Eagle

There is a potentiometer on the back of the cluster, next to the tachometer. It's a small, round thingie (technical term) with a plus-shaped recess in it for a Phillips screwdriver. I don't remember which way you have to turn it to go from 4 to 6 cylinders or 6 to 4.

If you will be replacing the springs anyway, get new springs for the amount of lift you want and get rid of the extended shackles. Extended shackles are what killed your springs.

Because the XJ uses dedicated amber turn signals in the rear, independent of the brake lights, whereas the MJ has both bulbs on each side doing double duty as brake & turn signal lights. When the same bulbs are doing both jobs, you need a logic module to make a third brake light function properly.

As long as the years are compatible, all you have to do is unplug the wires from the stock gauge cluster, plug them into the new full gauge cluster (should be in the same exact places), and the tach will work fine. Doesn't matter if the donor vehicle has a different engine from yours. As I said earlier, I have an '88 MJ 4-cyl, got a full cluster from an '87 XJ 6-cyl, plugged in the wires, and the tach, speedo, fuel, and volt gauges worked fine. You have to replace the senders for the water temp and oil pressure with senders for gauges (stock senders are for idiot lights). Once you replace those senders, all the gauges will work like they're supposed to. Easy... If the tach came from a vehicle with a different number of cylinders than the truck into which you install it, you have to recalibrate the tach or it'll be off -- by a lot. Think about it -- the tach counts ignition pulses. In a 6-cylinder engine, there are 3 pulses per revolution. For a 4-cylinder, there are two pulses per revolution. Put a 6-cyl tach in a 4-cyl vehicle and the engine has to go around one and a half times (3 pulses) for the tach to register one revolution. Which means your engine is turning 50 percent faster than what the tach reads. (2000 RPM on the tach ==> 3000 RPM at the engine, 4000 RPM at the tach ==> 6000 RPM at the engine.) Recalibrate.

The stock studs don't protrude enough? What's wrong with the tech people? The only threads doing any work ar the threads that engage the threads in the lug nuts. Anything outboard of that is wasted metal. If you have a wheel that loosens up enough that the lug nuts are unscrewing themselves from the studs, that extra length isn't going to help you one bit. Idjits.

31 x 10.50s will fit the Jeep 15 x 7 rims fine. It's the base model 15 x 6 rims that they should not be used on.

WANT!

You don't need a test light to see if you're getting spark, but the engine has to be tirning over (cranking) in order to do that. Is the engine turning when you try to start it, or not?

Eagle, did you ever see the old magazine review of a hump-nose Javelin (71-74), where the axle sheered in half as the reviewer pulled away from a stop light? :eek: The rest of the review didn't go so well after that. :rotfl2: No, I pretty much stopped paying attention after 1970. The newer, bulbous style Javelins were fugly and oversized, with no increase in interior space. Plus they dropped the 2-seat AMX.

My '68 Javelins had the springs under the axle. Also, they had the hub slined to the axle, which is the weak setup that's prone to shear off. The MJ AMC 20 had one-piece axle & hub assemblies. Also, your math is wrong. With 235s, 4.56 gears would turn 2873 RPM at 70 MPH, and 4.10s would turn 2583 RPM.

current: 1986 LB 2wd 2.5L manual base 1987 SB 4wd 4.0L manual Pioneer 1988 SB 2wd 2.5L manual SporTruck 1988 SB 4wd 4.0L manual Chief 1989 LB 2wd 4.0L manual Pioneer Past: 1986 LB 4wd 2.5L manual don't know 1986 LB 4wd 2.5L manual XLS (?) 1987 SB 2wd 4.0L manual don't know

Lift also results in less caster. Positive caster is when a line drawn through the lower and upper ball joints leans back toward the top, negative caster is when that line leans forward at the top. The stock configuration results in around 7 degrees of positive caster (upper ball joint is behind lower ball joint, line leans back at the top). If the caster gets less than 4 or 5 degrees, there is less tendency for the weight of the vehicle on the tires to keep the wheels tracking straight, and to self-cancel wheel shimmy. If wheel shimmy is not cancelled out and can be transmitted from one wheel to the other, you get death wobble. This is why lifts require longer control arms, and why adjustable control arms are better if you want to be able to fine tune your alignment. The Catch-22 is that when you have a big lift, cranking the caster back to 7 degrees or more results in the u-joint angle at the front pinion becoming excessive, which causes rapid wear of the u-joint as well as vibrations. So it becomes a bit of a dance -- you have to try to find the compromise between caster angle and u-joint angle that prevents death wobble while not eating u-joints for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner.

Heims are open and attract dirt, which greatly accelerates wear. They are great for specialized applications such as racing, but not recommended for general duty such as street driving. They also are less than ideal for a veicle that will be running in dirty conditions -- i.e. off road. Racing teams figure on replacing them after every race (or two). For the rest of us, TREs are a better choice.

Hold on ... How can death wobble be worse than before? Are you sure you have DEATH WOBBLE, and not just wheel shimmy? Death wobble is when BOTH front wheels start shaking so violently that you can't steer the vehicle and you can't keep driving because you're out of control, and you have to slow down to almost a complete stop before the shaking goes away. It is named "death wobble" because when it occurs you KNOW you are going to die, right now! If your life didn't flash in front of your eyes and you didn't pee in your pants, it wasn't death wobble.

Two words: WHEEL + BALANCE

Special order? The brakes aren't the same 10" x 2-1/2" that were used with the Dana 44s? AMC was using those brakes all the way back into the 60s, why would they have made the MJ Model 20 different?

To add a half inch with a spring over, I would just stick a 1/2" steel spacer under each leaf. You don't need new shackles or AALs. Keep it simple.

OEM Chrysler, or OEM Jeep? Jeep used the same wheels on the 2WD and 4WD models. Anything that fits one should fit the other. Minivan wheels, though, aren't the same.

He just spent beaucoup bucks replacing the clutch, now you want him to just toss all that? And if the master cylinder is bad, it doesn't matter if he has an internal or external slave, it won't work with either one.

I think you think wrong. Military tires are TERRIBLE for general purpose use, especially on pavement. They may look cool, but as far as serving your purpose(s) ... I don't think so.

Bleed it again. The clutch hydraulics are VERY difficult to bleed.

31x10.50s are no problem on OEM Jeep 15x7 rims, but a 6" rim is too narrow. Yes, you can probably get away with it, but the rim will be pinching the sidewalls in excessively, pulling the shoulders of the tread away from road contact. The only way you'll be able to run with decent tread contact across the width of the tread will be to run at a pressure too low to be safe. As an example, I just looked up the Cooper Discoverer H/T in 31x10.50. The recommended rim width is 7" to 9" and they took their measured specifications using an 8-1/2" rim.

When shifting into 4-HI on the fly, try to have the throttle at "neutral" when shifting. In other words, don't be accelerating and don't be using the engine for strong compression braking.

Just what CWLongshot said. WD-40 is the wrong product. I have had the exact same problem. There is no "linkage" on the throttle body, but there is a bellcrank down below the manifold that can get rusty. That's where mine was getting stuck, and it took a bunch of PB Blaster and a lot of moving it manually through the full range of motion before it freed up.

The '06 has the V6 engine, doesn't it? If I were buying a TJ as a daily driver, I'd be looking for one of the original, 2-door Unlimiteds with the 4.0L engine. For a DD it doesn't need to be a Rubicon, because a DD doesn't need a 4:1 low-range and all the Unlimiteds have the Dana 44 rear axle.