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CWLONGSHOT

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Everything posted by CWLONGSHOT

  1. You may have damaged the seal when you re-installed/removed the axle shafts. I hope not... OR you just could have some crud between the shaft and the seal. CW
  2. Pretty much, yes. Those I would likely want to get the vehicle up on good stands. With an additional set under the axle just supporting the axles weight not vehicles weight. Look back at the pix in my thread where I did the drop brackets and you'll see what I mean. CW
  3. I have another slider from a MJ in the garage. I need to check what it looks like to be sure...but its yours for the shipping to get it to you if you want it. Its kinda big so could be cost prohibitive. BTW, Mine is tinted as well...just not so much. :roll: :roll: CW
  4. I think a couple are you guys are running or have run the Warn hub conversion. I picked up a new to me D30 for my TJ and found something. I haven't played with any and wondered about this..... And secondly. My Bilsteins in the front of the MJ are valved a bit soft. I think they are 170/60. I am going to swap them for 255/70's and at the same time upgrade to the 5150's. (Front only). Trouble is, they are eye/eye con-fig. So I will need to get the JKS eye to stud conversion for the top. ( I have BPE's for the bottom already) I cannot find a PN for the correct one for the XJ/MJ. All I can find are YJ and TJ Wranglers. Any know for sure if the YJ is the same as the XJ/MJ? This is my belief but would like some conformations. Thanks in advance!! CW
  5. Well now..I am glad you asked!! I think I may have a pic or two some where here... let me look... BTW, She's a D44...LOVE them D's!! :brows: I swapped in Bilsteins 5100's with the DB install a couple months back. I bought them a tad longer so I needed to tip the tops in a bit more than I really wanted to. but they are OK. One oops...I had my pop drill one side as I was tired and my back ached so he drilled it a bit off... I need to get back under there and re-drill one side so they are the same.
  6. DITTO!!! Only I don't use a strap anylonger...the PIPE WRENCH trick is WAY BETTER!!! I recently swapped the uppers in my TJ. It took about 30 mins and that was WITH a beer between the sides!!! CW
  7. Be sure you have TWO NEW washers. don't reuse the old washers and like whowey says...be sure its CLEAN! Inspect the cast hose end. If its cracked you will never get iot to stop. You shouldn't need to tighten the snot out of it either. Those are fine threads and you could strip them if your not careful. I would suggest you just start over. Get new washers and clean everyuthing ad do it again. I'll bet it will be fine this time. CW
  8. Did you look at my thread on MJ MODS section? I have a lot of pics and infor if you want to take the time to read. I made mine with sch 40 POOP pipe. They came out very nice and where not too expensive or hard to do either!! CW
  9. I have them and they seem fine. I don't run them, but keep them just in case. :brows: CW
  10. The bumper came out really good!! Couldn't tell from the build pix. It fits great, nice job!!! I like the side protection as well...I need this!! BTW, how was the run, and where did ya go? OH yea...what no pix.... CW
  11. There are no bar pins on the rear of a Comanche to use BPE's on? Both top and bottom (rear) are stud mounts. Cherokee top rears use a bar pin... but not Comanches. CW
  12. If that your problem.... Here is a cheap & easy lower shock mount. Get two pieces of 2X2X2 "C" steel 1/8" think but to 2" long. Find center and drill a 1/2" hole in the center of the "top". Now head to the parts store and look for the help section. Buy two lower shock mounting studs. Bolt them to your mounts you just made and weld that to your axle tube and you have higher, MUCH better protected lower shock mounts!! Here is some pix... CW
  13. Unlimited, A couple points to ponder. I am glad yours works so well for ya. First off yours is new. New almost always works better. But put some time and miles on it and it will be the same as all other trash locks!!! Secondly 30" tires do not easily get the leverage to defeat the clutches. Move up a couple tire sizes and defeating them becomes easier and easier. Like I said, If it where in and under the Jeep. I would say run it and see how it performs. Since its out and you have the lunchbox in hand. Sell it and buy what you want. CW
  14. Thats good advice!! Idealy your shocks whould be as close to the middle of their travel as posible while sitting static. CW
  15. My buddies boat, 23" Danzi center console with a 225 Yamaha 4stroke. This thing is damn nice and very quiet!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found We fished for Fluke once we limited on Bass. Just out side Millstone power plant. Image Not Found We are going again this afternoon. Just a short trip this time. We are bringing the wives and kids. Going to Fluke and Porgy for the kids and at about 18:00 the tide is right for the Stripers again...so we will go and drift a couple more eels and see what happens. Image Not Found CW CW
  16. If it where me I would sell it and get an open carrier for your lock rite. The factory LS is slightly better for street applications. Not a whole lot better off road than an open carrier. If I had it in and installed all ready to go I wouldn't throw it away...but seeing as you have it out already..... CW
  17. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found We cought seven in about an hour in a half!! GREAT DAY!! Smallest was 38" the biggest 48". BTW, they are all Stripped Bass. There is only one of me... Thats OK cause Pop caught 5. i got to reel in his last one..... Image Not Found CW
  18. Mine sweeps to the max and after engine starts reads correct temp. CW
  19. Nice an clean..GOOD JOB!! I like it!! CW
  20. Dude, No offence meant. But remove the washer res and take it off. Now you have plenty of room. I have done them at least 4 times on my MJ alone!! I mean there is a little harder with the MC there but not that bad. Ratchet wrenches DO make many jobs easier. But not a necessity in this case. If the shock turns or the nut is rusted, use the penetrating oil and grab the shock with vice grips or Twistys pipe wrench Idea is a good one as well. Heck, if the old shocks are bad, Just grab the shaft with vice grips, what do you care if you mark up the shaft on a bad shock?? When you put in the new ones, only tighten enough to compress the bushing to the dia of the steel washer, no more. Good luck, you will get it!! CW
  21. I have always locked the rear first...then if necessary I add a locker to the front. My TJ is locked F&R while my MJ is rear only. I see the arguments for both, I choose the rear. No problems or regrets. One thing against a front locker. If you plan to drive on the street in 4WD. A front only locker will give you some very strange handling. Could be unsafe under certain conditions, as you kinda need to be able to steer. :D Because of my front locker I won't use 4WD for any kind of extended driving. Just to get thur or over something than its right back to 2WD. But I have a selectable with LS when disengaged. BTW, Any D30 will be invisible with a Aussie in it until you send power to it. I ran my TJ's D30 with a Aussie on the street for about a year, no problems or complaints.
  22. That pic I posted is from before I swapped in my front drop brackets and Bilstein shocks at all four corners. The DB's allowed me such additional flex I wanted to take better advantage of it with longer shocks. Longer in the rear was as easy as just tipping them in a bit more. I drilled an additional set of holes and tipped the shocks a bit farther allowing even a longer shock as those where at bit short and limiting my travel. I took measurements using a fork lift. I discoed the shocks and removed the bump stops. Then lifted one rear tire until the other was about to come off the ground and measured both sides. I did the same to the other side and averaged the numbers. This gave me wnhat I needed for shock legnth as well as bump stop heights. CW
  23. My MJ had a set of these when I got it. The fit and quality appears great, and the lift is perfect. YMMV I agree, I have them as well.....RUSTYS don't MAKE THEM!!! CW
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