CWLONGSHOT

True. But, if you find a 27 spline you can always swap the shafts and spiders so it's no big deal. Spot on!!! The 8.25 (Both versions) have a good stout case, larger axle tubes and a beefier housing. When speaking of the 27spl (1.18dia), this basically accounts for the increase in strength. The 29spl (1.21dia) offers even a bit more strength with its larger axle shafts and higher spline counts. Its also the preferred way to go. CW

You find a friend who is a decent welder. Then you get a hardened, "heavy pattern" washer of the correct size (I believe it's 10mm but hopefully someone will either confirm that or correct me) and you have your welder friend weld it to the face of the track bar bracket. EAGLE, Thats a great tip... I'll have to try to remember it!! :razz: :razz: :thwak: ;) CW

:eek: Why would you even consider trashing the FRAME to adapt it to a pair of wasted control arms? That's a pretty backwards approach. The idea is to modify the cheapest, easiest to replace part, not the part that can never be replaced. If you have stock control arms, the bushings are replaceable, and even new stock control arms aren't that expensive from Crown Automotive or Quadratec. If you have aftermarket control arms, must either use stock bushings or rebuildable Johnny joints. IMHO you should fix what's broken, not mess with the frame of the vehicle to avoid buying a $20 part. yea, your right. i get it. I'm fairly new at this wrenching thing, so its good to get put back on track. thanks. so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle? THAT COULD BE YOUR WOBBLE AS WELL!!!! This happens... what you can do is get yourself a grade 8 washer. Grade 8 because it will be thicker and harder than a reg washer. Weld it over the ovaled hole and bolt everything back together. Only, this time....keep that bolt tight!! CW

I actually have two ECTED's. The one I have in my 8.8 is perfect, never even a hick-up. The D44 in my MJ....well if you remember or went back a read. Its been problem mat-tic at best. Even now, I have my doubts if it really locks up. but in its defence, a locked axle is different when comparing a 15" DS with a 40somthing inch one. It definitely has locked up in the past. But I have been off-road in some time and the past couple times I used it I don't really know if it made any difference. the LS it has is quite aggressive. So the difference between its feedback and that of a locked axle are not as immediately apparent. ESP when you remember the 120" WB of the manche. Overall, its done what I expect of it. BUT, Just because of the AWEFUL customer service, I would not in good faith recomend it. CW

LEAD NOT FOLLOW, As we have come to expect from you, this is some nice, clean work!! CW

I personally have no experience with the Maxxis line. Here is what Maxxis says about this tire: http://www.maxxis.com/products/automoti ... sp?id=5485 CW

Yup, That's the kind of info needed!! Based SOLELY on your list of tires, I would have to go with the Goodyear MTR's. Just rotate at every oil change and you will get 25-30,000 from them. That's the best you can hope for from a off-road tire. Feerocknoc is spot on, NO BIAS plys unless its a dedicated off road rig or something damn near it. They will offer you about the beat in off-road performance but at the same time the WORST ON road. I am not talking dry roads, most any tire made will perform well there. Moving past your list, the Pro-Comp MT and BFG MT are consistent TOP PERFORMERS in this on and off road game. I have used them for many hundreds of thousands of miles an half a dozen different rigs with excellent results. 50,000 is the LEAST a set has lasted me. I have the X Terrains on my TJ, its pretty much a off-road only rig. My reason for choosing this tire is SOLELY because of price. i got the set form a local guy who was having a kid and getting out of wheeling for the immediate future. They where BRAND NEW, set of 5. All mounted and balanced. The total cost was cheaper than I could have bought TWO individual tires for!! They are working well, hooking up as expected. Seem to be a bit lacking in side traction but overall I like them. Good luck, CW

Maybe I am the only one who dosen't know.. But I would sure like to know, 1) The terrain you run? 2) The trail ratings, if any. 3) What kind of a driver are you? 4) WHAT do you wheel? 5) More on than off road, % of each. 6) Is this a trail only rig? these things, before I recomend a tire. Unless you just after the coolest looking tires.... rolling around the mall. :roll: :oops: :eek: ;) CW

NO PROBLEM!! LOL :roll: :brows: LOL Happy New Year, CW

4DR doors fit fine.. Basically everything from the doors forward is a direct swap. There are subtle changes for some parts as upgrades happened... 86-89 then 90/91 and 92 on. CW

How many inches do you get from the Chevy shackles? I want 3" of lift for the rear on mine. That will depend on WHAT Chevy shackles you buy.... Shackles only lift one end on the leaf. So you need TWICE the measured amount go get the lift you want. In other words, a 6" longer shackle than stock will net you about 3" of lift. (Not exactly, but damn close) Personally, I do not recommend any more than 1-2" from a shackle alone. Factory shackles are 4.5" eye to eye, so adding 6" to that 4.5" measurement nets you a MONDO LEGNTH shackle. don't DO IT!!! IMHO, ;) CW PS To answer your question... Many I have found are the same legnth as our Comanches. But MUCH beefier!!! You will need to get into DROP SHACKLES to get a longer unit and any lift. Some/many Chevys use an upside down shackle compaired to our Comanches.

don't worry about the front axle indexing.. There is none!! ;) Good job on the pix and write ups!! CW

TPS Throttle Position Sensor This is where your idle is set and other than a vacuume leak the biggest contributor to a flux idle.. CW

Some one just DAYS ago asked for pics of lifted comanches..... There are pics of about ALL heights up two 6". http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7602 Check out the TECH and projects section too... CW

Never tried them on a 2WD, but still think they should fit just fine. the factory BS was about 5 inches same as ours. I have a set on Soft 8's with 5" BS and they fit factory XJ/MJ's just fine... They have been on at least two different jeeps... CW

The BA10 was pretty much done by 1988, so that shouldn't be a worry unless someone swapped in one. You will know right away because the BA10 is a two piece case. You know, like a clam shell with the seam right down the middle. Running front to back. The AX tranny that it should have will not have any seams running front to back. GOOD luck, CW

I REALLY dig the the designer camo "paint" job!! I looked into the vinyl adhesive kits for small to med trucks, almost did it.... the two year life span is what turned me off...... I figured once it started to fade it would look REALLY bad..... CW

XJ stops are more readily available and while different can be easily adapted to work.. ESP EASY if your lifted!! Ck out the link in my sig for what I did... CW

CLICK ON THE LINK IN MY SIGNATURE........ oops, sorry for yelling...damn caps lock... Any way, like most of us, mine rotted as well. i was chopping the fenders for additional clearance anyhow and just cut out rot and moved flairs up. Look thru and you will see what I did... LOTSA stuff there.... CW

POWER... not really any more than are trucks have... Many where straight 6's! What they DO HAVE is WEIGHT and GEARING!!!! PLUS the driver has a bit more experience (Or smarts) than the Bronco driver. Anyone can tie on and mash the pedal... Get it moving and momentum is your friend. Not to mention it didn't appear he was in anywhere near as deep mud as the other two... :roll: :eek: :D CW

ENJOY!! CW

I'd check for ya....but the two axles I have are under a tarp with about a foot of cnow on them.... I wanna say 10mm - 3/8 or maybe 7/16" CW

Mine did a simular thing and it was part of the the EGR system on the drivers fender. EASY TEMP fix is to plug line and see if it runs better at idle. Mine did. I replaced the unit on the fender and my problems went away. CW

10-30 is just fine, Personally I feel oil is cheap insurance and change it every 2500 miles along with the filter. That's for my style of driving, mostly round town. For driving like you just did, if that's the norm, you could stretch it a bit farther. if your worried, change the filter and throw in another quart. CW

http://www.gratitudecampaign.org/fullmovie.php I know we have a more than couple people on here who qualify... THANK YOU, thank you for what your doing and what you have done fore me, my family and our country!!! Merry Christmas, CW