Eagle

2-1/2" from the header to the catalytic converter, 2-1/2" catalytic converter, necks down to 2-1/4" between the cat and the muffler, 2-1/4" muffler and tailpipe.

No they aren't. In fact, if you even get to see a real doctor, you're ahead of the curve. My wife has been to two doctors over the past year or so: one is a general internist, the other was an orthopaedist for when she broke her wrist. At both offices, she never got to see the doctor with whom she (allegedly) had an appointment. She was seen by PAs (physician's assistants). In the case of the wrist, the PA did everything from reading the x-rays to setting the break to splinting it to all the follow-up appointments. If you ever do get to see a doctor, he/she won't spend any more time with you than minimally necessary. Informed consent? Nope -- they give you a prescription without ever informing you of all those nasty side effects that are mentioned in the television commercials (you know, the minor problems such as "If you take this medication when you aren't completely, totally, 100 percent healthy it might kill you") or asking if you understand the risks and are willing to accept them. But I'll bet when you leave the office you'll be asked to sign a document affirming that the doctor explained all the risks to you. When at a doctor's office, never EVER sign anything without reading every word. Some years ago I went to an outpatient surgery clinic associated with a major hospital for an elective surgery. I was given a paper to sign that the receptionist blandly told me was "just permission to release the information to my insurance company." Well ... that was the first paragraph. There were two pages after that, affirming that the doctor had explained all sorts of things to me (he hadn't); that I had been advised of my options (I hadn't); that I understood the risks involved with general anasthesia (there wasn't supposed to BE any general anesthesia for this procedure); and several other things, NONE of which had taken place but which I was expected to sign a paper affirming that they had taken place. Then they asked me who was driving me home afterward. I said, "I am." "Oh no, you can't drive. You'll be under the influence of the anesthesia for several hours." I explained to the receptionist, then to the intake nurse, then to the anesthesiologist that I had not agreed to anesthesia, that I had not been told it was to be used, and that I had nobody to drive me home even if I was willing to be "put under." They all said to take it up with the surgeon. When he finally showed up, he asked what all the fuss was about. I told him I didn't want anesthesia, he hadn't told me it was necessary (in fact, he had specifically told me in his office the procedure would be done under a local), and that I had driven myself to the hospital and had nobody to pick me up. He copped an attitude and said, "Well, I always do this procedure with general anesthesia, so either you find someone to drive you, take a cab, or we don't do it." "That's easy," I said. "Have a nice day, 'cause we're not doing it." I got dressed and walked out. At the time, my sister worked in a different hospital up-state. She put me in touch with a doctor there in the same specialty. He said he always did that procedure with just a local, so I signed on with him, we did it, I drove myself home, and that was that. Watch out for doctors. They lie.

I know it's metric. Pretty sure it's 10mm but I don't recall the length.

You go back to the 4th post in this thread and look at the link Geonovast provided.

Balance issues aside, I seriously doubt a 4.3L clutch would even fit into the (much) smaller 2.8L bellhousing. The 2.8L only uses a 9" clutch, IIRC.

Synthetic is reported to make a difference in the Jeep trannies, too. BUT ... you have to be sure, especially with an AX-15, to get one that doesn't have sulpher in it as part of the extreme pressure additive pack. I believe Redline and Amsoil are okay in this regard (not sure about Amsoil), but many others are not.

But ... what?

Not unlike a friend of mine. Suggestion: After the Comanche Club tour, you (if you care to become the agent) or some member of the family should join the AMC Owners Club. They hold a big national meet every year, as well as smaller regional meets. As with all car shows, the parts flea market is a major draw. I'm sure they could take those parts there in a rented truck and either sell everything as a collection, or sell things one-by-one and make a lot more money. The downside to selling individual parts is that they'll be difficult to price, and it would be unlikely to sell everything at one show unless the prices were set absurdly low.

Both the BA 10/5 Peugeot) and the AX-15 (Aisin Seiki) transmission, which are the two possible transmissions in your truck, are stubborn shifting into 2nd gear. Since you are 17 and new to manual transmissions, I'm going to guess that you are running the engine up to around 3500 or 4000 RPM and then trying to bang the shift as fast as you can. If I'm right -- stop doing that RIGHT NOW, before you blow the transmission. The Comanches are trucks, not drag race cars. There is a "sweet spot" for making that shift. For the upshift (going from first to second) the natural shift point is between 2000 and 2300 RPM -- for both of those transmissions. And you don't "bang" the shift like Big Daddy Garlits (of drag racing fame). You shift like a little old lady (especially the 1-to-2 shift) and allow the synchronizers to do their job.

Ummm ... he wrote that he has an '88 MJ. It could not have a V6 (unless it was swapped in by an especially masochistic previous owner). An '88 will have (sorry, "should" have) either a 2.5L I-4 or a 4.0L I-6.

I have known two people who bought AGR boxes, several years ago, and they were both massively unhappy with them. One arrived with the over-center and end nut screws grossly out of adjustment. The box was so tight that it was almost impossible to turn -- after connecting the power hoses. The other wandered all over the road after installation. I think AGR is horribly over-priced junk, but that's not first-hand. After the reports, I would never consider buying one. I have Borgeson just a few miles up the road, if I wanted a custom steering box I would go right to them.

You could try a compression fitting. It might not hold up to the pressure, but I think Pete M used one on a brake line once and got away with it, so it's worth a try.

At this point all I have to do is bolt it to the diff. Will having even the 2" in the rear affect the valve? At what point does the amount of lift affect it? ...and on the ECTED subject...am I better off with the LSD? Any lift at all affects it, but if it's not connected now how are you going to know where to attach it? The factory service manual says that any time it is serviced it has to have a new clock spring installed and be calibrated with a special tool. Most dealers tossed the tool years ago, and the replacement spring isn't available anyway. CW is correct regarding the type of proportioning valve found in Cherokees. That compensates for the difference between drum brakes in the rear and discs in the front. The one in the rear of Comanches is different. When a pickup has no load in it, the rear is very light and it's easy to have the rear brakes lock up before the front, causing a spinout. So it's desirable when the truck is empty to limit the amount of braking force to the rear axle. But when the truck is loaded, you want as much braking power as you can get, so just putting small/weak brakes on the back isn't the answer. The rear valve in the Comanche (other trucks use similar devices) regulates the amount of fluid pressure going to the rear brakes on the basis of how much the box settles down closer to the axle. More load = lower ride height = more brakes.

That should work just fine. Using the main leaves from a second set of springs to make AALs is very common with XJs, and typically yields about an inch and a half of lift. I did one several years ago, then drove it from Connecticut to Montana for a former girlfriend. I thought the ride was very comfortable. Back in my autocross and road racing days I made up a set of rear springs for my Javelin by using ALL the leaves from two sets of springs. IIRC the Javelin rear springs were 3-leaf springs, so I ended up with 6 leaves on each side. I cut the tips off each leaf so the lengths were staggered to fall between the ends of the original leaves. The ride was firm but not bone-jarring. And I was running those springs with HUGE Gabriel adjustable truck shocks. Go for it.

Actually I meant the kind that are bolted to the top of the leaf...with an arch and two square u-bolts. They put a concentrated load on two points in the spring pack. They are a GREAT way to break your springs.

Or, "No you didn't. That car on the lift had the slot 2 hours after you were supposed to be here. We'll get to yours as soon as we take care of the people who got here on time. Take a seat in the waiting area if you don't have a ride."

He said he wants a factory look and big off-road flares are not an option. What about YJ or TJ flares?

How does measuring the fuel pressure tell you that it isn't a spark issue? The fuel pressure regulator doesn't control the spark. What exactly is the starting "problem"? Your 1989 is a Renix system. The Renix system requires several revolutions of cranking before it starts, and that's normal. If your "problem" is simply that it doesn't start the instant you turn the key ... that's normal. As to losing pressure while parked, in an older vehicle that's quite possible. The solution is to turn the key to the RUN position and leave it there until the fuel pump stops running (indicating full pressure), then turn the key to START.

Your post is very confusing. How does measuring the fuel pressure tell you that it isn't a spark issue? The fuel pressure regulator doesn't control the spark. What exactly is the starting "problem"? Your 1989 is a Renix system. The Renix system requires several revolutions of cranking before it sarts, and that's normal. If your "problem" is simply that it doesn't start the instant you turn the key ... that's normal. As to losing pressure while parked, in an older vehicle that's quite possible. The solution is to turn the key to the RUN position and leave it there until the fuel pump stops running (indicating full pressure), then turn the key to START.

thank you for replying but the url's are not working so i can't see what your talking about But you can extract the part numbers and search them yourself on NAPA Online -- or call up your local NAPA and price them 7151367 7151366 7151365

You can get replacement boots on the HELP! rack at Auto Zone or Advance Auto. If the TRE itself doesn't feel sloppy, just buy a new rubber seal.

The clutch is dragging. Test: At a stop light or sign (or anywhere), when you feel resistance shifting into first or reverse ... shut off the engine. If it shifts then, your clutch is not releasing fully.

The 4.0L uses a CCV system, not a PCV system. That front hose you see should go into the valve cover, not the crankcase. The front hose is the clean air inlet. The skinny little tube coming out of the rear of the valve cover is the outlet. It goes to the intake manifold, and that's what creates the suction to circulate air through the crankcase to remove fumes. You can buy replacements at NAPA.

Your trackbar must be different than most. Every adjustable trackbar I've seen had a threaded end on the frame side, with a regular TRE in it for the adjustments. Hmmmm... I guess he didn't clarify. I assumed he had the TRE at the cast frame bracket and the adjuster down on the axle. I've never saw one with the adjuster at the TRE. But I'm new to the MJ world, maybe that's how they are built??? Sorry if I misled him. What cast frame bracket? I've never seen a cast frame bracket on an MJ or XJ. AFAIK they are forged. And I, too, have never seen an adjustable track bar with the adjustment at the axle end. They all have a fixed end at the axle and a standard TRE threaded into the upper (frame) end. The TRE IS[/b] the adjuster.

While you're spritzing things with PB Blaster, spray down the sleeve on the drag link. After you center the axle under the truck, your steering wheel is going to be WAY off center and that's adjusted with the sleeve on the drag link.