87manche

dodge 60's under the old ambulances and such are about the right width since they were setup for duals. good luck finding one.

IIRC wasn't that a clock from a mercedes or something?

Pssshhh! Couldn't of climbed that rock pile with BFG's. ;) I came from BFG's to the Bighorns. Won't ever go back... :D pssshh, go Bias or go home!

willing to tri the fenders? with 33's you're going to have to cut a bit. Also, a friend had 33x10.5 radial swampers on his TJ and couldn't steer for crap because of the LCA rubbing. I vot 33x10.5's, with some cheapy steel rims and about 4.25" of backspacing.that should let the tires tuck under the fenders, and space them out enough so you can turn again.

as long as you don't get up into the fender the bedsides should not flap around, there's a pinch seam right there where the inside of the box, the wheelhouse and the bedsides are held together. That's all the attachment that my bedsides had, and why I had to fix the pinch seam when I cut my wheelwells too far.

crown vic brakes supposedly work on a D44, never seen, just heard, but I read it on the Internet so it has to be true right? FWIW, you can still find 8.8's cheap, they might just have drum brakes though. Everyone is looking for the disk braked ones, so they just pass right on by the drum brake stuff, but it's still a 31 spline ford 8.8. regarding the D30, it's not THAT bad. Mine has taken some serious skinny pedal abuse with 34" bias ply swampers. A wheel tire combo on my rig probalby weighs in at 90 lbs or so, they're freakin heavy. Mine was from a 97 XJ, so it does have the larger 297X spicer joints in it. The front axle just doesn't see the kinds of loads the rear does when you're climbing stuff. As long as you're not stupid with the skinny pedal when the wheels are turned full lock you can make a D30 work well. Don't bother polishing it with chrome shafts and such though, then you'll really expose the ring gear as the weakness. The popular swap is grand waggy D44's, but then you'll have to do something in the rear that matches the grand wag bolt pattern up front.

when chryco deleted the EGR system they changed the cam durations and overlaps to compensate for emissions. The HO head is a better flowing head. When putting an HO motor in a renix rig I think the best option would be to use the HO manifolds, delete the EGR system, and adapt the renix TPS sensor to the HO throttle body. Otherwise you could make a simple spacer plate to adapt the renix TB mounting pattern to the square pattern on the Ho intake.

another reason the 8.8 is popular, it keeps the same wheel pattern ;)

I had 31x10.5's on the stock suspension, other than control arm rubbing it was fine. 31's on a stock 4wd suspension:

so, I'm on the throne last night. I was reading through a recent issue of JP. They showcased the currie parts MJ. They had a very ingenious way of mounting a rear swaybard, welded it to the shackle mounts and came forward with the arms/links to the axle. Something that you may want to try and find pictures of.

How's the compound? I always imagined them to be extra soft and I know that back in the days, they'd chunk. Any of these things left? I do like soft tires :thumbsup: his didn't chunk, he wheeled them at uwharrie, and a couple other places in NC. I was impressed with the quality, and the wifes XJ might get a pair of those.

this one's the best.

I know that I certainly would have stopped and made usre I knew what was going on when the front end lifted up like that. I'll blame both on that video. The spotter in the beginning, but the driver should have eased up when the front end went into the scary zone, especially in a SWB Jeep. the Mj would have handled that no problem, other than dragging the mid section on the breakover.

http://treadwright.com/Tires-30x9_50R15_A_T-P8.aspx 30x9.5 will fit without issue. maybe need to use an MJ shackle and a .75" spacer up front. my brother had the high-tec muds, they were a good tire, couldn't tell they were retreads, and he had them on his DD for 2 years. Still had good tread when he sold them.

agreed, the primary reason I stayed SUA when I put the 8.8 in is because of the front. It's cheap and easy to SOA the rear, but at the 6" of lift you're gonna get the front becomes expensive. You're looking at drop brackets or long arms at that height to get the ride quality back. Your stock steering will hate life (mine does at 4")

aluminum driveshaft? that would save a few pounds right there, and it would reduce the inertia of the drivetrain. other than that, I can't come up with anything. I know addco makes some big beefy swaybard for the front. Rear, probably take something from a dakota.

your tires are gonna stick out a bit. I run 3.75" of BS with my swampers, and even with a skinny tire they stick out a bit. TJ flares might be needed in your neck of the woods. OH doesn't seem to care, I haven't had fender flares in a year.

that's basically what I did, and ended up about 180 ft lbs.

drill a small (1/8") hole in the flange of the thermostat at the 12 o'clock position. That will let the air bleed out of the block. Then simply fill the coolant bottle with the front end raised.

mine were flopy for a long while, since I broke both of the pinch seams on the wheelwells wheeling. It didn't seem to be a major issue, but my bed was trashed from trees, so I can't say what will happen to nice bedsides.

copper champions, look just fine after 20K miles.

mmmm, not sure that's gonna work. flexible? my worry is that she hits something with the fender and BAM, it's shattered and it's gonna cost $200 to replace.

what are those front flares? going to run 31's on the wife's new XJ on the stock suspension, those would keep it from looking like mine with hacked up fenders.

not had good luck with the brute force joints. the precision auto ones have been holding up. Of course it doesn't seem to matter what I use, they get eaten up pretty quick in my rear driveline. I suspect it's because of some axle wrap when "getting it" another reason to link the rear.

looks to me like you would just put that inline with the heatcore hoses. It should pump through one and then back into the return. but then that would only circuilate water into the thermostat housing. Perhaps there's a plug that you're suppsed to replace the Block coolant drain with, and hook it up there?