Eagle

I have known two people who bought AGR boxes, several years ago, and they were both massively unhappy with them. One arrived with the over-center and end nut screws grossly out of adjustment. The box was so tight that it was almost impossible to turn -- after connecting the power hoses. The other wandered all over the road after installation. I think AGR is horribly over-priced junk, but that's not first-hand. After the reports, I would never consider buying one. I have Borgeson just a few miles up the road, if I wanted a custom steering box I would go right to them.

You could try a compression fitting. It might not hold up to the pressure, but I think Pete M used one on a brake line once and got away with it, so it's worth a try.

At this point all I have to do is bolt it to the diff. Will having even the 2" in the rear affect the valve? At what point does the amount of lift affect it? ...and on the ECTED subject...am I better off with the LSD? Any lift at all affects it, but if it's not connected now how are you going to know where to attach it? The factory service manual says that any time it is serviced it has to have a new clock spring installed and be calibrated with a special tool. Most dealers tossed the tool years ago, and the replacement spring isn't available anyway. CW is correct regarding the type of proportioning valve found in Cherokees. That compensates for the difference between drum brakes in the rear and discs in the front. The one in the rear of Comanches is different. When a pickup has no load in it, the rear is very light and it's easy to have the rear brakes lock up before the front, causing a spinout. So it's desirable when the truck is empty to limit the amount of braking force to the rear axle. But when the truck is loaded, you want as much braking power as you can get, so just putting small/weak brakes on the back isn't the answer. The rear valve in the Comanche (other trucks use similar devices) regulates the amount of fluid pressure going to the rear brakes on the basis of how much the box settles down closer to the axle. More load = lower ride height = more brakes.

That should work just fine. Using the main leaves from a second set of springs to make AALs is very common with XJs, and typically yields about an inch and a half of lift. I did one several years ago, then drove it from Connecticut to Montana for a former girlfriend. I thought the ride was very comfortable. Back in my autocross and road racing days I made up a set of rear springs for my Javelin by using ALL the leaves from two sets of springs. IIRC the Javelin rear springs were 3-leaf springs, so I ended up with 6 leaves on each side. I cut the tips off each leaf so the lengths were staggered to fall between the ends of the original leaves. The ride was firm but not bone-jarring. And I was running those springs with HUGE Gabriel adjustable truck shocks. Go for it.

Actually I meant the kind that are bolted to the top of the leaf...with an arch and two square u-bolts. They put a concentrated load on two points in the spring pack. They are a GREAT way to break your springs.

Or, "No you didn't. That car on the lift had the slot 2 hours after you were supposed to be here. We'll get to yours as soon as we take care of the people who got here on time. Take a seat in the waiting area if you don't have a ride."

He said he wants a factory look and big off-road flares are not an option. What about YJ or TJ flares?

How does measuring the fuel pressure tell you that it isn't a spark issue? The fuel pressure regulator doesn't control the spark. What exactly is the starting "problem"? Your 1989 is a Renix system. The Renix system requires several revolutions of cranking before it starts, and that's normal. If your "problem" is simply that it doesn't start the instant you turn the key ... that's normal. As to losing pressure while parked, in an older vehicle that's quite possible. The solution is to turn the key to the RUN position and leave it there until the fuel pump stops running (indicating full pressure), then turn the key to START.

Your post is very confusing. How does measuring the fuel pressure tell you that it isn't a spark issue? The fuel pressure regulator doesn't control the spark. What exactly is the starting "problem"? Your 1989 is a Renix system. The Renix system requires several revolutions of cranking before it sarts, and that's normal. If your "problem" is simply that it doesn't start the instant you turn the key ... that's normal. As to losing pressure while parked, in an older vehicle that's quite possible. The solution is to turn the key to the RUN position and leave it there until the fuel pump stops running (indicating full pressure), then turn the key to START.

thank you for replying but the url's are not working so i can't see what your talking about But you can extract the part numbers and search them yourself on NAPA Online -- or call up your local NAPA and price them 7151367 7151366 7151365

You can get replacement boots on the HELP! rack at Auto Zone or Advance Auto. If the TRE itself doesn't feel sloppy, just buy a new rubber seal.

The clutch is dragging. Test: At a stop light or sign (or anywhere), when you feel resistance shifting into first or reverse ... shut off the engine. If it shifts then, your clutch is not releasing fully.

The 4.0L uses a CCV system, not a PCV system. That front hose you see should go into the valve cover, not the crankcase. The front hose is the clean air inlet. The skinny little tube coming out of the rear of the valve cover is the outlet. It goes to the intake manifold, and that's what creates the suction to circulate air through the crankcase to remove fumes. You can buy replacements at NAPA.

Your trackbar must be different than most. Every adjustable trackbar I've seen had a threaded end on the frame side, with a regular TRE in it for the adjustments. Hmmmm... I guess he didn't clarify. I assumed he had the TRE at the cast frame bracket and the adjuster down on the axle. I've never saw one with the adjuster at the TRE. But I'm new to the MJ world, maybe that's how they are built??? Sorry if I misled him. What cast frame bracket? I've never seen a cast frame bracket on an MJ or XJ. AFAIK they are forged. And I, too, have never seen an adjustable track bar with the adjustment at the axle end. They all have a fixed end at the axle and a standard TRE threaded into the upper (frame) end. The TRE IS[/b] the adjuster.

While you're spritzing things with PB Blaster, spray down the sleeve on the drag link. After you center the axle under the truck, your steering wheel is going to be WAY off center and that's adjusted with the sleeve on the drag link.

You put the front wheels ON the ground -- or on a pair of ramps. Have a helper sit in the driver's seat and turn the steering wheel gently. Without a track bar, instead of the road wheels turning, the chassis will shift laterally over the axle.

A friend of mine had the body of his 1949 Hudson street rod stripped by blasting with baking soda. Worked great. It doesn't hurt the metal at all, and it takes off everything you don't want to put paint over. You don't even have to mask the glass -- it's so fine that it actually polishes out old sand pitting in the windshield. The glass will look better after blasting than before.

I have seen only one that sealed to the cab. Most have their own front window and there is no seal to the cab.

Keep in mind that the turn signals and hazard flashers in the XJ and MJ do NOT share the same flasher can. There are two flasher modules on the fuse panel. They interchange, so you can swap them one for t'other as a quick test. If the turn signals work and the hazard flashers don't the wiring is good so it must be a fuse or the flasher module. If neither the turns nor the hazards work ... you have deeper-rooted problems.

Tell me he didn't buy the stroker engine from Clifford Performance ...

Is he running platinum tip spark plugs? The tips can come off, and when they do they tend to break things inside the engine -- like pistons. I won't run platinum plugs. I use only standard NGKs, and they run fine in all my Jeeps.

Death wobble is not caused by a worn track bar. Death wobble is caused by something causing one tire to shake badly (usually tire imbalance) and then that shake gets transmitted to the opposite front wheel. If the opposite front wheel is also marginal in balance, it picks up the shake as a harmonic, and from there the two "feed" on each other in an escalating cycle. I drove my '88 XJ for an entire winter with a track bar so loose I had a full quarter of a turn at the steering wheel that did nothing before I could start changing direction. (Not recommended, but it was a cold, snowy winter and I didn't have any place to change it out that wasn't cold and covered with snow.) I had no death wobble.

The shop I use tried to tell me that, too. It's because they don't carry metric stock, so they go to the next larger SAE size rod. They showed me a 9/16" u-bolt and it looked huge, even held next to the original 14mm MJ u-bolt. I guess it's actually not too far off, but it struck me as overkill and it makes more sense (for me) to standardize on one size.

THat would have to be a 1984 or 1985. It could have 4.56s. A few years ago I had a 1984 XJ Wagoneer, 4-cyl auto. I gave it to a friend in my NAXJA chapter for his daughter, who was about to get her driver's license. He came down to my place to pick it up and I followed him most of the way back to his place to be sure he wasn't going to get stranded. He commented that the tach was showing some crazy RPMs at 55 MPH, so it probably had something like 4.56 gears in it.

There are no bushings in the tie rod ends, or at the upper (frame) end of your track bar.