Eagle

OME is probably THE best stuff out there. You would seriously buy Rough Country rather than OME? I feel faint ...

You can use an HO, but there will be changes necessary. How much of a hassle those represent depends on which way you choose to make the HO work with your non-HO vehicle, and how much you enjoy beating yourself on the head to avoid doing a job the easy way ... which would be to use the correct engine for the vehicle.

The line that normally actuates the rear brakes is the one coming out the "nose" of the front metering block. There is no valve in there, so stop thinking of it that way ... you'll only get yourself in trouble expecting it to do something it doesn't do. The MJ metering block is entirely different from the XJ combination valve. The only way I can think of to test the rear proportioning valve is to drive into some sand or pavement with a light coating of dirt on it, accelerate to maybe 15 or 20 MPH, slam on the brakes, and see if the rears lock. Then disconnect the rod at the rear differential, push the lever on the valve up by the amount dropping the truck bed a couple of inches would move it, zip tie it in place, and repeat. If the proportioning valve is working, there should be a significant increase in rear brake lock-up the second pass.

MJs didn't have rear sway bars. You aren't missing anything. The two lines from your front brake metering block serve different functions. Do NOT mix them up or you will create an unsafe condition. Unless it has been modified, your MJ has a load (or height) sensing proportioning valve in the rear, above the rear differential. The primary brake line to the rear runs from the "nose" of the front metering block to the rear height-sensing (proportioning) valve, and then to the flex hose to the rear axle. Under normal conditions, rear brakes are always fed through this line so the rear brakes are proportioned to the load in the bed. More load --> lower height --> more brakes. However, since when the truck isn't heavily loaded there isn't a lot of power going to the rear brakes, if you lose the front brakes you wouldn't have much reserve safety factor. So they built in a by-pass. That's the line coming out of the bottom of the front metering block. Normally it's blocked. If you lose pressure to the front brakes, a sliding valve in the metering block opens a different port and allows the fluid to go through the other line, which by-passes the rear height-sensing valve and thus provides full braking power to the rear wheels, regardless of how much or how little load is in the bed. There have been several threads discussing why some of us advocate removing the rear proportioning valve and the by-pass line entirely, and setting the truck up so you always have full braking to the rear. That may or may not be a good solution for you. Whatever you do, do NOT change the arrangement of those two lines without understanding what you're doing. You could easily deactivate your rear brakes entirely. This would not be "a good thing."

Rough Country is a good kit? I haven't paid any attention to them recently, but they used to be rated just about equally (bad) with Rusty's stuff.

I haven't used them, but I don't think air bags are the right solution for you. Your camper lives on your truck, if I understood you correctly. Air bags are intended as temporary helper springs. Inflate for towing or a heavy load for the day, deflate for normal running with light or no load. For constant heavy loading, heavy-duty springs are the answer. With the weight of a camper up top, you want as little lift as you need to clear your tires, matched to springs with sufficient capacity to carry the camper at that height. Factory Metric Ton springs provide significantly more carrying capacity with no appreciable lift. Of course, starting out at stock height, if you plunk a constant 1,000-pound load in the bed, you'll have used up half the capacity and there will be some drop. So you probably need some lift, so you can end up at or slightly above stock height with the camper in place. It would help to know how high your front end is. Then you could shoot to match that. In the absence of and hard data, I'm leaning toward that heavy-duty 3-1/2" set of springs Motion Offroad mentioned.

Problem with the Waggy D44 swap is that they used a 6-lug bolt pattern.

I haven't measured, since the front currently doesn't have the flares mounted, but I'll check that before I make any decisions. Thanks. You don't need the flares. You can measure by the "offocial" method: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11693

A salute to all my brothers in arms.

The older transfer case is a 21-spline. Your '91 has 23 splines. That means the input shafts are definitely not the same. I have no idea whether or not things like bearings are interchangeable.

It shouldn't miss, skip, buck, belch or backfire even when "learning." Learning only fine tunes the operation. If you disconnect the battery (say, to replace the battery) the ECU loses its stored "learned" parameters, but it reverts to the factory-coded operating parameters and the vehicle should run fine based on those settings while it adjusts to your driving style and location.

I posted a start. It's in alphabetic order. Feel free to add anything I missed, and I gues Pete or I will stop by periodically to move the additions up into the original post so it can remain alphabetical. (Pete, I hope you don't mind my volunteering you.)

AAL = Add A Leaf (to the spring pack) ABS = Antilock Brake System AFAIK = As Far As I Know AMC 20 = American Motors Model 20 axle (rear, used on the '86 MJ with metric ton suspension) AX-4 = 4-speed manual transmission (early 4-cyl XJ and MJ) AX-5 = 5-speed manual transmission (4-cyl and 2.8L V6 XJ and MJ) AX-15 = 5-speed manual transmission (mid-89 - 1999 XJ and MJ 4.0L) AW4 = Aisin-Warner 4-speed automatic transmission (XJ and MJ w/ 4.0L engine) BA 10/5 = 5- speed manual transmission (87 to mid-89 XJ and MJ 4.0L) BFH = Big Friggin' Hammer BS = Back Spacing CAD = Central Axle Disconnect CPS = Crankshaft Position Sensor CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor D30 = Dana 30 axle (front, in an XJ or MJ) D35 = Dana 35 axle (rear, in an XJ or MJ) D44 = Dana 44 axle (rear, in an XJ or MJ) DD = Daily Driver DS = Drive Shaft DW = Death Wobble ECU = Engine Control Unit (the engine computer on earlier XJs and MJs) EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculating Valve (used with early XJ & MJ engines thru 1990) FSM = Factory Service Manual FWIW = For What It's Worth HO = High Output (post-1990 4.0L motor with new EFI) HP = High Pinion IMHO = In My Honest [Humble] Opinion IMO = In My Opinion IIRC = If I Remember Correctly LCA = Lower Control Arm (part of front suspension) LMAO = Laughing My A$$ Off LP = Low Pinion LSD = Limited Slip Differential (see "Trac-Lok") LWB = Long Wheel Base MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor MJ = Jeep Comanche MPI = Multi-Port Injection NSS = Neutral Safety Switch (automatic transmissions only) OBDI = first generation On-Board Diagnostics (also OBD) OBDII = second generation On-Board Diagnostics O2 Sensor = Oxygen sensor PCM = Powertrain Control Module (the engine computer on newer XJs and MJs) Renix = RENault/bendIX (AMC's source for the ignition & injection system used in the 87 - 90 XJ and MJ ) SOA = Spring Over Axle (rear suspension conversion for MJ, OEM configuration for XJ) SUA = Spring Under Axle (OEM rear suspension configuration for MJ) SWB = Short Wheel Base SYE = Slip Yoke Eliminator TB = Track Bar (part of front suspension/steering system) TBI = Throttle Body Injection TIA = Thanks In Advance TPS = Throttle Position Sensor TRE = Tie Rod End TCU = Transmission Control Unit Trac-Lok = Jeep factory optional limited slip differential UCA = Upper Control Arm (part of front suspension) XJ = Jeep Cherokee ------------------------------------------ Additions from SummerinMaine and BLHTAZ added. Thanks.

They fit.

My gues is they don't get the sleeve all the way over. The disconnect sleeve works basically like a synchronizer in a manual transmission. Most of you who drive standards will probably admit to having bobbled a shift once in awhile and not gotten the synchro fully engaged. When you let up the clutch, the shift handle snaps back to the Neutral gate -- with quite a bit of force. I'm guessing that if the same thing happens inside a CAD, the force of the sleeve popping off the outer half shaft would easily be enough to shatter the cast shift fork. Just be certain you have the sleeve FULLY engaged and there should be no problem.

If the camper is going to live there permanently, Motion's 4-1/2" heavy-duty springs might be the answer, and avoid tinkering with the front. If you're happy with the front, you want to match that height and still be able to carry the camper. Is the front really 4"? The stock height measured from the axle centerline to the flare should be 17-1/2 inches in the front.

Oh my gawd! 3 inch coils with 3 inch spacers? YIKES! That's not a lift kit, that's an accident waiting to happen. Run away!

Then you won't have problems after 4WD -- at least, none that a transfer case drop would fix. The drop only lowers the transfer case, not the motor mounts. A drop helps the rear driveshaft angle, but at the expense of making the front u-joint angle worse by a similar angle. If it ain't broke ... don't fix it.

I guess some people get away with resurfacing, but the FSM specifically says not to. I remember some people from NAXJA who were having clutch problems. Turned out thei had had shops replace the clutch, and the shops had resurfaced the flywheel. Once they replaced the flywheel, their problems disappeared. You might get lucky, but I wouldn't bet the farm. I also wouldn't buy a "reconditioned" flywheel from a parts house. The shop manual specifically says the flywheel has a contour. I don't know what it is, but I suspect it's a very shallow taper rather than a perfectly flat surface. Unless it is reconditioned to replicate that contour, it's no different from taking your own flywheel and running it through a surface grinder.

Unplug the power to the black box under the dash. Write down your mileage, and change the O2 sensor after 75,000 miles.

Long bed or short bed? It makes a difference.

Lift springs are designed for lift, not capacity. To carry a moderately heavy load on a full-time basis, you need a spring with capacity, not arch. Rusty's springs are known to be soft from the git-go, so having his spring re-arched will be a very short-term solution, at best. Let's get to basics: you need capacity, but do you NEED lift? Or would stock height springs that don't sag do the job for you, perhaps even better than lift? I don't think you have the equivalent of a Metric Tonne suspension, because the MT wasn't a lift -- it was more and thicker leaves, for a stock ride height with extra carrying capacity. My plan for creating a faux Metric Tonne is going to use two cut-off XJ main leaves as AALs. I'm going to go with the XJ leaves specifically because they have less built-in arch, and for that reason I hope they won't add much lift, but they'll settle in close to the stock ride height and add capacity. It sounds to me like Motion's heavy-duty 3-1/2" springs would be a good choice for you.

Don't forget the hubs are different, too.

Various methods have been posted here. The simplest seems to be to remove the E-clip from the sfat, slide the shaft over to the engaged position, then reinstall the E-clip on the other side of the fork. Why don't you just do it at home, before you leave for Baja? That way you won't ever have to worry about it.

The factory block heater goes into either the front or the #2 freeze plug hole on the left (driver's side) of the block. Did you buy yours from Jeep? I retrofitted an '88 XJ 4.0L with a new one from the dealer and it went right in with no problems.