Eagle

Now, now ... It's not nice to gloat.

I'm talking about the plugs that go onto the headlights. They use the same headlights. That connector has been standard since the 1940s (or 30s).

Why not use the donor Cherokee headlight harness? If you're swapping the rest of the Cherokee wiring, move the headlight harness, too. The headlight connectors are the same.

XJ What! Doors? Windows? Interior? Engine? Dashboard? Axles? Everything? I don't understand the question. All you need to do to keep the front end original is not replace anything on the front end. So, what do you mean by "front end"? To some folks that means the nose clip -- body work. In this neck of the woods, "front end" generally refers to the front axle and differential.

97+ swap of what?

Yes, the 1988 thru 1990 clusters, the ones that use the nylon push-on connector for the speedo cable. Although I assume the clusters with the electronic speedometers also have the potentiometer on the tach.

You can't adjust it. That's the problem. If you have a 6-cylinder engine you have to use a cluster that came from a 6-cylinder donor vehicle. They did have two different tachometers. The 4-cylinder tachometer was part number 8350-0308. The 6-cylinder tachometer was 8350 0309. Long story" Somewhere in the circuit there's a resistor. Someone who knows what it is and where it is, and who is skilled at doing printed circuit soldering, could replace the resister with one of a different value to change the tach from 4 to 6 cylinders, or from 6 to 4 cylinders. For 97.3 percent of us, that translates to "It's not adjustable." The speedometer also uses a different cable connection.

It's small -- not what you'd want for racing -- but it'll tell you how fast the engine is spinning, and it's cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1A1UL8/ref=psdc_15729791_t3_B01I1A2HLA For a couple of bucks more, this one includes a pedestal so it would be easy to mount to the steering column with a hose clamp: https://www.amazon.com/NCElec-Universal-Backlit-Tachometer-Gasoline/dp/B01M6D0IRJ/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/134-2065384-1246316?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M6D0IRJ&pd_rd_r=b31f37bd-92a4-11e9-8704-597ede040640&pd_rd_w=GGf7t&pd_rd_wg=Pm8ZR&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=RWV5R4M7ZH39AZ5KV947&psc=1&refRID=RWV5R4M7ZH39AZ5KV947

If there's anyone on here from Eastern Tennessee, please contact me by PM. Thank you.

But bonding the neutral and ground bus bars in the panel don't help if some genius ran supplemental ground wires to the metal boxes that didn't originally have them, and then didn't run those ground wires back to the panel. If he grounded them to a water pipe, the water pipe may not be bonded to the electrical system.

You need to get a tachometer, even if it's a cheapie that you strap to the steering column with a big hose clamp.

If that released the parking brakes, then the problem is that the front cable is frozen. Minuit has described the replacement. Good opportunity to lift the carpet and check the floor for rust while you're going the cable replacement.

That could be the problem. In the primary panel, the neutral bus is supposed to be bonded to the grounding bus. It sounds like your problem may be lack of bonding between neutral and ground.

There is no BOCA code. It went away in 1999. For single family houses, every state now uses some edition of the International Residential Code, which allows following either the electrical provisions in the IRC or using the NEC (National Electrical Code). The IRC is available on-line at www.iccsafe.org.

As far as I know, all Romex has a separate neutral (white) and ground (bare) conductor, and is mostly used with plastic outlet boxes. When using Romex with steel boxes, the grounding conductor in the Romex has to connect to the grounding screw on the receptacle and to the box. There's often a grounding screw in the back face of the box fr this purpose. If the house is wired with armored metallic cable ("BX"), then there probably isn't a separate grounding conductor. In older BX cable, the metal sheath itself was the grounding conductor. The armored cable we can buy today has a bonding conductor running in it, but it's still the armored housing itself that's the primary grounding conductor. But the kind of current leakage you are describing sounds like more than a simple grounding issue. It's dangerous, and the circuits involved should be turned off at the circuit breakers until they can be checked and repaired by an electrician. I suspect that you may have a frayed conductor inside the BX cable that's allowing current to escape from the hot (black) wire directly to the metal sheath. That's serious. Don't just hope that the problem will go away when the mortar dries. The problem shouldn't be there when the mortar is damp, so allowing the mortar to dry doesn't do anything to fix the problem.

In the parts diagram, are you referring to part number 12, the "valve"? So I would shim between #22 and #12?

This is something I would like to pursue for my older MJs and the '88 XJ -- which I still have. I never knew there was a simple way to do it. What is this regulator of which you speak? I thought the boost pressure was controlled by the spool valve in the steering box. Where is this regulator and where do you put the shim?

Omega, you have an '88. That was still an AMC vehicle, regardless of whether yours happened to have been built before or after the Chrysler take-over. And AMC was always notorious for over-boosting their power steering. They always had zero road feel. You don't need to modify the system at all, you just need a steering box with a different spool valve in it. There's a world of difference in the steering feedback between my '88 XJ and MJ compared to my 2000 XJ. See if you can pick up a late ZJ box and put that in. (Just remember that the ZJ used a dropped pitman arms, so you'll have to swap your pitman arm onto the "new" box.)

Yeah, I think Arizona is the only place I've encountered those emergency run-off ramps for stopping big rigs that run out of brakes halfway down ...

With all due respect, I don't think that's an accurate statement. I haven't bypassed it on my '88 Cherokee or on either of my '88 Comanches, and I don't recall reading anyone saying they had bypassed it or eliminated it. We often suggest temporarily bypassing it as a diagnostic measure, but that's not the same as just forgetting that it's there.

Did you set it up to work like an MJ, with the brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashers all combined, or did you set it up like the XJ and the ranger, with the turns and hazards separate from the brake lights?

That's impossible. If the axles came from a 4-cylinder, they would be 4.10 gears. On 31-inch tires, with 4.10 gears at 65 MPH in 5th gear the RPMs would be 2292. The deepest gearing you can get for the XJ/MJ with a Dana 30 front axle is 4.88. Even if you had 4.88 gearing, the RPMs at 65 MPH would be only 2728 in 5th gear. And it's highly unlikely that you have 4.88 gears. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html A related question, since you're running larger than stock tires AND replacement axles -- do you know if your speedometer is accurate? Have you checked it against a GPS? If not, you can download an app for your phone that will use GPS to verify your speed. (Too bad they don't have one to replace the tachometer.)

The resistor only controls the lower speeds. If the resistor pack is blown, the fan should operate with the switch in the high speed position.

Oh, I dunno. I'd say it's a truism that big banks look after big banks.

Agreed. Years ago there used to be a guy around here who specialized in carburetors for race cars. His business was called "Mr. Carburetor." I knew of him through having crewed on a stock car. I took one of those carbs to him for a friend. He worked on it and got it running, but he said they were junk and best used as paperweights.