Eagle

Your close-up photo is so close-up I can't see what the problem is. You asked about bumper brackets. Are you now saying that the frame "ear" is bent? That's an integral part of the chassis. A good body shop could cut one off a wreck and weld it into yours -- for about five times what the truck is worth. Moe than likely, what you need is a come-along, a couple of bottle jacks, a torch to heat up the metal, and a BFH.

Hmmm... the book (for choosing light bulbs) at both the local NAPA and the Advance Auto both indicate that 1157 and 1156 can be used interchangeably in our vehicles. I don't think the book says they can be used interchangeably. The 1157 is a 2-filament bulb, used for taillights/brakelights in the MJ and for taillights/turn signals in the XJ. The 1156 only has one filament (and one contact on the base) and is used, as noted, for backup lights.

Personally, I'd buy a new bracket from QuadtaTec or Keystone. Only costs like $10 IIRC. Oops. Wrong again. $6.99. Not worth getting dirty for what you might save at a JY http://www.quadratec.com/products/55018_850.htm

In the eastern U.S., Pep Boys carries some rather cheap headliner fabric, and the adhesive. Also, we have a chain of sewing stors called JoAnne Fabrics. They carry good headliner material, and although I haven't seen it in the store my wife goes to, they claim they also have the adhesive. I don't know if JoAnne Fabrics has stores in Canada. Check it out.

Does it start right up again?

Oil pressure and temperature sensor, yes. Dunno about others.

Oh, yeah, most people call it a proportioning valve, or a combination valve, because it looks like the XJ proportioning/combination valve. But in the MJ it doesn't serve any proportioning function, and in so it isn't a proportioning valve and it isn't a combination valve. Most Internet "experts" also call the second brake line to the rear in an MJ a "return" line ... but it isn't. It's an emergency by-pass line. Don't believe everything you read. As a guy I used to work for often said, "Everything you read is true ... unless you have first-hand knowledge of the facts."

geometry pete. mvusse is correct...with the pinion angled up, if you were to lift the transfercase, it will actually change the angles more dramatically. by lowering it so the output is lowered multiple degrees, and raising the pinion a couple degrees, you keep a stock operating angle. I'd just not go this way about things, and I would buy rear springs for a 4.5" lift, and not drop the transfercase. I beat the crap out of my tranny x-member and I'm at 6.5" of lift, going over some fairly mild things too. Well, not exactly. Raising the pinion decreases the u-joint angle at the axle, but doesn't have much effect at the transfer case end. The result is unequal operating angles, and that's what causes vibrations. Lowering the transfer case decreases the u-joint angle at the transfer case end without having much effect on the axle end. The result (hopefully) is that the two u-joints will be back to more or less equal operating angles ... but the angle won't be the same as the stock angle.

I'm not seeing how a larger CCV line could possibly result in less oil being sucked up. Intuitively, it seems to me that would allow more oil to get pulled out of the valve area.

I agree the thing in question is the rear proportioning valve, but it is incorrect to suggest that there are two in an MJ. The front metering block in the MJ provides NO proportioning, all it does is send brake fluid out through the different hard lines. That's why I refer to it as a "metering block" rather than as a "combination valve." The one in an XJ (Cherokee) does include a proportioning function, and is therefore called a "combination valve." The one in the MJ is completely different, even though the shape of the aluminum chunk looks the same on the outside. If you have one that's just hanging, that means the actuating rod isn't connected to the differential, and that means the proportioning valve isn't adjusting for the height of the bed. It also means you have no idea if the proportioning valve is allowing full braking to the rear wheels, or NO braking to the rear wheels, or somewhere in between. It's in situations like this (or, as in mine, when the thing blows out) that I advocate just removing it and running a single line to the rear axle from the front. The plus to that is you always know you have full rear brakes. The negative is that full rear brakes may cause the rears to lock prematurely in a panic situation, so if you go that route -- try the brakes out in some hard stops, and if the rear end gets too squirrely for your comfort level, either replace the rear wheel cylinders with smaller diameter cylinders, or put a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve into the line to the rear.

OME is probably THE best stuff out there. You would seriously buy Rough Country rather than OME? I feel faint ...

You can use an HO, but there will be changes necessary. How much of a hassle those represent depends on which way you choose to make the HO work with your non-HO vehicle, and how much you enjoy beating yourself on the head to avoid doing a job the easy way ... which would be to use the correct engine for the vehicle.

The line that normally actuates the rear brakes is the one coming out the "nose" of the front metering block. There is no valve in there, so stop thinking of it that way ... you'll only get yourself in trouble expecting it to do something it doesn't do. The MJ metering block is entirely different from the XJ combination valve. The only way I can think of to test the rear proportioning valve is to drive into some sand or pavement with a light coating of dirt on it, accelerate to maybe 15 or 20 MPH, slam on the brakes, and see if the rears lock. Then disconnect the rod at the rear differential, push the lever on the valve up by the amount dropping the truck bed a couple of inches would move it, zip tie it in place, and repeat. If the proportioning valve is working, there should be a significant increase in rear brake lock-up the second pass.

MJs didn't have rear sway bars. You aren't missing anything. The two lines from your front brake metering block serve different functions. Do NOT mix them up or you will create an unsafe condition. Unless it has been modified, your MJ has a load (or height) sensing proportioning valve in the rear, above the rear differential. The primary brake line to the rear runs from the "nose" of the front metering block to the rear height-sensing (proportioning) valve, and then to the flex hose to the rear axle. Under normal conditions, rear brakes are always fed through this line so the rear brakes are proportioned to the load in the bed. More load --> lower height --> more brakes. However, since when the truck isn't heavily loaded there isn't a lot of power going to the rear brakes, if you lose the front brakes you wouldn't have much reserve safety factor. So they built in a by-pass. That's the line coming out of the bottom of the front metering block. Normally it's blocked. If you lose pressure to the front brakes, a sliding valve in the metering block opens a different port and allows the fluid to go through the other line, which by-passes the rear height-sensing valve and thus provides full braking power to the rear wheels, regardless of how much or how little load is in the bed. There have been several threads discussing why some of us advocate removing the rear proportioning valve and the by-pass line entirely, and setting the truck up so you always have full braking to the rear. That may or may not be a good solution for you. Whatever you do, do NOT change the arrangement of those two lines without understanding what you're doing. You could easily deactivate your rear brakes entirely. This would not be "a good thing."

Rough Country is a good kit? I haven't paid any attention to them recently, but they used to be rated just about equally (bad) with Rusty's stuff.

I haven't used them, but I don't think air bags are the right solution for you. Your camper lives on your truck, if I understood you correctly. Air bags are intended as temporary helper springs. Inflate for towing or a heavy load for the day, deflate for normal running with light or no load. For constant heavy loading, heavy-duty springs are the answer. With the weight of a camper up top, you want as little lift as you need to clear your tires, matched to springs with sufficient capacity to carry the camper at that height. Factory Metric Ton springs provide significantly more carrying capacity with no appreciable lift. Of course, starting out at stock height, if you plunk a constant 1,000-pound load in the bed, you'll have used up half the capacity and there will be some drop. So you probably need some lift, so you can end up at or slightly above stock height with the camper in place. It would help to know how high your front end is. Then you could shoot to match that. In the absence of and hard data, I'm leaning toward that heavy-duty 3-1/2" set of springs Motion Offroad mentioned.

Problem with the Waggy D44 swap is that they used a 6-lug bolt pattern.

I haven't measured, since the front currently doesn't have the flares mounted, but I'll check that before I make any decisions. Thanks. You don't need the flares. You can measure by the "offocial" method: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11693

A salute to all my brothers in arms.

The older transfer case is a 21-spline. Your '91 has 23 splines. That means the input shafts are definitely not the same. I have no idea whether or not things like bearings are interchangeable.

It shouldn't miss, skip, buck, belch or backfire even when "learning." Learning only fine tunes the operation. If you disconnect the battery (say, to replace the battery) the ECU loses its stored "learned" parameters, but it reverts to the factory-coded operating parameters and the vehicle should run fine based on those settings while it adjusts to your driving style and location.

I posted a start. It's in alphabetic order. Feel free to add anything I missed, and I gues Pete or I will stop by periodically to move the additions up into the original post so it can remain alphabetical. (Pete, I hope you don't mind my volunteering you.)

AAL = Add A Leaf (to the spring pack) ABS = Antilock Brake System AFAIK = As Far As I Know AMC 20 = American Motors Model 20 axle (rear, used on the '86 MJ with metric ton suspension) AX-4 = 4-speed manual transmission (early 4-cyl XJ and MJ) AX-5 = 5-speed manual transmission (4-cyl and 2.8L V6 XJ and MJ) AX-15 = 5-speed manual transmission (mid-89 - 1999 XJ and MJ 4.0L) AW4 = Aisin-Warner 4-speed automatic transmission (XJ and MJ w/ 4.0L engine) BA 10/5 = 5- speed manual transmission (87 to mid-89 XJ and MJ 4.0L) BFH = Big Friggin' Hammer BS = Back Spacing CAD = Central Axle Disconnect CPS = Crankshaft Position Sensor CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor D30 = Dana 30 axle (front, in an XJ or MJ) D35 = Dana 35 axle (rear, in an XJ or MJ) D44 = Dana 44 axle (rear, in an XJ or MJ) DD = Daily Driver DS = Drive Shaft DW = Death Wobble ECU = Engine Control Unit (the engine computer on earlier XJs and MJs) EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculating Valve (used with early XJ & MJ engines thru 1990) FSM = Factory Service Manual FWIW = For What It's Worth HO = High Output (post-1990 4.0L motor with new EFI) HP = High Pinion IMHO = In My Honest [Humble] Opinion IMO = In My Opinion IIRC = If I Remember Correctly LCA = Lower Control Arm (part of front suspension) LMAO = Laughing My A$$ Off LP = Low Pinion LSD = Limited Slip Differential (see "Trac-Lok") LWB = Long Wheel Base MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor MJ = Jeep Comanche MPI = Multi-Port Injection NSS = Neutral Safety Switch (automatic transmissions only) OBDI = first generation On-Board Diagnostics (also OBD) OBDII = second generation On-Board Diagnostics O2 Sensor = Oxygen sensor PCM = Powertrain Control Module (the engine computer on newer XJs and MJs) Renix = RENault/bendIX (AMC's source for the ignition & injection system used in the 87 - 90 XJ and MJ ) SOA = Spring Over Axle (rear suspension conversion for MJ, OEM configuration for XJ) SUA = Spring Under Axle (OEM rear suspension configuration for MJ) SWB = Short Wheel Base SYE = Slip Yoke Eliminator TB = Track Bar (part of front suspension/steering system) TBI = Throttle Body Injection TIA = Thanks In Advance TPS = Throttle Position Sensor TRE = Tie Rod End TCU = Transmission Control Unit Trac-Lok = Jeep factory optional limited slip differential UCA = Upper Control Arm (part of front suspension) XJ = Jeep Cherokee ------------------------------------------ Additions from SummerinMaine and BLHTAZ added. Thanks.

They fit.

My gues is they don't get the sleeve all the way over. The disconnect sleeve works basically like a synchronizer in a manual transmission. Most of you who drive standards will probably admit to having bobbled a shift once in awhile and not gotten the synchro fully engaged. When you let up the clutch, the shift handle snaps back to the Neutral gate -- with quite a bit of force. I'm guessing that if the same thing happens inside a CAD, the force of the sleeve popping off the outer half shaft would easily be enough to shatter the cast shift fork. Just be certain you have the sleeve FULLY engaged and there should be no problem.