CWLONGSHOT

Nope thats me pop!! We are working on the XJ I got for him. Here it is so far: CW

I have herd that a picture is worth a thousand words..... Lets see. Sometimes just jacking up or letting the entire axle droop gets it done. But when thats not cutting it, this little trick works wonders!!! Just FYI, CW

This is a big one- and so is its effect on motorcycle cops. It's a close second to flicking a cigarette out the sunroff and having it bounce off the cop's chest. A short time back this very thing happened to me!! I was out in the TJ and some foolish person did just this...hand out door...flick goes the cig...up and over and almost in my wifes lap, still lit! Well, wanna piss me off quick...this did it. Now, I am not a small person, I can be rather intimidating and I am now pissed. I pull up behind driver at a stop light, get out and prepare for a confrontation with said driver....only as I walk up, I see its a young girl with a couple friends in the car. So I clam down a notch as I hand the butt back to her. Calmly stating " You dropped this back a ways and I cought in for you...IN THE FRONT SEAT OF MY JEEP. Please use your ash tray next time." They all looked at me in stunned silence. Then offered MANY opologies and promices not to do this again. Followed by a have a nice day pleasentries. CW

I had some thinner stuff...but it just didnt look up to the rask..... The ones I have on my TJ are 3/16'' so I went with that. I was also concerned about the weight. But figured, if I was going with a big honkin' bumper I would have gone thinner. But this shouldn't be alot more than what you see here.... CW

Well.....How did things go??? CW I swapped some today myself!! My pops project XJ had some obnoxious vides and banging when hitting the brakes and turning. It was the bushings in the CA's. They where MAJORLY shot!!! Found a bad bolt as well. This was the one form the top of the axle, UCA bolt. We just purchaced brandy new units form Quadra tec. Spent 64$ on the complete set. Here is a shot of the drivers side all done: We only got the drivers side done. He wanted to play golf today instead of finish. :eek: ;) Hope yours went as easily as ours!! CW

I got a chance to start mocking up for my front bumper today. I'm using 2"x3"x13/16" steel. I am building it off my DETOURS winch mount. I started with a short piece then attached a 15" piece at an angle rearwards. Then I chopped that at an angle and ran it straight back, parallel to the body lines. At the end, I chopped it at a 45 degree angle for looks and better tire clearance. Then I capped the ends so it appears a solid piece of steel. Here it is all welded up ready for the grinder. I duplicated everything for the drivers side. I needed to chop a bit more from the bottom of my fenders. Here is both sides I am going to grind all the welds so it appears as one piece of steel. Here it is all ground. Ready for the first coats of primer. You can see in the last picture. I am going to cut the steel so it will fit up perfectly level with the back bone mount. Then weld everything together. I am also going to all another level so it appears thicker. I'm unsure if I'll go to the trouble of another of the same sandwiched together or just something so it appears wider/thicker. Stay tuned....

Generally speaking you allign these. Cam pointing down, Crank pointing up. In other words, point them at each other. What you need to know is if your on a compression stroke and which piston is at TDC. I would pick up a manuel and read thouroughly. CW

$60 bucks to press out bushings!!!! :eek: Fawk that!!!! You go hosed BIG time!! :cry: :cry: :cry: The bushings I recomended above where about $8 and once I got the right combo of sockets and my vice about 5-10 mins work each end, and I was done!! That was with glued in bushings!!!! Pressing back in was a C clamp, shot of white lithium grease and 10-15 seconds!!! There are different sized bushings, generally 5/8" "hourglass" is the right size. Sorry for you difficulties...I really feel for ya!! CW

Generally speaking thats where they should come out the easiest. Least amount of "pull" and aligning up problems. Beware if you need to "thread" a bolt out with a wrench/wratchet. Its likely it will be ruined. I put the truck up on tall jack stands at the frame rails. At least high enough so the axle will dangle with tires/shocks/track bar/discos off. the jack the axle back up to approximate ride height. Support with additional jack atands and begin work. If you run into problems, jack it back up (axle only) until binding is gone. My MJ was about 15 mins work using this meathod. A friend swapped in some adj LCA's and spent half the day on it untill I arrived and set him up like this. Then it was about an hour to finish the job. Good luck, CW

235 will fit and the gears SHOULD BE 3:55's CW

The sleeves are used for a different application. One that utalizes a bolt to attach the shock. MJ's use a stud and do not need the sleeve. Some press out some don't!!! I bought a couple sets of poly bushings form energy suspention and Rancho. Pressed out the entire bushing and sleeve and reinserted the new one. CW

You will find the least amount of dificulty if you do this at the axles normal operating height. trouble is this dosent give you as much room to work. Your stand up press will be nice for the frame end but will not help on the axle end. Even then you will find the CA wants to bend before it releases the bushing. These can be a real bugger...they can also be a breeze. I hope yours are a breeze!! I have to do this on my pops XJ...I don't even bother anymore...only the axle bushings, thats all I will change. The complete CA is just too cheap to bother with changing them!! I just paid 67$ for a set of four shipped. thats brand new CA's..all of them!! I only need to press in/out the two on the axle. CW

Ditto foe me...I am usually THE guy behind the camers..... Here is a so so pic and a video on my TJ inaction... CW

CW, i'm almost certain i've got more manche parts layin around than you :D Could be, could very well be!! :cheers: ;) CW

Old shocks are out of truck, packaged and ready to ship.... Image Not Found Here is the measurements: Image Not Found Ozard has first dibbs... CW

Man, if I stickied everything people wanted stickied, the first page would be nothing but stickies. :D Someday we'll have a webpage dedicated to important trivia. :cheers: How about another section strictly for this kind of information?? ;) CW

Nice idea and write up!! I have always been amazed at the amount metal will move when heat is applied!!! back when I did my rock rails. I tacked them to the :frame" and went back and welded short maybe 1/2 welds to minamize the warpage. By the time I got to the center, it was away from the frame by almost an inch!!! I was luky, my hilift was able to compress it bact to position and now no one would know. But iuts just amazing how it moves!! GOOD JOB!! CW

Nice score!! At this rate in a couple weeks you garage will look like mine!!!! :eek: :brows: :roll: :D :D :D CW

Dirty is correct. Only the poly spacers JCR supplys don't work for very long. About a year ago, I informed them of these factory J Truck spacers, as well as they had not herd of it before. I showed them what they do and how it might be a good thing to supply or at least offer with there excellent 1ton steering upgrade. There answer was the poly spacers. Trouble is, with out the metal washers protecting the poly it mushes out rather quickly. This is used IN PLACE OF the grease boot comonly found on TRE's. CW

Something I never did back when I installed my POSI LOC. A steel fork. one day last year i had trouble engeging the POSI LOC. After the day it has been sticking when trying to disengege. Whjat happens is the hole where the cable passes thru oblongs ever so slightly. tghe tolerances are so the this little "rocking" causes things to bind. The cure is to install a steel fork in place of the alum alloy fact piece. Its very straight forward. only difficulty was pushing the cable end into the forks hold. its almost a press fit. VERY snug. Works PERFECT now!! I also found that I wasnt getting full engegemant of the splines. i fixed that as well. Here is a couple pics: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Many prople have asked my about the washers I have between my TRE's and knuckles. they are Factory Jeep "J" Series truck parts. Here is the part numbers: You will need four of these, Then, you will need two of these, Assembled they look like this: Here is one about to be installed: Lastly, here it is all done: What these do for you is all but eliminate the rolling of the TRE's when you steer. NO they will not work with the factory TJ, XJ, MJ, sized TRE's. I hope this helps, Maybe Pete can stickie this. :brows: ;) CW

A trick I always use for cork cover gaskets is to tighten with the center of the ratchet, dircetly behind the socket, held in the palm of the hand. No additional leverage, do not touch the "handle". Tighten as tight as you can. OH I like Indain head cement. Follow directions on the bottle. If you lazy, Lock-tite makes a red spray to. CW

I removed mine with a vacuume cleaner!!! :brows: :brows: Just FYI, hope they work well for ya!! CW

The skyjackers are actually pretty good!! I had them for a while on my TJ. If you want better ride got for the gas shocks. I recently bit the bullet and went Bilstein for the ride quality...its AWESOME!! But expensive!! CW

Generally, the diameter of the tire is not whats hurting you its the WIDTH! The 12.5 " width tires are a problem on XJ/MJ's. The 10.5's make life and fitment MUCH easier!!! Go with at least 4.5"BS but no less than 3.75" and a 15X7 rim and you should be fine. (15X8 will work as well but remember the BS is the same.) The wider rim will push the tire out and could become and issue with the sheetmetal upon compression. This is all provided you have proper lift for that DIAMETER tire. ;) CW