A-man930

Woa wait a minute... I thought 2dr XJ rears worked as well. Good thing I didn't order a set yet :eek:

Lucky for me I'll have to be taking it all apart anyways when its time to do my motor swap, I'll be waiting till then, lol. I priced a flywheel today, not that bad really...

Yes, the "flywheel side" of the disc was labeled. I'll go ahead and get a new flywheel ordered tonight. I'll keep everyone updated.

Ok, after talking to him again, here are the "new" parts he installed: disc slave cyl throwout bearing pilot bearing pressure plate Which leaves me with the flywheel as the most likely source of the problem... but no one has answered my question. Will warpage/hotspots always be visable?! I've heard you'll see blue-ish spots if heat related damage has occoured... this is the only reason I'm not entirely convinced, I was looking at the flywheel just two weeks ago (as was my dad), and there was nothing aparent.

I was wondering the same thing! Turns out he was confused, he had the flywheel resurfaced before he saw that you weren't supposed to. Would this be my problem? Again, I did not see anything wrong with it... Also, he evidently did not replace any of the hydraulics, so that opens those up to question.

So let me get this straight, a little air in the clutch hydrolics wouldn't necessarily cause any ill effects untill the system gets hot? The slave is pretty new and it looked fine... I'll try bleeding it again and see what happens. I got in touch with the previous owner and he said that he had the pressure plate re-surfaced, not replaced. But he says it never gave him trouble, and since I didn't notice anything weird when I had it out, should I really expect anything to be wrong with it?? Warpage or hot spots would be visable right?

I bled the slave pretty thoroughly when I was re-installing everything the other day. Besides, wouldn't air in the system would cause funky-ness all the time, not just when it gets warm?

Eagle I'm with you, I was taught how to drive a manual correctly, I can't stand being in a car with someone who does it wrong. I'm going to ask the previous owner wether the pressure plate and/or flywheel is new or not, hopefully I can narrow it down before I go wasting money. Will you always be able to see "hotspots"? My Dad and I didn't notice anything unusual when we had everything apart.

Yea dude, I've never heard/read anyone talk about this issue before, if this Carolina Clutch place can find you a bearing that'll work then hook me up. I'm mating a '95 XJ 4.0 to my '90 AX-15, so I'm in the same boat as you.

Now that I think about it, it doesn't start acting up until I've been driving for a while, time for hot spots? I'm not really excited about the idea of a new flywheel, a clutch disc would be cheaper (I assume). Is that even a likeley culprit?

What are some possible reasons that my clutch engages just fine sometimes, and other times it's grabby and chatters like crazy?? I know it aint my driving since I've had it for quite a while now. The clutch was replaced before I bought it, and when I had everything out last week it looked fine. Could it just be a cheap kit and the friction material crappy? Or does that matter?

Oh boy, so the HO going in my truck has a different pilot bearing... so what am I supposed to do when I'm hooking it up to my AX-15 that calls for the .5934id bearing??? Is there a retrofit?

So what if I just filled my tranny with NAPA gear oil that says it's replacement for GL-3 GL-4 and GL-5?? I'm going to check out this whole using engine oil thing... as I don't want to wear my new syncros!

Does the rusty's tube have provisions for the small vacuum lines that come out the back of the airbox? The picture doesn't show... if it does then I'm probably going to jump on it

So if the needles don't fall out and it feels normal should I assume that I don't need to replace it?

^^that's about what I'm looking to do...

I ended up pulling both the tranny and transfer case together, it wasn't too bad after all. The guy I had look at the transmission said he didn't see anything catastrophic, just worn-out syncros and one of the 3rd gear shift dogs, he says niether of which are likely causes of the noise I was hearing... I'm having him re-built it anyways. So then I tore into the clutch, nothing there either! The friction material is like new, as are the flywheel and pressure plate, the thrust bearing doesn't feel bad either... I'm at a loss here! I aint about to put it all back in and have the same freakin noise come up again. What now?

subscribing...

I'm a rather new beer drinker, but so far I've come to enjoy Rolling Rock and Coors Light pretty consistantly, BL Lime is on its way to being on that list too, I like it. I haven't had Blue Moon with an orange in a while, nor a Leine's Sunset Wheat, both of which I enjoyed. Heineken is downright gross! Beyond that I haven't really found myself willing to fork out the cash for a drink I might not enjoy, now that I've found my staples...

SOLD (er, bought...) Blhtaz, PM sent.

I've been trying to find the factory rubber coil spring isolators and have only came up with generic replacements. Mine are rotted hardcore. Also I would like to find the dust shields for the front. I called the local Jeep dealer and he quoted me this: Isolators: PN 52000229 ~$19 each Dust shields: PN 52005477 (pass. side) and 52005476 (driver's) ~$29 each :eek: I crossed the PNs at work (NAPA) and came up dry, did the same at O'Reilly, no go. I would like to find these cheaper if at all possible... any suggestions?

Subscribing...

As the title states I have never taken on what most would consider a "project." The most I can claim is the 8.25" swap I did a couple of months ago and pulling the motor thats sitting in my garage right now. Here's my reason for posting: I've been without matching gear ratios since my axle swap, my Renix is going to blow chunks one of these days, and the other morning I developed a wonderful noise from my tranny/clutch (not sure which). So what I'm faced with is at least three seperate "repairs," or one huge undertaking where it gets all done at once. Here are some specific questions pertaining to each part. FRONT I was able to get a killer deal on a HP30 out of an MJ with the CAD and everything (just to keep things as simple as possible). My concern is that it has a moderate surface rust problem and I don't want my spring perches rotting off in a year (plust I'm kinda anal about rust prevention). My Dad thinks its a horrorable idea to sandblast it, I don't think so because I'll be replacing the outer U-joints and hubs anyways and I figured I could cover up everything else well enough to prevent sand from eating the guts alive. Should I really be worried? I mean, don't front ends get plenty of dirt in them anyways? AX-15 We drained the oil on it and the only thing we saw was a tiny little particle of syncro ring, I was kinda hoping for more convincing results :roll: We weren't able to see or feel any parts tumbling around in the bellhousing and you can't see crap from the top of the case (when the shifter's out). What this leaves me with is I'm probably going to have to take this thing out and open it up to really see what the issue is. I've been scarred by my only attempt at separating a transmission from a 4.0 (ended up taking the whole drivetrain out and I had to grind off the head of one measly bolt to get them apart :headpop: ) Are you supposed to be able to remove the transmission from the truck without also removing the engine? ENGINE Finally, I've had this motor sitting in my garage since December and I would really like to have it in my truck before this winter! If it takes major moving/positioning of the motor to get the trans out I'll be majorly tempted to go ahead and tackle swaping that out as well... Stupid idea? Good idea? Good idea only if you've got lots of time/patience/and money? Thanks for the help guys, love this site! Alan

I've heard that YJ front brake hoses offer an extra couple of inches over MJ ones, and according to the books at work they do. My question is in regards to the connections on both sides... We didn't have any in stock for me to compare, but the pictures show them to be different. Anyone done this upgrade? and if there are any other factory hoses that will work let me know, I get a phat discount :brows:

Turned out that the problem was a bad o2 sensor, she runs just as before... nice cheap fix (except for the stupid diagonstic fee :mad: )