couple weeks. :headpop: :roll: ) I used 1x1x1/16 square stock. Holes drilled at proper spacing with longer (1.5") metric bolts. Its a great, easy way to see if you will benefit form hood louvers/vents. Completely removable and cheap too!! CW

I haven't seen one overcooled. So I would tend to agree... CW

Externally there is no difference in the dimensions of either one. many people have a 2 core and never have a problem. Others still have some issues even with the 3 core... IMHO, if you have a stick the 2 is probably fine. If you have a auto go for the 3 core. CW

I was able to hammer out a bad stud and use a grade 8 nut and bolt in its place. CW

Its been a busy weekend.... First thing today I put the finishing coat on the floor of the MJ. Just after lunch, I put the interior back in and then I jumped on the hood vent install.... I measured and re-measured and found a spot that I liked. I put them as far back and as far "out" from center as I could. Laid down some tape, marked the out lines. I drilled the corners for the saber saw. Then cut them out. A quick trip to Home Depot netted some more Blue spray paint, some clear sealer and a bunch of stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers. then I ran into a small clearance issue... On the DS, the air tube was very close to the front most corner of the vent. On the PS, it was worse... That new temp rad cap is taller then the standard Stant cap and sits about a half inch below the bottom of the hood. I had to trim the bottom of the vent for clearance. This was easy enough, but the drip pans still need clearance. Speaking of drip pans. This is why they are needed... That's the distributor... ...and that is the throttle body with all those sensitive sensors attached to it. :yes: ;) Here is the drip pans I made up. They are from the same sheet of stainless steel I used for the floor repairs. I bent a seam in the middle with a 3/4" rod and a hammer. I purposefully made them wider on one side for better coverage. I have extra material so I could bend a lip on any side if needed. For mounting, I used 3"x10x24 machine screws. I used nylock nuts for the vent mounting and reg nuts on top and bottom for the drip pans. The longer screws are used to keep the pans spaced away from the vents. Allowing hot air out and collecting any water that gets in away from the sensitive electronics. Here they are all done!! I like the look and hope they work as well. When I cut the hole, I couldn't believe the heat that came out of them! So I am hopeful about the outcome! CW

Auto is spot on, always check auto tranny levels with a fully warmed up vehicle, parked sitting level, idling. WIX is THE filter all others are measured by. Go with a WIX. CW

PERSONALLY, I keep "banging bolts" in the trail box for just such purposes. A socket in the axle works well too. Here is a valuable lesson.. ANTI SEIZE IS YOUR FRIEND!! This is the biggest reason I suggest everyone who wheels do this in there drive way. Cause a trashed axle U Joint is common and SUX to do ankle deep in mud and muck. Its MUCH easier if its been recently apart and anti sleaze was used. One other important tip, KEEP THE NUT ON THE AXLE! If you do try a sliding hammer, the is even more important!! Thoroughly clean the surfaces with a wire wheel and follow that with a coat on the threads of the three bolts as well as the round surface that is the press fit into the knuckle. Its not a tough job. This should be the worst of it. Good luck, CW

If its being welded a grade 8 is thicker and harder. making it a much better candidate to being welded. Bepending on the size of the hole/damage it may/could work without welding. But welding it makes for a better/stronger repair... not getting lazy in your "older" age are you my friend?? :wavey: CW

IMHO, the uni body line of jeep vehicles is not well suited to plowing. Sure it will work and the lighter duty service its required. Besides the frame or lack there of, the XJ/MJ has cooling issues when you block or restrict the air flow thru its radiator. Wranglers are much better for small areas like personal drive ways. If you only need it for your own driveway, only used for a couple months and a dozen or so time storms. That's one thing, but I would never base a plowing busines on anything but a full size, SWB truck with a V8 and a full frame. Just my humble opinion. CW

Yup, that is a typo. :( :doh: The 3.7 and 3.8 are very different motors... The libby has a 3.7L. CW

Thanks man!! :cheers: Roger that on the head ache!! I saw some smoke and cleaned more of the seam sealer off away from the heat. I'm certain that's what did you in. I was more lucky, no head aches. But it sure did stink!!! The forecast grounded me from the fishing trip that was sked for today... (Lightning and rain storms and a boat on the sound doesn't make for a safe fishing experience.) :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: SO, I got out there early and threw a top coat over the two coats of POR-15 I did yesterday. I never liked top coating with the same color. You cannot see where you are thin or spots you miss altogether. So I looked threw the paint cabinet and found a can of Rustoleum hammered paint in silver. Its kinda brite, I may re-paint again, either black or blue. But for now, this is what it is. Now, if the rain holds out till it dries enough to bolt the seats back in... CW

There is your answer brother!! Are you near enough to CT? I'll gladly help you out!! CW

I agree, she is drop dead Gorgeous!! GOOD JOB man!! CW

Pete, Libby's are damn good med tow vehicles!! I'm not talking car haulers, but they get a good weight rating. Daimler had just gotten there hands on Chrysler about the time the libby was coming out. They took the plans and added lots of structural members changed trannies and made the truck a much safer and heavier vehicle. The 3.8 is a damn good motor and coupled with the mercedes tranny 231 Tcase sitting in a steel frame, makes for a stout drive-line. I never was a big fan of unit body vehicles until my first XJ proved its durability some 20 years ago. I still will always go for a full framed vehicle for a tow vehicle. I bought my wife a 2004 libby when she was T-boned in a 1999 WJ Limited. (She cut here elbow, but very minor considering the three barrel rolls the vehicle did!!) We liked the WJ, but she liked the "car" feel of the KJ better. I told her it was her choice to make, she would be driving it daily. My XJ is rough for occupants more than the front two and having a MJ, a CJ and a TJ I am not much for people capacity. SO, the libby gets the nod for any people hauling needs. (Out to dinner with another couple) We doth agree the WJ is hands down a better and more comfortable in creature comforts. But the Lil libby is a good one, Just don't put your 200+ lb 6" buddies back there for very long... :roll: :D CW

The tranny mount has a exhaust hanger built in. Its very common for the exhaust part of the tranny mount to sag... resulting in a annoying rattle. Many people have resorted to what yours has. I have one myself. It holds the exhaust up off the X member so there are no more rattles... CW

That's more of a moral issue than a legal one... legally its done and gone, at the very least you are due storage fees that would most definitely surpass the cost of the item in question. Morally, its most likely a serviceman and I can see that you want to do the right thing. (WE ALL owe them a debt of gratitude) I would post up on the forum it was sold on, like you have here looking for the guy. If its no problem, through chain around it and lock it in place and hold it for the guy. If it is an issue, let the posts remain visible for as long as possible and move on. If you want to be above boards and need it gone, put a hundred bucks in an envelope and set t aside and go ahead and resell the topper. IF the guy shows up, hand him the $$. I doubt he would be upset after such a long time... CW

I am fairly certain this would have been answered with certainty with in the first of second post of there was a pic included...just saying. CW

Like I said, yours is pretty noisy, but I'm fairly certain that's all it is. If it stops raining I'll make a video of mine so you can hear. Most engines will do this some are louder then others. If oil is leaking out of the axle tubes. Your axle seals are leaking. I'm going out on a limb here... the P.O. installed the "seal" instead of changing the leaking seal. The plastic one is not a seal by any stretch. Its more of a deflector to keep as much debris out of the axle tubes as possible. BTW, I'm not offended, but nicely suggest you fine a more "friendly" avatar. ;) This is not a "pirate" over here on this side of the fence. Again, just a friendly suggestion. :cheers: CW

HOWDY NEIGHBOR! I removed mine long ago, don't remember exactly where it is, but shouldn't be hard to find...it makes an obnoxious noise. :shake: ;) CW

1) That's noisy oil dripping down thu the engine to the pan... Mine does tis too, just not as noisly as yours. :brows: :shake: 2) That is some kind of a seal someone put in there. Shouldn't matter, it doesn't need to be sealed there are real seals on the sides of the pumpkin in the solid axle and just to the side of the cad in the two piece axles.. 3) That is a factory bushing. Doesn't seal anything. Its just meant to keep debris to a minimum in the axle tubes. CW

YES YES YES. ;) (OR factory units) CW

Fixed the hole in my floor then POR-15'd it!! TODAY, (Sunday) I painted the floor with : It looks good, but is kinda brite... I also decided to further adjust the seats. I am adding some washers to the rear base bolts.. I also found that the factory uses some thick washers at the base of the studs. I'm assuming they are to offset some of the carpets thickness. I removed them, some where not in good shape at all. So I found that some 1/2 washers to better level the floor. My seats have reclining backs. To fit as I have them the y are actually tilted a bit forward. So, I am hoping to get a better feeling lifting the back a bit over 1/2". If this does what I want, I'll make up real spacers. CW

I only had a short time according to the weather man... SO, I got out there early. I began by trimming out the cancer and see how big a hole I actually had to repair. Well it wasn't that bad really.... About 6x11 inches and up about an inch the seam going to the fuse box. Problem is I didn't see that little inch until my welder burned thru... I added a small 2x4" piece welded to the new steel and the floor. The steel is some scrap I have had for some time, its even stainless steel! I trimmed out the basic size. Shaped it to the hole. Then ground back the paint and seam sealer so I got a good weld. And I burned it in. I spaced the welds from one side to the other never more and a 1" bead. After about 45 minutes I had it completely welded in. I couldn't get pretty welded jumping around like I did, but it will suffice... :roll: Then I got underneath and sealed the seams with some Henry 208 sealer for roofing. It not made for cars, but is an incredible sealer from water. I applied it to the seams from the outside and feathered it into the steel. Then shot the whole thing with good rubber undercoating. Lastly, I wire brushed everything again followed that with the vacuum and then a wipe down with acetone and a clean rag. Then a quick coat of POR-15. But mother nature didn't cooperate...not at all. Just after I finished the welding, the sky looked pretty mean.. and I was finished the POR-15 with a umbrella, but the first coat is done!! CW

WELCOME TO THE FOLD!!! CW