Eagle

WJs are different. I think it's 5 x 5 but I don't remember for certain. I AM certain that it is NOT 5 x 4-1/2

My '88 Comanche did. The warning module finally bought the farm this past winter, which I discovered the day I came out of work and couldn't even get the dash lights to glow. I agree, however, that I've never encountered an MJ with a headlight warning buzzer. My '87 Pioneer doesn't have one and my '88 Chief doesn't. No reason why a Cherokee warning module couldn't be retrofitted, though -- if they are still available.

I was able to buy the rear window gasket from my dealer about a year ago. I dobt there's been a run on them, so the warehouse may still have them.

Some Chebbies are 5x5 and some I think are 5x4-3/4. And they use 7/16" lugs rather than 1/2". Nope, Chebbie rims don't fit Jeeps.

Oops. BIIIG OOOOOPS! My apologies, I didn't notice the location. I don't know what the laws are in Canada, but courtesy toward other drivers would make me think it makes sense to proceed according to those guidelines whether they are law or not. There have been days when I was wishing for a full load of photon torpedoes when I run by a bunch of SUVs (why are they all Exploders?) who insist on running their fog lights even though we haven't had a real fog here for three years -- and the damned fog ligts are aimed wrong and are blinding for on-coming traffic (i.e. -- me).

The factory wiring should be through a relay, but the wire is a bit skinny if your lights are anything more than 55 watts. BUT ... Correction -- you do NOT have "driving" lights from the factory, and you cannot (legally) connect off-road lights to the factory wiring. By federal law, "fog" lights (very low, wide beam with a sharp vertical cut-off) may operate only with the low beams on and MUST turn off automatically when you switch to high beams. They can also operate if only the parking lights are on, but they must still turn off automatically if you turn on the high beam headlights. By federal law, "driving" lights (long, narrow, pencil beam) may operate ONLY with the high beam headlights, and CANNOT operate when the low beams or only the parking lights are on. "Off-road" lights are neither "fog" nor "driving" lights. They are essentially flood lights. I don't know if they are addressed by federal law, but most states do not allow them to be used on pavement at all, because there's no way to aim them so they won't blind on-coming traffic. My state, Connecticut, requires them to be covered when on public roads. Virginia doesn't allow them at all -- when the Liberty model with those roof-mounted off-road lights came out, they had covers for states like Connecticut, and that model was not available in Virginia at all. Bottom line: skip the stock wiring. Run your own, using 12-gauge wire as a minimum for the power. Use a relay, and control the relay from a separate toggle switch. (Don't forget a fuse or circuit breaker.)

Doesn't Quadratec have them? You're referring to the front header panel that holds the grille, right? Or are you looking for the interior dashboard panel?

I stand corrected (on the '88 Eliminator). Now ... about those Pioneer decals. What year(s) were they used? My '87 SWB is a Pioneer, and it doesn't have ANY decals. It has the same plastic "Pioneer" badge on the front fenders that my '88 XJ Pioneer has.

God! I have a snake phobia. Reading that gave me the shivers. And it was NOT funny!

The '88 speedometer didn't use a retaining clip. The upper end of the cable has an integral white nylon fitting that snaps onto the speedo head and is released (as noted above) by squeezing the outer ring to release the locking tabs.

What's your definition of "performance"? Mine is earth-ripping, tall-building-hauling torque. Other people seem for some inexplicable reason to think that an off-road machine NEEDS an engine that produces 17,000 horsepower ... at 8,000 RPM. Define the parameters or you won't get useful responses.

Because you used a FRam filter, of course.

97 thru 2001 for the doors. I don't know if the 97 and newer radiator is the same as a '91

I think I would have let him wade out. A hydrolocked engine is no fun, and if you haven't raised and waterproofed your air intake to the throttle body, you're risking sucking in water when you ford. Especially since the air box has holes in the front and bottom that let water in as easily as out.

It depends on the amount of lift. The Trailmaster lift in my MJ was a 4" lift, which leaves to drop brackets at stock height above the ground when the rest of the truck sits 4" higher. The brackets were always getting hung up on rocks. Once you get about maybe 6" of lift they're not as much in harm's way. As to the durability, those MJ frame gussetts are VERY heavy metal, so they have to help. It also helps if you run control arms with something like heims or Johnny joints allowing some rotation at the ends, so that flex doesn't stanantly transfer a lot of stress into the brackets (and thence to the frame pockets).

You're saying you'll leave the line in place from the "nose" of the combo valve body, disconnect it from the rear proportioning valve, and then connect that end to the hose on the rear axle? Yes, that'll do it. For the plug in the "other" rear outlet at the bottom of the valve body, get the shortest/cheapest 1/2" x 20 bolt you can find. Cut the threaded portion down to 1/4" in length, put an O-ring on it, and you have a plug.

Your chart can't be for 87 and 88, because the Eliminator didn't exist in those years. The first year for the Eliminator was either 90 or 91. The original MJ FSM lists the following for trim levels, indicated by the 8th character of the VIN 7 = X 8 = XL 9 = XLS F = Custom (Metric Ton) G = X (Metric Ton) H = XL (Metric Ton) J = XLS (Metric Ton) Unlike my original XJ FSM, this one is just the original 1985 edition (even though I bought it almost 20 years later). The XK FSM was the '86 book but it included several chapters added to the back of the book to cover some of the 1987 updates (but not all). ---------------- [EDIT]Hmmm ... According to Jp Magazine, the Eliminator debuted in 1989. That's not my recollection, but that's what they say. I found the following link, which I pass along for what it's worth. I don't have enough reference material handy to check it for accuracy. http://www.angelfire.com/ca/TORONTO/VIN/jeep.html

You may have that reversed, I think. Assuming he's still running the fuel pump that bolts to the block and has an arm that rides the camshaft, that's a mechanical fuel pump and there's no way it can or would need to run off the brake booster. However, if the engine produces no vacuum, the brakes wouldn't get much boost. Back in the days of vacuum-operated windshield wipers (probably most of you are at least a generation too young to remember such, but they were still around in 1968), most mechanical fuel pumps had a secondary upper section that was a vacuum pump, for the purpose of pulling vacuum to make the wipers wipe. I suspect he has the brake booster connected to the vacuum pump section of the fuel pump to make the brakes work.

Probably. The MJ does have a reinforcing gusset on the outside of the frame rail at the LCA attachment point, but the brackets still put a lot of stress on that point. A friend of mine had a bracket rip off his XJ in Massachusetts, so the reports are correct, it does happen. Even with the braces, IMHO the drop brackets are not a good solution for a jeep that will actually go off-road. Remember that their whole purpose is to restore stock suspension geometry with a 4" lift. Which means that the trailing ends of the LCAs hang down 4" lower under the frame than stock. Unless your lift is AT LEAST 6" that's a huge problem, because the drop brackets become rock magnets. My '88 shortbed had a Trailmaster lift with drop brackets in when I bought it. I wheeled it like that for a couple of years, and I hated it. Taking it out and putting the truck back to stock was one of my better moves. I think I can go pretty much anywhere without the lift that I could go with the lift, and I can still run 31" tires. IMHO, if you think you need the drop brackets, you probably need a long arm kit.

Correct. That's what I'll be doing on the red wreck.

I paid $500 for one about two years ago. Had to travel about 150 miles (round trip) to get it.

I believe the SporTruck was, indeed, the base model. I have an '88 4-cyl SporTruck. It has the door-mounted, "flag" style sude mirror (driver's door only), black "station wagon" steering wheel, vinyl upholstered bench seat, and rubber floor mat rather than carpet. It's rather ... "basic."

Sway bars? Plural? The MJ only had one sway bar. Are you certain that's what you're talking about?

Back around '88 and '89 I don't know if there was any MJ that was better optioned. The Eliminator didn't come out until 90 or 91, IIRC. The Chief was considered a notch above the Pioneer, although the Chief was oriented to look more off-road(ish) while the Pioneer was oriented more toward "creature comforts". Nonetheless, many of the package items were found in both, such as the gauges and the 3-spoke sport wheel and the carpets.

Pioneer decals? AFAIK my Pioneer is all original, and it doesn't have any decals. I don't think I've ever seen a Pioneer with any decals. Do you have any pictures of what you're looking for?