CWLONGSHOT

GOOD JOB MAN!! Glad everything is well with you!! CW

Your gonna find mixed opinions conserning Rustys products. Some of the biggest problems: 1) Fitment. Not so good, parts need "adjustment" to get to fit. 2) Welds, many sub standard, with poor penetration. 3) Customer service is spotty at best. Saying an item was shipped when infact it was there sitting on the floor. Personally I avoid them. The only way I would buy from them would be if it was for a product the DO NOT manufacturer. Before you ask, YES I have had all these things happen to me personally. I have also read problems form other people. CW EDIT... I forgot... seems they only hire employees named "RUSTY" as every male there I spoke to was so named! :D :eek:

Now you got me thinkin..... the name of the post is "How do I wire flush mount trailer lights?" Key word TRAILER?!?!?!? Anyhow, my answer is obviously for TRAILER LIGHTS, NOT Truck TAIL lights. BARILLMS, please clarify. CW

Thanks!! I like this ALOT!! My first thought was something like this: This works too: Your right, I DO LIKE THIS!! Image Not Found Sorry for the HIJACK!!

Mine are all most the same as Bic's!! Here is some pics of how I made and mounted it. CW

I can't wait to watch that install!! Now that I have drop brackets, I am not really looking for long arms....BUT...... :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

Try a thinner disc! If your careful a disc works fine. A sawsall also works well, you just need a steep angle. Otherwise it just shakes the tar out of you and the truck!! As far as the rear lower quarters. My pop "altered" mine last wek end on the trail. Untill now, I wasnt going to do anything...but now they are really looking trashy. I may make up something to attach to the bumper and frame and chop the lower 5-6" off. I have seen simular things on Wranglers and Cherokees. CW

This can be a pain!! I have a couple questions first... 1) You say trailer lights, so you already have the plug on the vehicle and your just wiring the trailer...? 2) In the bulb, the stop element IS the turn signal element. As long as the vehicle dosen't have seperate turn signal lights. If it DOES have seperate turn signal lights you are going to need a converter OR an additional set of lights for the trailer. 3) Marker lights usually run off ONE wire. it goes to one light then across to the other. 4) STOP lights run two seperate wires. Because of the signal's I mentioned before. 5) BLACK is NOT always ground like you expect. I have found many use WHITE for the ground. Thats also why the white wire is so short. You just terminate it near the tounge of the trailer. there should have been a schematic for you in the packageing. I would suggest you head back to the retailer (Or do a search on the web)and get a copy of it. CW

Threadjack, but where are you finding these deals?? I cannot seem to find anything that good on the local wheeling board, Pirate, Snort, Craigslist, or the paper's ads. I am lucky enough to have about a doz jeep clubs with active boards with in driving distance to me. Just keep checking youll find some too!! CW

These are THE BOMB!! I have them on my TJ...ZERO problems since install!! CW

The last THREE sets of used tires and rims I bought where about $400!!! One set of 5/35x12.5X15 X-Terrains on BLK steel rims, Nubs still on the tires, less than 500 miles...$300 (I'll abmit this one is a VERY good deal you don't see very often) Second set 5/33x10.5x15 BFG AT's on AR aluminimum rims. About 5000 miles on 4, 5th never toughed pavement... $400 Another set of 5 Tires only this time. GoodYear MT/R's from a stock RUBY, Less than 3000 miles... $250 There ARE deals out there, you don't need to settle. Sell them for a profit. (Just to make it worth your while) Buy a appropriate tire/tire size. CW

They say a picture is worth a thousand words... :D 8) . CW

Most sending units ground thru them selves. You know where/how they mount. ONE wire out to what ever they trigger. The tail light ground is just that a tail light ground. the trouble is as our vehicles get older stuff corrodes and loosens up. Grounds rust off, loosen up and fall apart. The ENTIRE metal part of the vehicle is the neg side of the batt. SO that tail light ground may be a grounding point for any number of things. Your best bet is to remove it, clean it, remove factory end, reattach NEW end, apply die-electric grease and reattach it. also adding extra grounds can do wonders of severely corroded vehicles and can solve any number of "problems" I recently changed all my battery and charging wires. The MJ now runs MUCH smoother. If you skin a wire and its black inside, thats corrosion. Think of it as crap in a water line. enough crap restricts flow. too much crap no flow...get it? CW

The thing that rings the loudest for me is the MPH. Tires begin to need balance at about 45MPH. Your problem starts at 47MPH. I would start with tire balance or a bad tire. There are many many "fixes" for DW. Truth be told it can be a number of things and with older trucks it usually is a combo of slightly loose worn things causing it. One thing is a fact, SOMETHING must cause it. Usually a bump or an out of balance tire. DW doesn't just happen, its caused. From there it can be anything mentioned here. The ONLY way to find it is roll up your sleeves and get to work!! Check and double check EVERYTHING! CW

Here is my MJ on 33X12.5's here it is on 33X10.5's and here it is on 33X9.5's BTW, 40lbs is MAX inflation for seating a bead (STD sized tires), running them at that inflation is not the best idea. 32-35lbs is MAX at MAX payload rating. Something around 25-28 is likely where you should be. Not trying to tell you what to do, you can do that for your self. Just letting you lnow and understand the ramifications of those decisions. CW

When I bought the 9.50's the guy had them mounted on 15X8's and MAN did they look funny!!! 7 or even 6" rims are much preferred!!! 87, another nice point is that you can run FACTORY rims!! WAY cheap!!! Jeepco, you won't have any problem with tire wear resulting from running your 12.5's on a 8" rim. BUT, run them over/under inflated and you DEFINITELY WILL!! If you want ultimate wear. rotate often, keep allignments in check and find the correct inflation based on vehicle weight. A chalk test, across the entire tread works well for me. Most tire places will recommend to you a min of a 9" rim width for a 12.5" tire width. But 9"is NOT a common size at all. Besides, where they came up with it is uncertain. Unless its strictly a "formula" based of width. A 15X8" rim with a 12.5" wide tire is pretty much a standard fare for wheelers the world over. Whowey...I can see where you got you name....40Lbs :eek: :eek: :eek: ... Man, you must BOUNCE down the road!!! ;) You will be wearing the centers out of theose tires!!! CW

2 and 9/16 IIRC. DEFINEATELY buy new UBOLTS!! CW

Well, it sounds like you mind is set regardless of our responses. But I'll add mine anyhow. :D I agree with Pete. He is spot on with his explanations and reasoning. One other thing that wasn't really mentioned was the much increased weight, leverage of such a wide tire/rim combination. You will end up with much accelerated wear on all parts. In case you haven't noticed, I change tire ALLOT. I have had almost every conceivable combo on my MJ with many different heights and fenders trimmed and not trimmed, many different BS combos with different lifts and widths. Check out my mods thread..its in there!! I recently swapped some new to me wheeling tires. 33X9.5's MT's on factory 7" alum rims W/5.25 BS. I was running 33X10.5 AT's on 15X8 AR alum W/3.75 BS. Even thou its MT to AT comparison, the 9.5's run WAY smoother!!! I think its due to the BS and less leverage. I am swapping the 15X8 rims W/3.75 BS with another set of 15X7 W/4" BS. Net result 1.25" LESS sticking out compared to same tire on 8" rim. Minute changes, yes. but I feel them BIG time in the way my MJ drives. Just to reiterate my opinion, 33X12.5 are too wide, for MJ's & XJ's. If you must use them, go with a 8" wide rim with no LESS THAN 4" of BS. If your staying short arm, you are going to need to trim. Good luck, CW

It is wide....unsure what the axles are out of. but its got a D60 up front and a 14bolt in back. Here is three more clips. My favorites. As I saw a number of rigs all better set up than my MJ have great difficulty here. This was also my Pop driving. he has like ten hours behind the wheel in the rocks. I was also spotting for him and he listens well. He was also following a very good experienced driver. So I guess he still had an advantage. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

They hooked up extremely well!! I aired them down to about 12lbs and hit the trails. Wheel base is KING in the ledges!!! Did you see the video clips? Here is one... Image Not Found CW

Got to really wheel the MJ this week end!!! Thats a link to the video clips. login; CWLONGSHOT password: JEEP Here is a couple flex shots. ;) :brows: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Got to put a face to one very cool guy...Derik!! :cheers: Image Not Found Here is my pop enjoyin' a cold one Thursday night when we got there... Image Not Found Here is the diggs: Image Not Found enjoy the video clips... CW

We had a GREAT TIME in the mountains of New Hampshire!! Camping and wheeling for three days!!! Here is a link to my Video clips. Password: JEEP If you have problems once in, look for jeep pics than wheeling pics then field trip 2007. There are two folders, one for pics and one for video clips. Video clips is under jeep pics, videos. Here is a couple flex shots of the MJ. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Sorry for the delay in my responce... I have been away since last Thursday wheeling. :brows: :cheers: ;) I answered the PM and posted up in your other thread on the topic as well. I don't have that roll bar to measure. Sorry man... CW

Hey, I got your PM. I was away since Thursday since last on a camping wheeling trip. FIELD TRIP 2007!! ( :eek: Sorry for the mini hi-jack) I don't have that roll bar to measure...but It sounds like Twistys got you covered anyhow... No factory roll bars, but I can measure some beds if that helps. Mine is LWB and my buddie has a SWB we can measure that as well. CW

Umm? You are talking a LP axle? Explain... Sorry, wrote that a bit too quickly. :oops: I should have started that with, The HI-Pinion offers.... I clarified it a bit: ;)