87manche

I did both axles and my lift in a weekend. My brother and dad helped. We had air tools.

Wisconsin is over rated Illinois will be a tough game. Tressel always beats michigan, and michigan sucks this year. OSU will win the Big ten.

spec is somewhere in the 200 ft lb range, but that's for a new gear install, and crushing the crush sleeve. Like I said, 180 ft lbs gave me no problems, and the bearings looked good in the rear end when I inspected after the ring gear exploded.

it counts how much oxygen is in the exhaust flow. It converts that into an electrical impulse that the ECU uses to determine the mixture. You can test it with a multimeter, but at 200K it's shot. With an O2 sensor that doesn't register properly the ECU will not get the mixture right. Classis symptoms are a lack of power, poor gas mileage and the fouling of the cat from a rich mixture.

www.madxj.com there's a guide to doing the pinion seals on the D30 and D35 there. Be careful not to cruch the crush sleeve. I did mine, I tightened to 180 ft lbs. It was fine for over a year, until I grenaded the ring and pinion. 34's and a detroit was just too much for the little guy.

should be. When I setup the first D35 I mirrored the angles on the factory one, worked fine with my 3". When I did the 8.8 I did it the "proper" way and mocked it under the Jeep, at ride height. anyway, I think that your conjecture is correct.

looks like earl's performance has the adapter for the block, then you could piece the rest of it together. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... wordSearch

check summit, they had some last I looked. no Idea about an adapter for the 4.0 though.

cv shaft:

I've had it happen twice. it seems that both times the rig simply shifted while we were jacking it up or down, and slipped off the hi lift. I'll never crawl under a rig supported by a hi lift, I always carry some jackstands in the rig.

mock up the axle under the truck, use the angle finder on the machined surface of the housing to get a number. Then use the angle finder to measure the angle on the perches. Take ti to work, make all the angles the same and weld it in. That's what I did with my first axle swap. for reference: http://4xshaft.com/images/2joint_angle.gif that's how it needs to look, and be sure that the yokes are in phase.

I thought they had a funny carrier, but I may be thinking of another D44 incarnation. Anyway, what JP has to say: :roll: '93-Up Isuzu Dana 44 Rear The Dana 44 rear in Isuzu cute utes is 58-inches wide, has six-lug axles, and comes from the factory with disc brakes. You'll need to swap out the weird metric flange for a standard Dana 44 1310 or whatever yoke and cut and weld the spring perches to fit.

31 PSI with the vacuum hose connected, 39 PSI with the vac hose disco'd. I'm pretty sure about those.

true, it always ends up being hijacked with a question or three.

meh, here's a better example. http://showcase.netins.net/web/gtx/70paint.htm it's number 14 on the plymouth, paint code FK3

considered a burnt orange? that's what mine was, and it did look sweet. I really don't have a devent pic before the body was hosed up. Best I can do:

nothing in the gearbox could let that happen, if the seals were shot you just wouldn't have any power assist. The gearbox is mechanically linked to the wheel, so unless the gears are so far worn that it can jump teeth it just can't happen. I'd tend to agree that it sounds like your caster is hosed up. Also, I had an issue with the local alignment shop not knowing what parts to order for my knuckles, as they had screw in inserts. Might want to ask what balljoints were installed, and make sure they're the right ones for your knuckles.

indeed, they're also a whole lot better supported in the aftermarket with gearsets/lockers and such. I vote 8.8. with this: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... p-186.html I did my 8.8 swap for less than $300, one of the best upgrades I ever made.

all AX-15's were 23 spline early (87-mid 90) AW4's were 21 spline. HO models are 23 spline BA-10's were 21 and 23 spline as well.

well, I was under my brothers AW4 rig recently, and his mount looked a whole lot like my mount, and the BA-10 mount is just odd. it stands to reason that the AW4 and the AX-15 would share a mount, as they were both produced by aisin. that's my theory anyway.,

if it doesn indeed have a 4 spd trans it will have 3.55's in the axles. The good news is that it makes finding a matching front axle easy, the bad news is that it's not gonna be terribly fast. I bought a mint 4.0 5 spd 4x4 with buckets and a sunroof for 1500. 1100 sounds a bit steep for a 2.5L 4 spd 2wd rig. I bet it doesn't have powersteering either. and when I say mint, I mean it, mine had just had all the body work done and had recent paint and decent 31's on it.

well, at least you've got a good start with all the radiator stuff you need. I'd drop in the LT1 with a built chevy trans and t case from a chevy truck. Shouldn't be hard to find one in the yard with a blown up motor. of course, if you're racing it, are you going to keep it 4WD? I'd also plan on doing front and rear axle swaps, as the D35 and D30 aren't gonna live terribly long behind that drivetrain. D44's at the minimum, and I'd seriously consider 3/4 ton or larger running gear. an LT1 is a stout motor, and it will break parts if you get happy with the skinn y pedal.

LOL... thanks! I'll go under there with a tape measure and see what I can guesstimate out. you're gonna have axle interference issues. The longbed frame is stretched another few inches betwwen the cab and the rear wheel arch. That's what makes the room for the larger tank. So it's either going to hang out over the axle, or you're going to have to find spce in front of the original shortbed tank for it to fit in.

I believe that the trans mount for the BA-10 is specific to the BA-10, and doesn't interchange with the AX-15. and it's expensive. I also think that you're gonna need one if you want to use that trans. anyway, this is the best I could come up with. http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/prod ... sion_mount I can tell you that my AX-15 mount doesn't look like that one already posted, so I believe that Wildman is correct. I just think that it's the other way round. The mount on the left is for the AW4 and AX-15, and the mount on the right is the one for the BA-10.

mine came with the 1/4 vent windows.